I
I always ran mine so the track barely turned when narm and lifted off the ground
So who eles is already having belt problems
- Thread starter Going West
- Start date
G
I found it deflection seemed to change very quickly. New belt it seemed good, run for half a day and check and its way too slack.
I
Hmmm something moving or belt too stiff at first measure?
A
My hcr is chattering and had a missing section of cord like 3" long. My belt slipped several times first ride out due to snow, got it all frog skinned and didnt slip all day today and the belt looks the same (20 miles later)
3/4 the way up the primary i had a black streak i had to clean out
50 miles same belt
3/4 the way up the primary i had a black streak i had to clean out
50 miles same belt
G
With this ridgid clutch set-up the proper basic set-up FROM THE BEGINNING is much more important.
On the old chassis there was an inch of rubber slack in the motor mounts. Start the belt a little tight and at full throttle it was too loose.
Mine came too tight and the belt IMO was too short. So I found longer ones and installed them.
If you start with your belt too tight on this rigid set-up, in 20 miles of part throttle you will have already started seperating the top of the belt, even if you don't see a cord yet. You just lost a ton of grip and performance.
All the things that I have read here, pulling a cord within 20 miles, chattering at low speeds, large changes in deflection in a short period of time, black steak 2/3 rds up the primary, track speed stalling, rpm dropping are classic syptoms of too tight a belt.
I don't think there is anything to fix. You just have to set it up right. Read any belt manufactors web site or any clutching book or any shop manual, and the deflection adjustment is the same.
What does the proper deflection allow? It allows the fractional release of grip that a belt type CVT needs to allow the belt to change from going up or down on the sheaves (and your clutches are always doing that as the load changes from the front or the rear). Without that when one clutch starts to change direction (backshiftm or upshift) and the other doesn't it puts huge loads on the belt. Loads no belt can take.
IMO there is nothing to fix just proper set-up. With this rigid set-up (drag racers know this already 'cause they bolt the engine up solid) you will need to check deflection every time you change a belt and re-adjust when broken in. And, that deflection needs to be the full 1.125 to 1.250 of an inch.
The days of put it on tight and wait for it to wear in are gone. There is no longer a rubber connection for some give for the belt. If you do it this way you will pay the price in belts and performance.
One other thing. Clutches, gears, and chains take some time to break-in too. Be nice to them as they heat cycle and bushings wear in to help the sheaves run true in every shift position.
On the old chassis there was an inch of rubber slack in the motor mounts. Start the belt a little tight and at full throttle it was too loose.
Mine came too tight and the belt IMO was too short. So I found longer ones and installed them.
If you start with your belt too tight on this rigid set-up, in 20 miles of part throttle you will have already started seperating the top of the belt, even if you don't see a cord yet. You just lost a ton of grip and performance.
All the things that I have read here, pulling a cord within 20 miles, chattering at low speeds, large changes in deflection in a short period of time, black steak 2/3 rds up the primary, track speed stalling, rpm dropping are classic syptoms of too tight a belt.
I don't think there is anything to fix. You just have to set it up right. Read any belt manufactors web site or any clutching book or any shop manual, and the deflection adjustment is the same.
What does the proper deflection allow? It allows the fractional release of grip that a belt type CVT needs to allow the belt to change from going up or down on the sheaves (and your clutches are always doing that as the load changes from the front or the rear). Without that when one clutch starts to change direction (backshiftm or upshift) and the other doesn't it puts huge loads on the belt. Loads no belt can take.
IMO there is nothing to fix just proper set-up. With this rigid set-up (drag racers know this already 'cause they bolt the engine up solid) you will need to check deflection every time you change a belt and re-adjust when broken in. And, that deflection needs to be the full 1.125 to 1.250 of an inch.
The days of put it on tight and wait for it to wear in are gone. There is no longer a rubber connection for some give for the belt. If you do it this way you will pay the price in belts and performance.
One other thing. Clutches, gears, and chains take some time to break-in too. Be nice to them as they heat cycle and bushings wear in to help the sheaves run true in every shift position.
R
Deflection is hardly a player after engagement.. The belt will locate itself in the sheaves and be pulled tight.. The deflection adjustment is mainlhy for initial engagement. After you are engaged, the belt is tight and will be at the proper location in the sheaves.. What is important at this point is the belt length. Deflection is out of the picture.
G
I disagree with you completely Kelsy. Because I've seen it before on even rubber connected clutches from every make of sled.
But that's okay eh!
But that's okay eh!
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G
And, don't think for a minute I've left my clutches stock. I always believe there is room for improvement.
I've already experienced it.
But, that's just for me LOL.
I've already experienced it.
But, that's just for me LOL.
G
How does defection affect anything once the clutches are engaged more then just crawl speed. All you do to control deflection is set how far your secondary closes at stop. So after the clutches open those washers have no effect on the clutch. Even when your back shifting your clutches will never close enough for the washers to touch (unless you come to almost a complete stop). If I'm confused about something here please feel free to correct me.
Geo what belt did you go to?
Geo what belt did you go to?
G
Cat belt 0627-083 is 47.5197"long and 1.44882"wide
These are the closest cat belts that I could find, which on would be the best to try. They are all about a 1/4 inch longer and 1.6/32"s narrower.
---P/N-------------Length---------------Width
0627-020------47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch-----1 13/32 inch
0627-021------47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch-----1 13/32 inch
0627-031------47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch-----1 13/32 inch
0627-035------47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch-----1 13/32 inch
These are the closest cat belts that I could find, which on would be the best to try. They are all about a 1/4 inch longer and 1.6/32"s narrower.
---P/N-------------Length---------------Width
0627-020------47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch-----1 13/32 inch
0627-021------47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch-----1 13/32 inch
0627-031------47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch-----1 13/32 inch
0627-035------47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch-----1 13/32 inch
G
GW; How long will it take you to set-up a new belt with proper deflection. Break it in and prove me wrong.
I measured 'till I found a couple of 083's that measured 47.8". What was the length of the belts you blew?
I measured 'till I found a couple of 083's that measured 47.8". What was the length of the belts you blew?
G
To be honest I thought that they did have the proper deflection when installed. I was just at the shop and checked the deflection of the last belt with the pulled cords. It was about 2 inches which is way too lose. when installed new (60 miles ago) it sat a little over the top of the secondary (1/8th or so) and had roughly 1" or so of deflection, now it sits about 1/8 down. I also ran it on a track stand and both clutches seem to be moving without and bind or obvious problems. I could hear the chatter type noise but could not see anything that was causing it. With everything off it sounds a lot more like a belt chirp/squeal/slip.
I found a old 020 belt and through it on, it seemed to be too long and too narrow (never measured it and it was a old used belt so it could be quite worn) even with all the washers in it was still about 2 inch deflection. How ever there was a little less noise with it.
I'm going to go dig though some more sled parts to see if I can find a new 020, Im fairly sure I have one somewhere.
I found a old 020 belt and through it on, it seemed to be too long and too narrow (never measured it and it was a old used belt so it could be quite worn) even with all the washers in it was still about 2 inch deflection. How ever there was a little less noise with it.
I'm going to go dig though some more sled parts to see if I can find a new 020, Im fairly sure I have one somewhere.
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G
Both belts that pulled cords measured 47.35"s so a hair more then 1/8" short.
The first belt that had about 35 miles on it was 1.41 wide and the second with about 65 miles was 1.39 wide. It should be 1.45 new. If you read in the manual it states the belts with 1/32 or .03 of wear should be replaced, so both of these belts were technically worn out.
All the 020's that I had measure about the same so I did not re-run it. Measured 47.75 long and 1.36 wide.
The first belt that had about 35 miles on it was 1.41 wide and the second with about 65 miles was 1.39 wide. It should be 1.45 new. If you read in the manual it states the belts with 1/32 or .03 of wear should be replaced, so both of these belts were technically worn out.
All the 020's that I had measure about the same so I did not re-run it. Measured 47.75 long and 1.36 wide.
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A
I dont get how some people arent hearing this noise and some are. Some are having great belt life and some arent... Im waiting on my alignment tool. Should be easier to check the alignment on this one with the tcl. (you would think)
Im really wondering if its a bad batch of belts
-Aksnopro
Im really wondering if its a bad batch of belts
-Aksnopro
So cat won't warranty a belt? Who cares what is causing it. You payed 12-13k for a sled that works. If the dealer says everything is ok and blaming you for not breaking it in correctly then they should sell you a "correctly" broke in belt, for free I might add.
If he says it must be slipping from snow getting on the belt then they should install frogskinz or whatever to remedy the problem. There's nothing in the warranty book that states you can't ride your mountain sled in deep snow.
If they won't warranty belts then find a good dealer who will. I have four years with a big bore and still running the same belt. It's not from lack of trying to blow the belt.
Breaking in a belt just sounds stupid. I broke my four year belt in by riding the piss out of it as soon as I put it on. 2500 deep snow nw washington miles on the current belt.
My last sled was the belt eating master 05 900 poo and with proper clutching in two seasons over 1000 miles of powder riding I sold it with the same belt I bought it with to my buddy who rode it for two more seasons with no problems. So when a dealer says everything is fine and you must be doing something wrong I would politely tell him to F off. And find a good dealer.
Sorry to hear you guys are having problems.
If he says it must be slipping from snow getting on the belt then they should install frogskinz or whatever to remedy the problem. There's nothing in the warranty book that states you can't ride your mountain sled in deep snow.
If they won't warranty belts then find a good dealer who will. I have four years with a big bore and still running the same belt. It's not from lack of trying to blow the belt.
Breaking in a belt just sounds stupid. I broke my four year belt in by riding the piss out of it as soon as I put it on. 2500 deep snow nw washington miles on the current belt.
My last sled was the belt eating master 05 900 poo and with proper clutching in two seasons over 1000 miles of powder riding I sold it with the same belt I bought it with to my buddy who rode it for two more seasons with no problems. So when a dealer says everything is fine and you must be doing something wrong I would politely tell him to F off. And find a good dealer.
Sorry to hear you guys are having problems.
E
Check you rollers in the clutches guys there is lots failing where im at. I know our dealer is sold out of rollers as well as belts. Total bs from arctic cat to release the sled with issues.
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well if your deflection isn;t right at the beginning then you won;t or possible be quite be in the gear your intended to be in..and the cvt has to be related to gearing as the ratio changes...
i bought three new belts for my sled...put 100 miles one each one..adjusted my deflection again so i was within specs and i have three belts that i can change without having to look at deflection unless something generally goes wrong..
Deflection is the most important and overlooked clutch performing adjustment
according to Cat and as well with the post from Geo..so i was sold on the issue long ago..im glad Geo reconfirmed the importance of it..
C
I know that not many m1100t's have been delivered, but has anyone chewed up a belt on one or is this mainly been seen in M800's?
A
Dalton makes a replacement belt thats closer to the new belts specs the Any other cat belt, i was reading it on hcs.
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