Snow-Pro aluminum enclosed trailer man door security question.

[Rick E]

My 24' Snow-Pro trailer's man door is located on the driver's side.
Where the trailer sits, the man door ends up being out of sight.
The door lock is the typical style with a separate lockable back-set and a dead-bolt.
Although the area is well lit, I am concerns about a potential break-in.

I'm looking for ideas that would add additional security without looking or being hoky!

What have you guys done (if any) to add additional security that would make a potential break-in more difficult?

 

[Pine Rob]

Could install an internal locking system like a 2x4 the hangs on door and spreads across the frame then use the ramp door to exit and lock that afterwords

 

[Rick E]

Rob, thank you...... however, I would prefer something that allowed outside access.

The idea of installing upper and lower hasps and two pad locks is not very eye appealing.... but it would provide the extra security.

I wouldn't mind something like this bellow.
Hwever, I don't believe that any framing members exist where I would need to run bolts through.

 

[DUKHTR3]

A lock only keeps a honest guy out. All they need is a battery angle grinder and 20 sec to cut a paddle lock. Around here you have a better chance of them stealing the trailer. They steal them, clean them out and drop them off on a gravel road. I have a tongue lock and a switch to kill the tail lights. I am hoping if anyone ever hooks up to it they think twice with no tail lights. I also have good insurance on trailer and sleds inside.

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[Pine Rob]

A lock only keeps a honest guy out. All they need is a battery angle grinder and 20 sec to cut a paddle lock. Around here you have a better chance of them stealing the trailer. They steal them, clean them out and drop them off on a gravel road. I have a tongue lock and a switch to kill the tail lights. I am hoping if anyone ever hooks up to it they think twice with no tail lights. I also have good insurance on trailer and sleds inside.

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Agree with you 99.9% locks just keep people honest. But don’t think anyone cutting locks and stealing trailers will worry to much about tail lights. Especially when hobo freight sells magnetic lights so cheap that they could carry with if they cared about lights.

Rick, if the internal structure isn’t there you could always peel a wall panel and add on some additional bracing/structural support. I just redid the interior walls of our trailer and was easier than expected

 

[turbolover]

A lock only keeps a honest guy out. All they need is a battery angle grinder and 20 sec to cut a paddle lock. Around here you have a better chance of them stealing the trailer. They steal them, clean them out and drop them off on a gravel road. I have a tongue lock and a switch to kill the tail lights. I am hoping if anyone ever hooks up to it they think twice with no tail lights. I also have good insurance on trailer and sleds inside.

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Correct Sir. A lock only keeps an honest person honest. As part of my job I have to remove locks that are rusted, stuck, broken and many other reasons for no access. Many times you don't even need a grinder, too many sparks and noise. If you know what you are doing, you can usually be into them as you said, 20-30 seconds. Especially if you don't care about the lock. May take a few minutes if you don't want to damage the thing it's attached to though.

As for trailers, those are so easy to steal. Even with a tongue lock. Hook up the safety chains and away you go. a thief won't care if it's properly hooked. He'll take that lock off later at a different location without all the attention.

 

[Rick E]

Thanks guys!

Just to clarify...... I'm not worried about someone stealing the trailer.
I am worried that someone might pry that man door open, and steal my tools, clothing, accessories, etc.
Those little factory door locks are pretty whimpy.

 

[meathooker]

I used to travel a lot for racing (sometimes in bigger cities) and this has always been a concern. I screw a D ring and the inside of the door then use a ratchet strap to hold the door closed from the inside. Then back the trailer up to a wall or light pole so your can’t get there back door open.

 

[Rick E]

I appreciate all of your suggestions.

The idea of added security from the inside is great! I have even considered installing solenoid latches on the inside, perhaps using a keyed switch that is accessible from outside.
However, I want a "would-be" theif to see the additional security from outside.
If they were to see it from outside, it may prevent them from prying at the door only to learn that it is secured from the inside, therefor leaving me with a mess to repair.


Also, I am not able to back the trailer up against a wall that would prevent entering from the rear ramp.


Anyway, please keep the ideas coming.


.

 

[TurboSportTSi]

No good suggestions from me, as I've been looking at doing something for the man door as well. The factory lock is definitely not stout. I don't even bother locking the handle, just the deadbolt, as the handle is the one place someone could get a grip on other than a prybar in the door jam. Would probably bust off anyway before causing real damage...

I haven't taken physical security very seriously once I was looking at those fancy $100-200 locks that encapsulate the hasps...and then realized that all someone would have to do is cut the aluminum locking bar, which is more than likely 6061-T6 and could be cut in seconds by just about anything. Boom, ramp open. I have basic locks on everything lockable, in contrasting colors so they are visible and hopefully makes any would-be thieves move on, although this thread makes me want to go see if I can tie my safety chains into my u-bolt style coupler lock...sure couldn't hurt!

Been legitimately looking at GPS-based trackers with geofencing capability, since the locks are basically just a visual deterrent, but it sure couldn't hurt to have some kind of sticker stating that the trailer has a motion activated GPS tracking system or something along those lines. Assuming such a thing would even be read in the first place, I don't think anyone wants to make off with a trailer, only to have a ticked-off owner or the police show up wherever they end up. Not sure if this is available or would have to be custom, but should be very inexpensive and might be reasonably effective.

Prevention is priority #1 and a quick recovery is priority #2. I know a lot of guys will say 'that's what insurance is for,' but I've put a lot of work into my trailer and it would take time to replace everything lost, especially these days! I, for one, don't want to lose any significant amounts of time that my family & I could be riding.

 

[gonehuntnpowder]

I don’t store anything in mine, but I use a boot and 2 different tongue locks. All 3 are fairly easy to defeat, but there is 3. My plan is to stop someone isn’t sure they want to be a thief, and a real thief will find something easier. Might be different if there was 60k worth of sleds in it, but I never store anything in it. Don’t lock the door, let them look in it. Sets in a very well lit place..... probably get stolen tonight. What do I know.

 

[Rick E]

Well, I did it. I went with the aluminum bar lock system.

It isn't all that tuff, but it is visible and will help keep the honest theives away.

 

[TurboSportTSi]

Looks great! Where'd you source the parts? Was the install straightforward?

 

[Rick E]

Thank you! I bought the aluminum bar lock from DaySpring right here in my own town. $106 and change

The installation was super easy.

However, my hinge bolts are right up against the vertical framing member. The bolts did tighten up..... just not how they would tighten if they penetrated a framing member.
I will eventually pull the interior skin back and will add an aluminum framimg member for these.

As I said earlier, the appearance of the bar lock will hopefully cause a "would-be-theif" to think twice!

 

[Carl Arnold]

There are several options you could consider to add additional security to your trailer's man door:

1. Reinforcing the door: You could add additional metal plates to the inside of the door to make it more difficult to break into.
2. Adding a bar lock: Installing a bar lock on the inside of the door that extends from the door frame to the door handle can add extra security.
3. Installing a deadbolt: Adding a deadbolt to the door, in addition to the lockable back-set, can make it more difficult for a potential intruder to break in.

 

[Coldfinger]

In addition to other measures, install a wireless alarm system.

I had one in my camper. My system cost $350 back in 2006.

I had a base unit which includes a motion detector, 106db alarm, 2 remote controls and rechargeable battery. Also included a cordless remote motion detector.

I also purchased an external alarm, but I never used it because it had to be hard wired to the base unit and I didnt feel like routing the wires to the outside of camper.

A local sheriff told me, in his opinion, once the thieves hear the alarm sounding they are going to leave quickly.