P
I've herd that sway bar removal can be kind of pain on these older sleds. So I was wondering if there was any tricks to make it easier?
sway bar removal
- Thread starter polaris_rmk700
- Start date
H
When I used to have an old summit I zip cut each side off haha.
P
Yeah that's what my dad did on his 2001 rmk and in was hoping there would be an easier way
Not much easier way other than sawzalling it out.
The way to do it to preserver it for future use on an Edge RMK is on one side to take the lower radius rod loose from the trailing arm. This will allow you to rotate the trailing arm enough to pull the sway bar end out of it. Then drill the 3 rivets out of each sway bar bushing in the bulkhead, pop those bushings out. Then you rotate the sway bar and pull it out the side you have the radius rod disconnected on.
That is lots more difficult than just taking the sawzall to it.
But it does allow you to preserve it for future re-install.
sled_guy
The way to do it to preserver it for future use on an Edge RMK is on one side to take the lower radius rod loose from the trailing arm. This will allow you to rotate the trailing arm enough to pull the sway bar end out of it. Then drill the 3 rivets out of each sway bar bushing in the bulkhead, pop those bushings out. Then you rotate the sway bar and pull it out the side you have the radius rod disconnected on.
That is lots more difficult than just taking the sawzall to it.
But it does allow you to preserve it for future re-install.sled_guy
Drill out the rivets holding the sway bar bushings. Remove bushings on both sides. Remove the rear trailing arm bolt on one side so you can swing the arm away from the sled. That will let you free one end of the sway bar and then with some twisting and turning you can pull the sway bar out. Remove the sway bar slide from the trailing arm assembly on both sides and you're good to go. If you desire you can make a plate from some aluminum or plastic to cover the holes created by removal of sway bar bushings and rivet it in place. Pretty easy procedure and you can reinstall the sway bar if you want.
This is basically what I did when I took it out of my wife's edge 600 switchback 144... although IIRC I took the front a-arm bolts out instead. Drilling out the rivets is easy, then working out the swaybar is not very hard at all. To me the swaybar cutting approach is a waste and makes it a one-way operation... sloppy... again IMHO...
Once you remove the sway bar, then you should be turning up the front shock spring container nuts so that you have a somewhat higher spring constant and less free travel. Because they become unstable on trail corners with no sway bar or in soft snow. Or, you can do what I did and put XC springs on the front end, which have a lot higher spring constant but full travel, (stiffer spring).
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