Spring tension - Need help PLEASE!

[gotsnow]

I bought a 2001 800 RMK. The guy I bought it from is a lot smaller than me, lets say 80 lbs. (He was like 140 lbs.) I just made my track spring about 2" tighter but not sure where I should stop. I have made no adjustments yet to the springs on the skis. Not sure if that takes a special tool ? Right now when I get on standing as far forward as possible it goes about all the way to the bottom but not quite. Is this right or do i need to tighten more? Oh and no smart a$$ comments I know I need to lose some weight.. haha

 

[volcano buster]

So when you stand on it, the rear springs are the ones collapsing, or both front and rear?

I think the rears are likely going to need replacing for both age and your weight advantage. The fronts take a spanner wrench to turn up the collar. I use one out of my quad tool kit when I need to.

 

[gotsnow]

The spring located under the seat in the middle of the tunnel I tightened. The front shocks/springs I have not adjusted as they seem to be a little more stiff and do not compress like the back spring was. I think I may need to tighten the back center spring more?

 

[volcano buster]

There is a good chance that there are 2 mounting locations for the front skid shock. You may need to move the top mount to the upper hole so the shock stands upright as possible. That would provide more compression if it is not in that position currently.

 

[gotsnow]

BASIC SETUP ? back spring tension is what I need help with

I think you misunderstood the question. The front springs are ok as they are not fully compressed when standing or sitting on the sled, but the back spring is what I need help with and my question is how much tension should you have? When I sit on the sled and it bottoms out I assume I need to compress the spring some more. But how much? Really a basic set up question but I dont know.

 

[volcano buster]

You are right, I may have misunderstood. The info I was after related to how much weight the rear springs were having to support. If the front skid spring was in the "soft" setting, most of the weight would be carried by the rear. If the fronts were already in the upright position, then the rear springs are likely not stout enough even if torqued up all the way. Does the rear spring rest have a long rectangular plastic block that the spring end rests on? If so, turn the so the long leg of the block is pushing up on the spring. Turn both blocks in the same rotation, throttle side counterclockwise, brake lever side clockwise. This keeps the spring seated in the block. If you turn them the other direction, you can pop the spring out of the "valley" in the block and bust things like your fingers!

 

[gotsnow]

coil spring

My 2 springs seem to be to weak? Has anyone replaced the coiled spring under their tunnel. I am talking about the two all metal springs. I was a the dealer ship and there are a couple different ones you can buy, it looks like one is thicker, which I assume is for more stiffness? Does anybody know? The dealership guy I talked to did not seem to know.

I also need a bushing that goes at the bottom of the fox shock. The guy I bought it from said he rebuilt the shock but it seems the bushing is now missing creatting some slop / free play. I can buy a brand new (non fox) shock for $103.

 

[retiredpop]

You need the thicker rear suspension springs that are made with .375" stock. Here are the part numbers from the polaris industries parts manual http://www.polaris.com/en-us/snowmobiles/pages/parts-manuals.aspx

7041631-067 SPRING-TORSION,.375/77°,LH,BLK (.375/77)
7041632-067 SPRING-TORSION,.375/77°,RH,BLK (.375/77)

These springs are not only heavier but they have a different angle between the short end and the long end so give more tension when installed in that regard as well.

As far as the front torque arm shock I have replaced one but just with the stock unit. If I were you I might try to rebuild the Fox shock as it should be a better shock. The missing bushing should be a replaceable item I believe but I am not positive about that.

Here is a short explanation regarding springs. The front torque arm shock and spring work more in conjunction with the front ski springs. The more you compress the spring on it the more the front of the track supports the front end weight of the sled which reduces some of the weight supported by the skis. Similarly if you crank up the tension on the front ski springs you carry more of the front end weight on the skis. With more weight being supported by the front skis you get sharper but heavier steering. The front torque arm spring also determines the bump absorption characteristics when you nail a bump with the front of the track. The shock itself determines the rate at which the bump compresses the spring as well as the rebound of the spring after the bump is gone. As volcano buster noted, the mounting position of the shock also determines how much effect the torque arm shock spring has due to the angle of the shock in relation to the skidframe. The front ski springs likewise determine how much the ski deflects upwards when you hit a bump.
The rear torsion springs (which you certainly need to replace) basically carry the back of the sled's weight along with most of your weight in that chassis. That's pretty much it in a nutshell. All the springs interact with each other so there are a multitude of adjustments you can make to dial in your riding preference.
If you lift the front end or tip the sled so there is no weight on them you may be able to turn the collar for the ski springs by hand.