XP Turbo Build

[Holomis International]

Hey Guys/Gals

I told my self this year I wasn't going to build a sled up I was just going to ride a nice stock machine, or something someone else had done some work to. That thought lasted about a month

Here we go again!!!

I have been giving a lot of thought to many different machines, turbo phazer, Nytro, Dragon and Pro. After some more thought and research I ended up deciding on an XP.

Once I decided on the machine it was time to decide on a turbo, I have used the Aerocharger 53 on my M8 which I quite liked, I also used a Garret setup on my Dragon which was also great.

For this project I decided on using the Aerocharger again but this time I wanted the 66. I like the Aerocharger, I like simplicity of it, and I found that it spooled better for my kind of riding.

So once I determined that I set out on finding a system, and there just happened to be a used setup from a fellow Snowester.

The system was sold by Turboboyz, however I want to make it clear that this system with the Aerocharger turbo is no longer available they now use the Garret turbo for there applications. Keep that in mind when you guys are reading this post so that if you like what you see you don't all start calling Bryce for the Aero kit, you can get an XP kit from them with a Garret. I just wanted to make that clear from the get go so there is no confusion. I spoke with Bryce from Turboboyz (great to talk to especially since I have bought the kit used and it is something they no longer carry, that says a lot about them as a company) and I told him I would make it very clear that this was not something currently available.

Alright that's out of the way so lets start with this project.

Quick little resume on my turbo experience, 2 years ago I bought an M8 with an aerocharger 53 installed in it, it wasn't running properly and needed some work, so I set out and made a bunch of changes and got it running well, did some custom paint and a few other custom touches.

Last year I installed my first Turbo from scratch on a 2007 D7, I installed the Silber turbo kit and was very happy with it, installation was easy and after a bit of tweaking got it to run great as well.

I have attached a couple pictures of the completed machines.

Thanks

Jeff
www.holomis.com
info@holoms.com

 

[Holomis International]

Ok so here is what we are starting with a 2008 XP 154" track, Dynamo Joe Clutching, MBRP Can (which has been sold) other then that she is bone stock.

We are now just waiting for the turbo kit to come in, in the meantime we will be starting to remove decals, cleaning/detailing the machine, building custom venting, designing new running boards, and getting ready to install the turbo.

Stay tuned this will be a good build log. Also we are always open to input from anyone with experience in the XP turbo.

Thanks

Jeff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com

 

[swrev]

You're going to be amazed how easy the turbo XP is to tune. Ran mine across the hayfield at 80 degrees, left it the same as it was from my last trip to the mountains, and it didn't miss a beat.

If you've been following turbo XP's you already know this, but basically all you need to do is remove the stinger/weld the pipe, do something to keep the boots from delaminating, powervalve relief or STM valves, and then turn up the boost!!!

Here is a pic of my pipe, I just removed the stinger, and welded on a little extra metal to add some thickness to attach a barb for changing to pipe signal for fuel pressure (currently covered by wrap).

 

[Holomis International]

I have been starting to follow the XP turbo threads, and have read about the pipe welding and stinger removal, also need to explore the bellow blowing issue further have read briefly about using a pressure relief valve, and also there seems to be some debate on signal pick up as well.

On my D7 we threaded the Carbs for signal pick up and also came off of the top of the intercooler.

So there are still a couple details to work out.

Thanks for the input!

Jeff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com

 

[Aerocharger_Brad]

I would be happy to look at the turbo for you to make sure it will give you years of great performance. No charge you just pay freight. If it need anything major we get you the best price we can. I look forward to seeing your updates. Let me know if you need any help.

 

[Holomis International]

I would be happy to look at the turbo for you to make sure it will give you years of great performance. No charge you just pay freight. If it need anything major we get you the best price we can. I look forward to seeing your updates. Let me know if you need any help.

Thank you Sir!

I will have a look at it when it comes in and make the call at that time. It's my understanding that it only has 300-400 miles on it.

Thanks

Jeff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com

 

[kbl6z]

That's gunna be a sweet ride!

 

[utah_sledder]

First mod after the turbo....camo extreme non ported track!

 

[Holomis International]

Hey guys

Sorry for the delay, we have been swamped getting our 2011 deck production underway.

Ok so we have have started taking the panels off the xp and are starting to throw some color ideas back and forth. We have stripped the decals off the machine.

We are waiting for the turbo to come in, once that arrives we will really get the project underway.

In the meantime if someone could direct us to a post or some pictures on how to modify the stock pipe it would be appreciated.

We will post pictures shortly as we build our vent kits and running boards etc...

Thanks

Holomis Staff
www.holomis.com
Info@holomis.com

 

[Holomis International]

Hey Guys

As we wait for the turbo to come in the mail, we are getting a list of other things to do to the machine, your feedback would be appreciated:

1. Pipe stinger removal, it is our understanding that you seperate the factory pipe in two, open it, remove the stinger, then re weld the 2 halves, is this correct.

2. Lowering the front skid, about an inch, by flipping the inside support bracket and re drilling the hole lower in the tunnel (this was an old trick we use to do on the 2000 generation polaris and summit) when you do this using the 08 shock do you also want to move the lower mount position back somewhat or is dropping it the 1" enough to lighten up the ski's.

3. We are going to swap the left and right ski spacers to narrow up the front end some

4. 2 wheel kit in the rear to help with side hilling

Your input on this along with any other suggestions would be great. This is our first XP project, we really liked how our IQ dragon worked last year and hoping we have made the right change over.

Thanks

Holomis Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com

 

[winter brew]

I would avoid a 2 wheel setup....keep 3 or even go 4. You will not know the difference sidehilling but will likely break wheels if you go 2, especially with the added power. It will also plant better, better traction on launch.
Keep the skid in stock location and go with SLP spindles to lessen ski pressure without turning it into a wheelie machine. It will go ALOT higher on the hill by keeping the shallower approach with less weight transfer. Turbo XP's fight ski lift even in stock position.
JMO....keep us posted on the build!

 

[Octanee]

i made my own 2 wheel kit, kinda paranoid about it all the damn time, i personally do not see how it can make side hilling better any how, but 1 good thing has come from me making my own 2 wheel kit, the option and how easily i can throw on a extra 2 out side wheels to make it 4, which i plan on doing, because yeah when you have all that power, last thing you want to have happen is 1 wheel going on you, because as they say, if 1 goes then your done, but if you have 4, if 1 goes it dont matter you keep on riding all day

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

as far as 2 wheel kit, run 2 forever... put a couple 1000 miles on mine with my boat anchor yami in my doo.. never had an issue. and i do my fare share of ground slaying.

for doing the pipe, you go to where the stinger is welded into the fat part of the pipe, cut around on the fat side of the pipe, just through the outer layer, leaving the stinger intact to make it way easier to get out. you have to go about 1/4" in from the weld as the end of the stinger is flaired inside, and it needs to be able to fit out. take the stinger how that you removed it and then cut the peice that goes into the fat part off.. reweld. done.

also, go over the whole seam on the main pipe with the mig welder... and weld covering from the base of the bend up to the top. get wild with it, lots of filler. you will appreciate this when your pipe doesnt crack all the time. with these 2 mods and a good BOV, you shouldnt have any pipe cracking issues.

 

[taylorbok]

did u have that ski doo chassis with yammi mill at haydays for sale?

 

[Holomis International]

I do most of my riding in the trees so would everyone still be in favor of not dropping the front of the skid. If I dont have to do it all the better.

My dragon came stock with 2 wheel kit and it was great side hilling machine also only had 15" track. With a 2 wheel kit it should allow the outside of the track to flex more giving you better side hilling?

We will locate the stinger and remove it. We TIG weld everything so we will just be generous with the rod.

Thanks

Holomis Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com

 

[Octanee]

curious, not sure about this stinger nor have i heard of it, but would a 2005 ski doo 1000 have this stinger inside of the pipe?, any pictures of this if there is?, what about a 2007 800r would it have a stinger? goin to be turbo'ing my 1000 and so im sure if there is something in that big pipe that it will create some restriction which aint good?, thanks

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

i beleive that the 1000' may as well, slide a tap measure in and hook it on where the stinger ends, see how far in it sticks into the fat part of the pipe from the outlet. also, i beleive the 07 revs do as well, but again, a simple test should get you figured out in a hurry.

as for the welding, tig would work fine, just super nice to haul *** with the mig welder, its a LOT of welding thats not terribly important, just needs some more material there.


as for the sled for sale at haydays, nope, that was derek, similar idea, but different sled.

 

[badass1000]

I have always liked the two wheel kit. I think it sidehills a little better with a two wheel kit. I have had a two wheel kit on my xp since new in 08. smitty two wheel kit with stock wheels. Last year the shaft through the center bent. I am not sure if it is from hitting something hard or it just bent. called smitty up and he sent me a new one free. If it does it again I may go to a mmp kit because the shaft is 25mm instead of the 20mm smitty one for stock wheels.
my xp is a 154. I tried every thing with the stock skid to keep the front end down. didn't work. wheelied way too bad. always feathering the throttle and leaning clear over the bars to keep it down. I put a timbersled on it last year. way better then stock skid. I use their recomended setup for 8lbs of boost and it works pretty good. I had some more spacers made up so I can try their recomended setup for 10lbs of boost, but havn't tried it yet. Last year my xp ran amazing on 10.3 lbs of boost. probably run it on 11.4lbs of boost this year.
I would say avid drivers are a must on a turbo xp. I put a 155x2.5 challenger extreme on also last year. I rode a few times last year with two guys that had m1000's with m1200 kits and 174x3 tracks. One hill took them 5 or so trys track poaching to make it over. I made it over first try no problem fresh powder all the way. I heard one of them ordered a turbo kit for their m1200 this year.

 

[Octanee]

i beleive that the 1000' may as well, slide a tap measure in and hook it on where the stinger ends, see how far in it sticks into the fat part of the pipe from the outlet. also, i beleive the 07 revs do as well, but again, a simple test should get you figured out in a hurry.

so what you are saying, is to stick a tape measure up my pipe and try and feel for something in there?, for a non turbo sled, is there any point to open that exhaust up and pull out the "stinger"? will that affect a sleds jetting? of course going to turbo a sled you dont worry about jetting, but just wondering for a n/a sled, thanks

 

[swrev]

\
for doing the pipe, you go to where the stinger is welded into the fat part of the pipe, cut around on the fat side of the pipe, just through the outer layer, leaving the stinger intact to make it way easier to get out. you have to go about 1/4" in from the weld as the end of the stinger is flaired inside, and it needs to be able to fit out. take the stinger how that you removed it and then cut the peice that goes into the fat part off.. reweld. done.
QUOTE]

If you cut closer to the current weld, you can pull the end with the stinger out to the flare, cut as close to the flare as you can, and dump the flare out the engine side of the exhaust. Then cut off the remainder of the stinger. When you reweld, it only appears to have been welded one time for a cleaner look. Either way works.