So Arctic Cat your telling me.....

[Ausm7499]

Quick I feel your pain my 08M1k has been hard on belts since day one. I think the most miles I have ever gotten from a belt was 300 and that was before I knew how to really ride this sled. Lately I am lucky to get 150 before cords start pulling. I have not gone to the great extents you have to try and eliminate this issue due to money but I have been following every post about clutch heat and can't figure out why some people have this issue and some don't.

To all of those that believe this to me a simple fix such as washing your belts, align your clutches, vent your sled, switch belts, etc.... I am telling you all that this is not a simple fix something is f*ucked up from the factory that is causing this issue. I believe the primary is the major problem the reason is that I have gone through two primary rollers in under 1000 miles so something is causing this. I am going to send my primary off to be balanced and looked over and hopefully find some answers.

I too am very pissed at AC as they should be steping up and fixing this problem and should be giving out some belts but I too have been told by them that they will not warranty belts. I am a bigger guy and really like the added power of the M1k but I will be looking at an 800 for my next sled and it more then likely won't be an AC.

If anybody had legitamate ideas that may fix this issue I am all ears but I really don't want to hear that I need to wash my belt to fix this issue. As Quick I keep my sled extremely clean and everything is maintained after every single ride.

 

[mrquick68]

I've also washing EVERY single belt with soapy water before it gets installed. So there!!!

and yes, it just seems to be SOME 1000s, not all of them... weird...

 

[DonoBBD]

I have owned in the past three years, 07 m1000 clutched ect... ate belts every 225-300 miles especially when in the deep pow and long pulls!! hot clutches,

2009 m1000 clutched ,mods ect this to also ate belts approx 300 miles..put me over the bars at
300 miles in the deep pow!!!

My m1000 clutches were so hot after a pull or 2 that you would get a 3rd degree burn if you touched them,,

THEN I STARTED RIDING TM8'S now I own 2 of them anywhere from 7-12 pounds of boost,, make all the pulls you would like and clutches only get warm,, never hot.. one m8 is an 07 162 the other 09 153... how come these clutches do not get red hot?????? my belts look mint no cords fraying ect...

You have the power to smash the spring in the spider cup. Trust me look at your primary spring and spider cup on them too. It is fine but you will wear out the primary spring.

If you scuff your sheaves the burn marks and polish marks will tell you where you need to head with clutching. Works for me.

Don.

EDIT: I still have my stock 036 for my 05 M6 that I got my hands on in fall of 04.

 

[BigRed118]

Just throwing a thought out there, I was almost handed the wrong clutch alignment tool when I bought mine. There are 2 that are very close to one another. Just a thought?

 

[Moosedog]

I've got a buddy that it wouldn't matter what he had he would have trouble. Man does he let everybody know about it! I think his case is Karma though. None of you guys having trouble slammed the door on any little girls selling cookies have you?

 

[mrquick68]

I've got a buddy that it wouldn't matter what he had he would have trouble. Man does he let everybody know about it! I think his case is Karma though. None of you guys having trouble slammed the door on any little girls selling cookies have you?

ya - nope, no bad Karma here. I've bought TONS of girl scout cookies this year. In fact, i'm eating a Thin Mint right now!!!

seriously though (and i am eating a thin mint) - this is the first cat that's given me problems. My last 4 were great and if they did have issues it was purely my fault.

 

[Lucky Lyle]

Not claiming to be an expert, but the 1000 motor seems to shake a lot more than the 7 or 8. The 7 has a torque stop mount that they left off the 1000 that can be installed directly under the oil tank. Myself on my T7 I made a mount out of harder rubber to replace the one that fits against the diamond drive. Had to do this because I rolled the drive. I also no that some of the clutch side mounts guys have replaced with the harder or race mount. Some of the T1 guys also add another front clutch side mount. If all things are aligned correctly then maybe torque is the reason. Some or all of these things have helped a few guys that I no that had belt issues.

 

[catunder]

DonoBBD Question

DonoBBD, would you care to give a quick recommendation as to the spring brand and rate for riding at approximately 9000 ft for a stock '09 M8. I have a belt eater that two different dealers say is set up correctly. Thanks

 

[Needspeed]

Ok so maybe some of you don't work for Arctic Cat, or so you say. And your getting how many miles on your belts? Try riding that thing in the mountains! Like Quik said I ride my sled the way I have ridden all my other sleds, it is a mountain sled. I clean my belt and clutch sheaves every single ride I wipe out the whole clutching area and use compressed air to blow out the primary. I pull and wash the secondary with warm soapy water when I wash my belts, You talk about the BD belt deflection tool, well I'll send you the one that I have wore out from pulling the belt so many times, and yes I also break the belts in. I use the stock shims now for the belt deflection, until I can get a new one from BD. As far as do my homework, I don't think I paid for a brand new sled so I could spend my time do home work! I like to pull and go, but I aso maintain everything I own, above and beyond what any manufacter suggests. I'll be at the Fairview shootout, if you think you can fix this sled I'll be more than happy to meet you (you=nay sayers) and let you figure this thing out.

I'm going to try to scuff the sheaves this week and see what signs I can pick up. I usually wouldn't use something so abrasive on my sheaves that it would scuff, but its worth a try. I usually just use scotch brite pads.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

quick has done the research, he's has more info on here lately about clutching than anyone else so don't tell him he is b1tching. I think it would help if people would post what they have, and not just a little info but all of it,: springs, belt, helix, deflection, weights, elevation, rider weight, all mods to sled, every thing makes a diff. and how they ride and what the results are. last year I ran stock clutching on a slp piped 07 m1000 and it ripped without any unusual problems and no venting.
I am sure that my secondary spring in my 09 is much stiffer and have been told its the same, its not. 46 belt it works but shreds belts and the 60 pulls harder even with a bog. the lower I go in elevation the more the bog go's away though. Talked to a guy running a 44/36 stock springs and 73g weights at 8-9000ft and his sled is nearly untouchable, another guy tried to do the exact same thing and it would pull the 44, same elevation but different location with not as high of barometric pressure( less power). I have also heard of people regearing and running a 11" sec that are having good luck.

the 46 slips it can't be better than the 60 but no one wants to waste money trying to get it working right if anyone has let me know please.

 

[DonoBBD]

quick has done the research, he's has more info on here lately about clutching than anyone else so don't tell him he is b1tching. I think it would help if people would post what they have, and not just a little info but all of it,: springs, belt, helix, deflection, weights, elevation, rider weight, all mods to sled, every thing makes a diff. and how they ride and what the results are. last year I ran stock clutching on a slp piped 07 m1000 and it ripped without any unusual problems and no venting.
I am sure that my secondary spring in my 09 is much stiffer and have been told its the same, its not. 46 belt it works but shreds belts and the 60 pulls harder even with a bog. the lower I go in elevation the more the bog go's away though. Talked to a guy running a 44/36 stock springs and 73g weights at 8-9000ft and his sled is nearly untouchable, another guy tried to do the exact same thing and it would pull the 44, same elevation but different location with not as high of barometric pressure( less power). I have also heard of people regearing and running a 11" sec that are having good luck.

the 46 slips it can't be better than the 60 but no one wants to waste money trying to get it working right if anyone has let me know please.

You are 100% right hands down. I help a buddy on his F6 and tried what has worked for me on my M6 and his sled could not ever pull the same. Different gears and so on but cat has the same clutching recommendations for both sleds at the same elevation. After some time and noting the wear marks some small changes she flys. 111mph on a F6 90% stock clutching from 2005.

I am a firm believer in the Mag force clutch weights. They are full tipped and you adjust them with out taking them out. You just pop in magnets to adjust your weight and move you center mass around. I truly believe that the diamond drives primary needs more tip weight and higher spring rate for good back shift but that is me. Light weights could never hold the belt for me.


catunder Straight 38 degree helix with goodwin blue (it is now called Black/double violet) in secondary, and AC gold in primary, stock weights. The AC 36 with AC orange would run right with this in the deep, might be a tad slower out of the hole, but should top end as well or better. If you want more punch out of the hole, run a 40-36 progressive helix. It is important to run progressive helix's or keep the angle change to 4*s. The new purple primary spring is kinda nice too to play with.

Don.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

slp has a newer 44/36 angle helix that goes into the 36 sooner than later to make sure it pulls past the 44 into the 36. I think it would work well on my sled to get the bottom mid bog out but still trying to understand whats going on in the high end. The 46 it works but just wont get the power I think the sled has. It pull hard but only gets about 45mph track speed, on the trail it hit about 78mph and slowly climbs up but I've held it down for a mile and it barely hits 90mph. with the 60 it has a 1 second delay then hits high rpm and drops, with stock clutching it would hit 7550rpm and drop to 6950 at 9000ft and also has higher egt readings. 7000 ft it flat rips hits about 83mph and slows also hits high r's and drops to 7200rpm. one stage stiffer ( green/???) primary spring and 77 g weights around 7000ft very little delay hits 7650 and drops to 7350 still hits 83mph and slows but pulls harder than the 046. clutch sheeves show little wear, not enough to tell where its riding. on my 07 I could push in the helix to change a belt on the 09 I can't move it more than a 1/8" , even when off its very hard. seems to me like the sec. spring is to stiff and takes a little to get it caught up to the primary but then sling shots and shifts out to far and the primary holds it in place and the sec tries to backshift. the sled does backshift better than anything else. also might be why I can't hit high mph. with a 046 if I pin it on the trail it will scatter the belt every time. So far I've only got 123miles out of the 46 and 350 miles and still going on the 060, I even round tripped a hill 7 times in a row the belt lost power from heat but held up( at least a 10sec wot pull every run) my 07 had stock springs 68g weights and would hit 97mph in seconds and run between 50-60mph track speed, flat ripped, always used 046 but I can feel the harder pull of the 060 and want to make it work.
any Ideas that make sense, if my belts would hold up I could have bought all the clutch part to figure it out.

 

[mrquick68]

slp has a newer 44/36 angle helix that goes into the 36 sooner than later to make sure it pulls past the 44 into the 36. I think it would work well on my sled to get the bottom mid bog out but still trying to understand whats going on in the high end. The 46 it works but just wont get the power I think the sled has. It pull hard but only gets about 45mph track speed, on the trail it hit about 78mph and slowly climbs up but I've held it down for a mile and it barely hits 90mph. with the 60 it has a 1 second delay then hits high rpm and drops, with stock clutching it would hit 7550rpm and drop to 6950 at 9000ft and also has higher egt readings. 7000 ft it flat rips hits about 83mph and slows also hits high r's and drops to 7200rpm. one stage stiffer ( green/???) primary spring and 77 g weights around 7000ft very little delay hits 7650 and drops to 7350 still hits 83mph and slows but pulls harder than the 046. clutch sheeves show little wear, not enough to tell where its riding. on my 07 I could push in the helix to change a belt on the 09 I can't move it more than a 1/8" , even when off its very hard. seems to me like the sec. spring is to stiff and takes a little to get it caught up to the primary but then sling shots and shifts out to far and the primary holds it in place and the sec tries to backshift. the sled does backshift better than anything else. also might be why I can't hit high mph. with a 046 if I pin it on the trail it will scatter the belt every time. So far I've only got 123miles out of the 46 and 350 miles and still going on the 060, I even round tripped a hill 7 times in a row the belt lost power from heat but held up( at least a 10sec wot pull every run) my 07 had stock springs 68g weights and would hit 97mph in seconds and run between 50-60mph track speed, flat ripped, always used 046 but I can feel the harder pull of the 060 and want to make it work.
any Ideas that make sense, if my belts would hold up I could have bought all the clutch part to figure it out.

good info. What your saying about the 060 is exactly WHY i don't run them. I found them inconsistent - as when they are cool they act like a 046 (good rpms), but because something is off in your clutching (a full mph pull should not blow a belt! Even mine doesn't do that!!!) you are making a lot of heat, thus the 060 heats up and then pulls your rpms down as it get VERY sticky.

as a point of comparison this weekend i'll be trying a few things different to see if i can overcome this is horsechit belt issue.

1. for kicks, i'll trim the primary spring cup down...
2. a little steeper helix - a 42/36 progressive. Given my setup i feel i can pull more angle and have a very little heat in the secondary...
3. an M7 torque stop for the motor... got the parts in, now need to mount them up!
4. I may try a steeper finishing primary spring again, but so far my sled runs best everywhere with a steel ylw/wht. I'll only change this on the hill as for clutching purposes i'm only going to change the helix...

 

[mrquick68]

wyoBoy -

are you telling me your '07 m1000 pulled 50 to 60mph in powder at 9000ft!? Why did you sell it!? the 07 i used to ride with always pulled around 46 to 47mph with an SLP pipe on it.

My 08 with my current setup will get anywhere 48 to 53mph - is straight POW with no poach is settles right around 49mph regardless of the snow conditions. With just a little poaching though it will stay at 53mph when i get in the fresh - billy goat!

 

[Killerk]

Ok so maybe some of you don't work for Arctic Cat, or so you say. And your getting how many miles on your belts? Try riding that thing in the mountains!

Sorry to burst your bubble, but some of us do not have issues.
I ride my sled like it is intended to be ridden.
I guess Tony Grove Utah is considered flatlands?

Not trying to be a dink, but I follow these threads for information and also to help if possible.
I know that belt wear can be subjective, but my sled is put though the paces, breaking trail, and long pulls in DEEP pow.
I offer information to let others know that not all sleds have this problem.
If I knew why my sled has no issues and others do, I would share.
Fact is I have minimal mods, and have never checked alignment and have no problems.
If it aint broke, don't fix it right?
I have shared info and tried to help, but after posts like yours, whats the point?
Sorry to single you out, maybe I took it too personal.

 

[jeffro]

Just read this whole thread.... Been away for a while due to my DD taking a sh1t!

FWIW, I've read many of the 'belt problem' posts & really feel the pain for those with problems. I've had belt life problems and my M1000 hasn't run good enough lately to know if my problems are fixed or it's just running so poorly that it isn't an issue right now.

BUT, I do have a suggestion... Do any of you (mrquick) have friends with the same sled that DON'T have problems? If so, could you do a quick clutch swap of BOTH clutches to see if the problem follows the clutches or stays with the sled?
Then, *if* the problem is with the clutches, you could swap 'em back 1 at a time to help diagnose the problem a bit further.

I believe the problem might be related to inconsistent manufacturing of the clutches and some of them are just plain ol' JUNK! ??

 

[mrquick68]

Sorry to burst your bubble, but some of us do not have issues.
I ride my sled like it is intended to be ridden.
I guess Tony Grove Utah is considered flatlands?

Not trying to be a dink, but I follow these threads for information and also to help if possible.
I know that belt wear can be subjective, but my sled is put though the paces, breaking trail, and long pulls in DEEP pow.
I offer information to let others know that not all sleds have this problem.
If I knew why my sled has no issues and others do, I would share.
Fact is I have minimal mods, and have never checked alignment and have no problems.
If it aint broke, don't fix it right?
I have shared info and tried to help, but after posts like yours, whats the point?
Sorry to single you out, maybe I took it too personal.

don't take it personal Killer

some of us are just a little pissed that we can't figure out the problem and AC won't or can't help! You'd probably be a little less understanding if you were in our shoes. That being said, i agree that there is a problem but that not all of us have the problem. What is it!? Is it a bad clutch manufacturing issue??? What gives? I know of a large number of 1000s have issues but then some dont???

I would tend to think that maybe its the mods, but mine did this BONE stock too. The mods i've made should've only helped the clutching, but funny thing is the problem is the same as it is the same as it is the same. Nothing i've changed helps.

 

[Ausm7499]

Ill second the issue being unrelated to mods. I rode stock for all last season and couldn't resolve the heat issue and now with my mods it hasn't changed. I too was wondering if anybody could start swapping some parts out on a 1000 that doesn't have this issue and see if its the sled or the clutches. I would love to figure this out but unfortunatley I don't have money falling out of my pockets and between belts, rollers, gas, and oil it a fight just to make it out each weekend let alone trouble shoot this f*cked up sled.

Quick I hope you figure something out this weekend but I am not holding my breath. By the way how are you trimming down your cup on your spider? I do believe I have a binding problem cause I put a new spring in my primary this season and most of the paint is gone off of it.

 

[mrquick68]

Quick I hope you figure something out this weekend but I am not holding my breath. By the way how are you trimming down your cup on your spider? I do believe I have a binding problem cause I put a new spring in my primary this season and most of the paint is gone off of it.

i'll use a high speed grinder and take my time. did it on my M7 a few years back and worked just fine.

 

[Needspeed]

Killer K, Nothing I said was directed to you personally it was directed to the people on here flapping their jaws and not adding anything helpful, I can see where it may have looked like I was talking to you, I read through a bunch of posts and then replied, tried to cover to many subjects, and keep it short so sorry that it looked like I was directing anything towards you. I think i have seen a lot of posts by you that were intended to help, which is why alot of us are on here(looking for what works and what don't). As far as Tony Grove goes never been their so I couldn't call it flat land, or anything else for that matter.