It "auto" adjusts as the belt wears. So it always stays tight as the belt wears. No need for for manual adjuster. I think it's a great idea but get some of the concerns. 4s are using this year so we should now if there is issues.
NEW Team Idler Clutch
- Thread starter Phizzer
- Start date
It "auto" adjusts as the belt wears. So it always stays tight as the belt wears. No need for for manual adjuster. I think it's a great idea but get some of the concerns. 4s are using this year so we should now if there is issues.
Please refer to the chatter in the above posts.
im trying to picture how it "auto" adjusts. i prolly missed something. if its been holding up on turbo 4s in the mountains, thats pretty solid.
i still have yet to hear any screeching from my 17, and my buddies 17. only 300 miles here tho, tightened deflection once.
Someone can chime in and correct me here, but I believe the way it works is the idler bearing prevents the belt from "engaging" when the belt is in tension. The clutch post is spinning and the outer surface of the idler bearing is static. As the belt wears, the secondary squeezes in on the belt more taking up any slack there may be, hence the "auto adjust." Once the RPM's are high enough for the primary to engage, it grabs the sidewall of the belt and off you go.
Are belt changes more difficult?
I don't believe they got rid of the ability to open the sheaves with the tool on the secondary. I could be wrong, but I don't see how they would have done away with it.
Belt changes just like the 2016/2017 BOSS clutch.
You still have to check belt deflection. was just at dealer today and his takes off at idle once it warms up so he has to add a washer to the secondary to spread it apart just a fuzz and it's perfect. Looks and feel like a sweet setup.
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That would be offset, not deflection.
In this case it would be deflection, the washer goes between the two halves of the secondary, and does the exact same thing the deflection adjuster bolt would on the pre 18 team boss, you can do the same to your pre 18 boss clutch to adjust deflection, and this will stop that screeching noise also, but is a pain in the behind to make on the mountain adjustments unless you wanted to carry an assortment of different thickness shim washers around with you at all times.
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This is not correct. The shims offset the stationary sheave for alignment purposes. It is possible to set deflection with shims between the sheaves, but they would need to be larger. By what you are doing, your alignment is off.
Are the new sleds still running the 083 or 084 belt or have they gone to a different size?
I guess I will look again at it, but I was talking about the washers between the sheaves
There is a 'face' on the jackshaft the alignment washers butt up against, can only go inwards so far. So if you want to use washers for the belt deflection the inner diameter of the washer needs to be large enough to clear that 'face' (ie larger diameter of the jackshaft). The inner sheave is always slightly compressed so you can put a number of alignment washers on and it wont adjust the deflection, you just end up with really out of aligned clutches.
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New belt, slightly shorter then current.
One of the videos shows how tight the belt is. Not much deflection compared to how the current clutches run.
What Chewy said...This washer topic was discussed when guys were having that terrible screeching sound coming from the deflection adjustment bolt on their Team Clutches. When the dealer added washers, did you stick around to see if it made a difference? I would think if he adjusted the offset, it would have made it worse.
Belt is actually longer by a bit. Crank must be further away. Yes the belt rides higher in the secondary. Trying to figure out a spare belt for ours for this weekend.
