Common XP issue and maintenance!!
- Thread starter triple7
- Start date
F
J
anybody know how many miles you can get on your jackshaft bearing
thanks
thanks
R
well when you get the job done give me a call so i can take it off your hands
D
put nordlock washers on my xp with a drop of red loctite
P
Pulled my recoil off after the knot came undone, not fun. anyhow the pull cord is not guarded at all. It was about an 1/8 inch away from rubbing on my crank trigger wires.
M
OMG! That is exactly what happened to me on Wednesday.HAHAH... boy do they grease those things up.
Thanks for the heads up on the wires.
R
There's a big problem with XP's I haven't seen mentioned as of yet...
Last season my 2 usual riding buddies were both XP riders. One on an 08 163x and one on an 09 163 everest. Both of them are problematic BIG TIME.
The problem is whenever I ride with these boneheads, I find myself wishing I had one!
Last season my 2 usual riding buddies were both XP riders. One on an 08 163x and one on an 09 163 everest. Both of them are problematic BIG TIME.
The problem is whenever I ride with these boneheads, I find myself wishing I had one!
F
Must go in three's, mine did that Friday when I tried to start and load.Wasn't too funny at the time!!!
P
There was poutine all over mine????
I love how they make the cast piece of the bulkhead so you can't get a torx driver in there straight on to get at the recoil bolts
M
\BAHAHAHA!!!
I was quite surprised at how easy it was to get to, better than the blind way of doing it on a Rev.
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W
Drive shaft on 08s had weak welds. Check with dealer to see if yours is one of them.
M
That was a safety recall. If the dealer didn't fix it, or it was overlooked, something definitely went wrong.
R
Suggestion:
On the newer sleds I always put another Knot Behind the recoil handle....Then if breaks at handle or comes loose second not ends up on outside of recoil.....Pull and go..not always but most of the time
On the newer sleds I always put another Knot Behind the recoil handle....Then if breaks at handle or comes loose second not ends up on outside of recoil.....Pull and go..not always but most of the time
S
Motor mount
I started pulling cord on my belts...found that the rear PTO motor mount had failed. The rubber had partially seperated
from the mount allowing the engine to move way to much under a load.
I started pulling cord on my belts...found that the rear PTO motor mount had failed. The rubber had partially seperated
from the mount allowing the engine to move way to much under a load.
Some common mistakes we're seeing that cause belt/clutch wear issues:
TRA assembly:
when installing the cotter pin in the roller pins, make SURE you cut off the excess length to about 3/16" and make sure they are folded over tight to the arm (leaving them long or loose they catch the governor cup and unfold causing arms to bind and possibly pins to break and come out...not good).
DO NOT remove either the plastic spring sleeve or the "hockey puck" spacer. Without the spring sleeve the spring distorts/resonates and rubs against the aluminum spring cap causing alot of abrasive dust that gets into bushings/rollers and shortens clutch life, not to mention makes a mess. The limiter "puck" help to keep the 2 sheaves from banging together and possibly damaging the area of the movable sheave that retains the snap-ring holding the bushing....have seen these completely blown out from overshifting too hard too many times.
Make sure to reinstall the Delrin washers at BOTH ends of the spring in the secondary clutch.....easy to miss the one inside the helix, especially if going with a different helix.
Another common issue is loose y-pipe bolts. Spits out oil and it blows back onto the primary/belt....belts and oil don't mix.
Also...the plastic plug just forward of the primary clutch....make sure it's there. They get knocked out with blown belts or may just come out on their own. Allows snow to get on the belt.....belts and water don't mix. There is another on the right side of the sled you can use on the clutch side if it's missing.
If you're having an unusual amount of belt problems, check for oil from the y-pipe and check that plug.
TRA assembly:
when installing the cotter pin in the roller pins, make SURE you cut off the excess length to about 3/16" and make sure they are folded over tight to the arm (leaving them long or loose they catch the governor cup and unfold causing arms to bind and possibly pins to break and come out...not good).
DO NOT remove either the plastic spring sleeve or the "hockey puck" spacer. Without the spring sleeve the spring distorts/resonates and rubs against the aluminum spring cap causing alot of abrasive dust that gets into bushings/rollers and shortens clutch life, not to mention makes a mess. The limiter "puck" help to keep the 2 sheaves from banging together and possibly damaging the area of the movable sheave that retains the snap-ring holding the bushing....have seen these completely blown out from overshifting too hard too many times.
Make sure to reinstall the Delrin washers at BOTH ends of the spring in the secondary clutch.....easy to miss the one inside the helix, especially if going with a different helix.
Another common issue is loose y-pipe bolts. Spits out oil and it blows back onto the primary/belt....belts and oil don't mix.
Also...the plastic plug just forward of the primary clutch....make sure it's there. They get knocked out with blown belts or may just come out on their own. Allows snow to get on the belt.....belts and water don't mix. There is another on the right side of the sled you can use on the clutch side if it's missing.
If you're having an unusual amount of belt problems, check for oil from the y-pipe and check that plug.
J
all chaincase rivots are loose,rear of tunnel crack at rivot holes from stupid hard mounted snowflap,break disk gaurd rubs on disk from getting pushed in by foot, and if dealer installed skid plate those rivots will pull out.
C
Has anybody else tried this to solve the oil leak problem? I have an 09 and it leaks?
Has anybody else tried this to solve the oil leak problem? I have an 09 and it leaks?
It seems if you just snug the cap it doesn't leak....ovetightening distorts the reservoir threaded area and then they leak. Someone makes a aluminum insert that goes in the reservoir inlet that holds it true and supposedly stops the leaks. It is on this page...http://www.dootalk.com/dtproducts.php
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C
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