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P22 Clutch

S
Mar 6, 2008
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Northern Sweden
It would be interesting to know but there is no way they could build a complete sled for 1K-1.5K. I would have to say the materials alone might equal your amount defiantly surpass it by the time the material is processed. They use a fair amount of vendor parts (they don't manufacture) per sled as well, the track alone wholesale (polaris' price from vendor) probably half the cost we buy them for would contribute to $400-500 bucks alone that's just one part. Labor, overhead and R&D alone would surpass 1K-1.5K in a hurry. I heard a new car is sold for around twice the amount they cost to build. So I'd have to guess a 15K dollar sled would most likely cost minimum 6-7K to build plus the dealer cut and transportation.
Any nut, bolt or other small component will cost a factory perhaps 1/50th of what it will cost you to get one at the hard ware store.

I know that Volvo payed about $250 for the entire 2.5L 5cyl inline petrol engine they used for many years in their 850, 50&70 series cars. Saab payed about ONE dollar for a front shock absorber for the 9-3 car. I know, these are old numbers but they are/were small makers with series sizes roughly comparable to what Polaris might have and will give a hint to the price bracket OEM:s shops in.
As I said, parts only, no assembly or R&D/development a sled will cost 1-1.5k, add those and you might get to 2-3k. A car will have an even larger gap between total cost and parts only. Big auto OEM:s probably has a parts bill for a four door family car of perhaps 3k. But in that case the bill for R&D/development and other "system costs" are much, much higher so yes, by the time all those are payed for you could be in the right area guessing they sell it to the dealers for twice total cost.

What all OEMs have learned is that a dollar earned isn't near that by the time it has been taxed and arrives at the bank. A dollar saved is a whole dollar in the bank. Selling to OEM:s is a tough business.
 

glowa

Well-known member
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Oct 11, 2014
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Europe
Sorry to interrupt but is the belt different for P22 9R clutch? I mean different from 850
 
C
Dec 14, 2020
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93
According to that bulletin, looks like T60 same as Cat has been for years. Looks like the replacement is Allen head.Why Allen? Torx is more reliable design for re-use.

The tool in the pack on the sled includes a torx.

Allen is just fine unless you're trying to jam the wrong size in there.

I'd guess it was much easier for them to source an Allen headed bolt in the size and grade needed. Only times I've seen torx outside of construction is stupid things like brake calipers and old jeeps because AMC loved torx and e-torx.
 

spoon

Wrenching to ride is half the fun
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Dec 2, 2007
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Kootenays, BC
The tool in the pack on the sled includes a torx.

Allen is just fine unless you're trying to jam the wrong size in there.

I'd guess it was much easier for them to source an Allen headed bolt in the size and grade needed. Only times I've seen torx outside of construction is stupid things like brake calipers and old jeeps because AMC loved torx and e-torx.
Working as a mechanic for 35 years and always dread seeing Allen head on anything. Torx has its own issues but Allen is more prone to stripping than a Torx and lots of times jamming a torx bit into a worn allen is only way to save the day. Torx has more surface area to grip on. Fewer sizes too unlike the 1000s of allen keys you seem to collect over the years. GM used to be the king of Torx but they are on everything now.
 

BeartoothBaron

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Nov 2, 2017
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European stuff, like my Mercedes and the old Porsche project, uses lots of Allen head stuff. I can only think of a couple I had trouble with, and that was because of steel bolt in aluminum galling. They use high grade stuff on everything though: I suspect the 8.8s you find on those are as stout as some 10.9 stuff from overseas you see these days. By the way, if you want to save yourself (or quite possibly somebody else) a ton of frustration, always use anti-seize on bolts going into aluminum. Twelve-point seems to be taking over for Allen, especially from VW/Audi. Weirdly, the only place I've found them on my (older) stuff is the bolts for the CV joint flange. MB is huge on replacing just about every bolt you touch (sometimes a good idea; definitely a profit generator in most cases though), and their CV service kit with boots and grease had new bolts... Only this time with inverted Torx head bolts. I haven't touched that socket set since I did that job; probably will some day, but...

Anyway, I like Allens, but Torx are less prone to strip, unless they get filled with gunk. Really, my biggest complaint is that you need multiple sets of sockets for cap-heads, sometimes even when you're working on one machine. I'd probably lose less time dealing with stripped Allen bolts than I do digging out the right socket, but we know they'd never all agree on one thing. Really, in hindsight, it's amazing that the big three all settled on SAE hardware for as long as they did. That part of working on old American iron is always refreshing.
 
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