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Weird low idle situation after vforce install.

Vern

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No, it didn’t magically fix itself. Guess I’ll have to pull it apart and actually look at it this week.
 

Anylizer

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I installed some vforce reeds in my ‘20 alpha last week and got her out on the maiden voyage yesterday. Overall ran fine, but now has a weird idle quirk. When you first start it, if you don’t give it any throttle it’ll idle real low for a sec before coming up to normal idle. Also when you let off the throttle like coming to a stop, the idle will drop to about 1000rpm and sound like it’s going to die for a sec then it’ll bounce back up to 16-1700rpm and idle normal. The biggest issue is the low idle on start up. It idles low enough on initial start up that it won’t let the hand and thumb warmers power up. It’ll start flashing the hand and thumb warmer codes and they won’t ever turn on. If I immediately give it throttle on start up and get the rpm up a bit everything works fine. Anyone seen something like this after a Reed install? I made no other changes to the sled besides the reeds. Maybe I got the Iac dirty or something when removing or installing? Any ideaa?


Hey Vern,

This is a somewhat common occurrence with the CTEC. I had to adjust the manual idle stop screw, then "recalibrate" the TPS back to within spec. SLP stopped adding V-force to their stage kits because of this. I have had to do this on several of my customers machines. It is nothing you did during install. I'm curious if the same thing occurs with Boysen???
 

Vern

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Hey Vern,

This is a somewhat common occurrence with the CTEC. I had to adjust the manual idle stop screw, then "recalibrate" the TPS back to within spec. SLP stopped adding V-force to their stage kits because of this. I have had to do this on several of my customers machines. It is nothing you did during install. I'm curious if the same thing occurs with Boysen???
Interesting. Is the tps “recalibration” as simple as loosening the screws and adjusting it back into spec, or is that a programming thing?
 

Anylizer

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Yes, I just get it running, then adjust the stop screw, until its running about 1800/2000 rpm. tighten down the jam nut ( some times this changes RPM slightly)
Then go thru the TPS calibration steps. You may have to adjust throttle cable free-play when you're done.
 

Vern

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That was a bitch of a job. I think doing the reeds themselves was less of a pain. Anywho, got the idle bumped up a little bit to about 1750-1800, was at 1550-1600. That was the best I could do, it kept jumping to 2200+ every time I tried to give it a smidge more. The tps was still in spec, but I bumped it down about .015v just to see what happens(still in spec though). The tps appeared to be pretty much maxed out the direction I moved it anywho. The idle still seems to drop a bit and come back up when I blip the throttle, but it’s a bit higher across the board so hopefully it’ll at least let the hand warmers fire up without me having to remember to throttle it up on start up. Guess we’ll see.
 

Vern

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Bumping up the idle a bit seemed to help with the low idle weirdness, and so far the warmers seem to be firing up on start up with no throttle input. So that issue seems to be taken care of.

Unfortunately I still have the issue which prompted the Reed change in the first place. Loading up like a mofo on the bottom end and random bog when going wide open after it’s been in the low rpm’s for a bit. At this point I’m leaning toward injectors again as it seems similar to when they started acting up before last season, which is stupid since they have less than 1k miles on them and one season. I know these are known for injector issues but damn. I thought I’d get at least a few seasons on them like the originals.
 
A
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Bumping up the idle a bit seemed to help with the low idle weirdness, and so far the warmers seem to be firing up on start up with no throttle input. So that issue seems to be taken care of.

Unfortunately I still have the issue which prompted the Reed change in the first place. Loading up like a mofo on the bottom end and random bog when going wide open after it’s been in the low rpm’s for a bit. At this point I’m leaning toward injectors again as it seems similar to when they started acting up before last season, which is stupid since they have less than 1k miles on them and one season. I know these are known for injector issues but damn. I thought I’d get at least a few seasons on them like the originals.
Fuel pressure spring in tank assembly?
 

Vern

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Fuel pressure spring in tank assembly?
My adapters for my fuel pressure gauge are too short and rigid to get hooked in line between the pump and fuel line to see the pressure while running, but I rigged the gauge up to the pump with no outlet and cranked the sled over and it hit 59psi while cranking, which falls in spec so 🤷‍♂️
 
F
Jan 2, 2013
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I installed some vforce reeds in my ‘20 alpha last week and got her out on the maiden voyage yesterday. Overall ran fine, but now has a weird idle quirk. When you first start it, if you don’t give it any throttle it’ll idle real low for a sec before coming up to normal idle. Also when you let off the throttle like coming to a stop, the idle will drop to about 1000rpm and sound like it’s going to die for a sec then it’ll bounce back up to 16-1700rpm and idle normal. The biggest issue is the low idle on start up. It idles low enough on initial start up that it won’t let the hand and thumb warmers power up. It’ll start flashing the hand and thumb warmer codes and they won’t ever turn on. If I immediately give it throttle on start up and get the rpm up a bit everything works fine. Anyone seen something like this after a Reed install? I made no other changes to the sled besides the reeds. Maybe I got the Iac dirty or something when removing or installing? Any ideaa?
I have this same issue on my 18, I rebuilt the top end at 900 miles due to crack in cylinder that was seeping in coolant. I installed vforce and it would idle at about 1550 rpms, If I hit the throttle it would rev up then drop to 750 and very slowly creep back to 1500 or so. I've since put 1200 miles on and it still does it. Albeit it does climb back up quicker than it used too.

I've got that slow speed 12-25mph rpm flutter between 4k and 6k right now that makes sled sound lean. And sled gets rev happy and will actually backfire in that speed range. Sled has 2k on it. I bought new injectors to install and have programmed in. I'm also going to have them check tps and make sure it's functioning correctly and replace as needed.

I plan to have them bump idle to 1750 if I can.

This flutter I've tried curing with different weights, belts, clutches, springs helixs etc. So I'm hoping it's bad injectors.
 

clutch

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Probably injectors. My 2020 had issue from brand new, finally changed them and cured it. Now my 2023 Mountain Max is starting to have the same issues roughly 600 miles.
 

Sage Crusher

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I've got that slow speed 12-25mph rpm flutter between 4k and 6k right now that makes sled sound lean. And sled gets rev happy and will actually backfire in that speed range. Sled has 2k on it. I bought new injectors to install and have programmed in. I'm also going to have them check tps and make sure it's functioning correctly and replace as needed.

This flutter I've tried curing with different weights, belts, clutches, springs helixs etc. So I'm hoping it's bad injectors.
Yes we found that flutter also- pulled the V force 3's out and installed factory reeds and that flutter is gone.. We change one thing at a time and this cured the flutter as you described. 100%
 

clutch

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Nov 26, 2007
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Big Horns Wyoming
Random low idle, and a bog basically dropping one cylinder when you grabbed a handful of throttle. at first you could just let off and get back in it quick and it would recover. Then it started getting more frequent, and dropping one cylinder altogether, but might come back after you restart it. Also hand thumb warmer issues at startup. New injectors and the idle came back and no more bog.
 
F
Jan 2, 2013
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Yes we found that flutter also- pulled the V force 3's out and installed factory reeds and that flutter is gone.. We change one thing at a time and this cured the flutter as you described. 100%
Hmm. I've had the reeds installed for the last 4 years. This just started recently. But if I do injector swap and it still does it. I will try that
 

Sage Crusher

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Ya it was kinda like ..."Going to change back one thing at a time -till I get back to stock". and Bingo !!
My first instinct was ride it till something breaks then I know what to fix😜 but she would not give up just made it not as enjoyable to ride.
 
F
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What was the flutter you had? Mine straight up just freewheels in that range and literally slips the belt. It will rev up freely and once it hits 25mph it drops to 4500 and all is well past 25. I still feel it's injectors or tps
 
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