Avids ratcheting Nytro Timbersled??

[Brutis20]

Just put on some avids. I got a MCX 240, timbersled 162, power claw. Stockers had 1500 mile on them and started to ratchet as expected. I just installed the Avids for this track and when on a stand there is about 1.25" slack in the track. Went for a ride and it would ratchet every once and a while (powder with a hard base). Should I tighten or is there something else I should be looking at? Chain was tightend finger tight as per ecommendations.

even when I got back the track still had the same slack. It would ratchet when tenching in the deep snow.

Any insight?

 

[Robbie]

Avids ratcheting

You are running your track too loose. When your sled is on the stand the inside rubber nubbins should be even with the bottom of the hyfax. You don't gain anything by running it looser. You can see for your self, if you have a fish scale. You might have to run it a little tighter than recommended. It all depends on track stretch, suspension set up & horse power. Robbie

 

[Brutis20]

Ok, I will try that. I thought I could run that loose easily. Will keep posted.

 

[MTdream]

powerclaws I have seen tend to stretch...

 

[Brutis20]

Tightened

This PC has been on for 1200 km (i have had it for 300).

Anyway I tightend it up to the recommended and it would still ratchet. It really only does it when burning a donut or if I am climbing deep snow when stopped then start climbing, if I am already going I can hit it wide open and its fine, even on hard packed. I really notice it when I am trenching and going slower then hit the throttle. I tightened it once more out when riding.

When I installed the avids I have the extros hugging the inside window with about a mm or 2 clearance, is this too close?

It almost seems like snow is getting jammed in by the front cooler??

I don't know...

 

[Brutis20]

Still Racheting!

ANyone??

I have tightened the track pretty tight and it will still ratchet (doesn't even hang when on a stand). Tighter than I would like. The drivers are not slipping but I noticed that the internal drivers are starting to get notched from the clips.

The track is only clipped every 2nd window (opposite on each side of track
). Would this matter if only every 2nd window is clipped?

I can turn the track by hand but is obviously tougher when this tight.

It just seems strange since I changed the drivers, maybe its the chain? Does it go on a certain way?

Please Help!

 

[stuck a lot]

I was out this week and I thought I blew a belt. I put a new one on and had the same problem. Clunk Clunk Clunk and heavy vibration at slower speeds. Checked everything and could find no problem. The snow was deep and a little heavy. The problem started immediately after a series of about 5 donuts.

Decided it would be best to head home. Half way out the vibration stopped and it ran fine. Got home and backed it out of the truck. It felt like it ratched real quick but then fine again. When I got it in the air I could see that there was no slack in my track. It use to hang about 1 inch from the rail. I reciently sucked up my limiter straps all the way. Could this have tightend my track?

With out being able to find anything wrong, I decided that my track must have been too tight. I loosened it back to where it was before and hopefully that will have solved the problem. It runs fine in the garage but it will be a while before I get out again.

I think my vibration came from the heavy snow pack in my skid and tunnel. Maybe you are going the wrong way with your track.

 

[Brutis20]

Inside Wheel kit

i also have an inside wheel kit, so no bogies in the rear outside. Maybe the track is wondering? I tried changing a bunch of suspension settings and still nothing. It is really noticable when carving or doing a donut and coming out of it??

I just don't know whats going on.

 

[scmurs]

Are you running an anti stab kit on the front of the rails?

It is possible that what you are feeling is the track whipping around the drivers and making contact with the rail tips.

Another possibility is that your chain may be skipping. Had a similar issue on a SC Nytro. Might be worth double checking your chain tension with the rear end in the air and rotating the track backwards and forwards while adjusting.

The finger tight method will not take all of the chain tension up if the slack in the chain is on the rearward facing side of the chaincase.

 

[OFT Racing]

This may be a stupid question but are you running the arctic cat style avids or do you have the nubs cliped?

Im going to guess that this is not the issue but I figured I would throw it out there.

 

[Brutis20]

driver

The avids built for the PC and Nytro. Nubs are not clipped but I don't think they need to be. I checked chain tnesion and don't things that is what it is. Also I got it pretty tight so I can't see it whipping around. I appreciate the help, just can't fugue it out. See below this is how it is right now.

 

[wpnyturbo]

mine did the same thing this last ride when i got it home and pulled the skid and noticed that my front shock had lost all of its air and im thinking that is what caused mine and my drivers were completely shot but wierd thing it was only the ones on clutch side brake side was good.

 

[MTdream]

just my opinion, but those need to be centered in the windows...your possibly picking up "ratcheting" from the track moving and snapping into the window...

 

[HDEMWET]

i agree with MTdream, press that driver over to the left and if the other side is the same center it as well, your track could be climbing under load when it begins to stretch, you can loosen it as well, it's not good to run the track that tight. When your suspension begins to travel and the track tension changes you can end up binding if the track is that tight and something will end up letting go or bending. sounds like when you hammer it and the sled squats down and all that hp gets transfered to the track that it is climbing the nubs under all that load what with the drivers being so close to the edge of the windows.

 

[MTdream]

also, if your not running an anti stab kit...get one ASAP!!!!!!!!!

 

[Brutis20]

I was thinking this too, Instrutions said to install on inside of track window. I will try this and see what happens, may be able to do this w/o removing axle.

 

[Brutis20]

I centered the drivers in the window and no luck, just as bad. Looking closer at the drivers and I think these are actually bending down when power applied and then slipping, see pic looks like they are not 100% straight anymore. You can see the black wear marks on the drivers from the track. What do you guys think? Is anyone running this same set-up with boost? I may have to go back to the other style and cut the nubs??

 

[HDEMWET]

just curious, but are those black marks from your rail tips surging forwards and hitting the drivers? like MTdream said, perhaps invest in an anti-stab kit, I'd hoped for your sake it was just misaligned, would have been a free fix, I'm stumped now, if it's not due to stabbing.

 

[MTdream]

if your rail caps are showing wear, I would suggest you might be feeling your rail caps hitting the drivers, I dont think that is track black on their...It seems it might be rail caps...

and I cannot stress enough how important an anti stab kit is with Timbersled...that alone might be enough to solve your issue...

It is hard to tell from the pics, but how much clearance do you have from rail caps to driver tips?

 

[Brutis20]

I just can't see how the anti stab kit would prevent the rails from hitting the drivers, not sure if this is even possible they are 4" away. See the pic of the tips they do have some marks but it still seems is the track rubber on the drivers. I will probably tear it a part againa and double check the chain, anyway telling if its the chain slipping once I get it apart. I think its funny how it was fine and then just started with the stock drivers and now still with the avids. Thanks for you input every bit helps.