This is a dedicated thread for the Engine Armor product made by Selkirk Snowbike out of Coolan, ID. This setup has been discussed in a couple different threads, but not dedicated thread for pictures, build tips, field use, etc.
My particular build was on a 2020 YZ450F and 2020 Yeti 129. I mixed the Selkirk Engine Armor with C3 products that I'd already ordered. I'll note that Selkirk intended their kit to be used with the thermobob stat and their coolant-heated bars, but with adapters (available at Selkirk), the setup can easily be plumbed with the C3 thermostat and/or C3 heated bars which use much smaller lines than the Selkirk heat exchanger lines. The optional selkirk heated bars use larger lines than the C3 bars.
The Selkirk heat exchanger is on the thermostat bypass circuit; not the thermostat-open, radiator circuit like I'd assumed when I ordered. Marc explained his logic so I plumbed it as he intended and will see how it performs.
The heat exchanger on the Yamaha engine armor is on the front of the lower snowshield so in front of the engine. On the KTM/Husky, the heat exchanger is mounted to the skidplate so under the engine. The lower snowshield stays in place full time. The skid plate unbolts with 4 bolts for oil changes. The two upper side shields remove with 1/4 turn fasteners and you can run with or without them depending on conditions. The front radiator shields (these flow air) stays in place all the time but there is a solid radiator cover that goes on and off with a 1/4 turn fastener. It is centered and leaves the upper and outer portion of the radiators unblocked and flowing some air. Marc said he had, or would have, available a front cover that blocks off even more, if not all, of the radiator air flow but found it wasn't needed very often. Seems like it would be good to have one for those very deep powder days.
The heat exchanger can unbolt from the snowshield (on Yamaha) or from the skidplate (husky/KTM), but that shouldn't be needed too often. Since it's on the snowshield for the Yamaha, it's up front so out of the way for oil changes and the skidplate comes completely off and be be set aside. On the KTM/Husky, the heat exchanger is on the skid plate so when you unbolt the skidplate, it may hang in the way of draining oil from the pics I've seen. For KTM oil changes, I'd recommend putting a plastic bag over the skidplate/heat exchanger so the oil doesn't hit it directly as you drain the oil. Then pull the bag off and toss it or keep it for the next oil change. Will save some cleanup compared to draining the oil onto the heat exchanger/skidplate.
On my kit, I used a Selkirk provided adapter on the C3 thermostat, rather than the c3 provided fitting, to adapt to the larger selkirk diameter hose that runs to the heat exchanger inlet. Then another selkirk provided adapter, on the heat exchanger outlet to size down to the small C3 hose that runs up to the C3 heated bars. From the bars, the small C3 line goes down to the C3 provided silicon collector hose.
You must either trim the rear of your front fender, change to a smaller supermoto front fender or do away with the front fender all together. On my last 2 snowbikes, I've not run a front fender at all and plan to do the same with this build. For me, the front fender just seems to always get in the way if digging by the front ski, etc. and I like the look (old dakar bike look). Admittedly, the look takes some getting used to and is not for everyone. Ha.
As discussed in another thread, the Selkirk engine armor is expensive, but I took into consideration that it replaces an engine blanket, radiator covers, skid plate, pipe guards plus it has the heat exchanger to add coolant volume and keep ice melted out of the snowguard. Add up the cost of all those items and you get very close to the selkirk engine armor price. Considering that, I decided to try the kit on my new build. For a new build, it makes sense. Perhaps less so if you already have a skidplate, pipeguards, engine blanket, etc.
When I purchased mine, no instructions were available. I had a few false starts with panel and bracket installation order that required uninstalling, and reinstalling. Marc and Monica were always very responsive (both email and phone). Once the instructions became available, the install was pretty quick and straight forward. I love the look and am hopeful for the function.
I'll run it this year plumbed as it was intended, though I really would like a setup that has a heat exchanger in the radiator circuit. The C3-made tunnel heat exchanger only works with 2016 to 2019 Yeti kits; it will not work with the 2020 Yeti due to a new aluminum brace in that area. Word is C3 may evaluate the new 2020 Yeti design to see if there may be some other heat exchanger location options, but even if a design was identified, it will be a fair bit out. (If any 2020 owners are interested in heat exchangers, drop C3 a line and ask them to look into it. The more interest, the more likely they will consider evaluating it).
I'll start with a couple pics of the finished product.
My particular build was on a 2020 YZ450F and 2020 Yeti 129. I mixed the Selkirk Engine Armor with C3 products that I'd already ordered. I'll note that Selkirk intended their kit to be used with the thermobob stat and their coolant-heated bars, but with adapters (available at Selkirk), the setup can easily be plumbed with the C3 thermostat and/or C3 heated bars which use much smaller lines than the Selkirk heat exchanger lines. The optional selkirk heated bars use larger lines than the C3 bars.
The Selkirk heat exchanger is on the thermostat bypass circuit; not the thermostat-open, radiator circuit like I'd assumed when I ordered. Marc explained his logic so I plumbed it as he intended and will see how it performs.
The heat exchanger on the Yamaha engine armor is on the front of the lower snowshield so in front of the engine. On the KTM/Husky, the heat exchanger is mounted to the skidplate so under the engine. The lower snowshield stays in place full time. The skid plate unbolts with 4 bolts for oil changes. The two upper side shields remove with 1/4 turn fasteners and you can run with or without them depending on conditions. The front radiator shields (these flow air) stays in place all the time but there is a solid radiator cover that goes on and off with a 1/4 turn fastener. It is centered and leaves the upper and outer portion of the radiators unblocked and flowing some air. Marc said he had, or would have, available a front cover that blocks off even more, if not all, of the radiator air flow but found it wasn't needed very often. Seems like it would be good to have one for those very deep powder days.
The heat exchanger can unbolt from the snowshield (on Yamaha) or from the skidplate (husky/KTM), but that shouldn't be needed too often. Since it's on the snowshield for the Yamaha, it's up front so out of the way for oil changes and the skidplate comes completely off and be be set aside. On the KTM/Husky, the heat exchanger is on the skid plate so when you unbolt the skidplate, it may hang in the way of draining oil from the pics I've seen. For KTM oil changes, I'd recommend putting a plastic bag over the skidplate/heat exchanger so the oil doesn't hit it directly as you drain the oil. Then pull the bag off and toss it or keep it for the next oil change. Will save some cleanup compared to draining the oil onto the heat exchanger/skidplate.
On my kit, I used a Selkirk provided adapter on the C3 thermostat, rather than the c3 provided fitting, to adapt to the larger selkirk diameter hose that runs to the heat exchanger inlet. Then another selkirk provided adapter, on the heat exchanger outlet to size down to the small C3 hose that runs up to the C3 heated bars. From the bars, the small C3 line goes down to the C3 provided silicon collector hose.
You must either trim the rear of your front fender, change to a smaller supermoto front fender or do away with the front fender all together. On my last 2 snowbikes, I've not run a front fender at all and plan to do the same with this build. For me, the front fender just seems to always get in the way if digging by the front ski, etc. and I like the look (old dakar bike look). Admittedly, the look takes some getting used to and is not for everyone. Ha.
As discussed in another thread, the Selkirk engine armor is expensive, but I took into consideration that it replaces an engine blanket, radiator covers, skid plate, pipe guards plus it has the heat exchanger to add coolant volume and keep ice melted out of the snowguard. Add up the cost of all those items and you get very close to the selkirk engine armor price. Considering that, I decided to try the kit on my new build. For a new build, it makes sense. Perhaps less so if you already have a skidplate, pipeguards, engine blanket, etc.
When I purchased mine, no instructions were available. I had a few false starts with panel and bracket installation order that required uninstalling, and reinstalling. Marc and Monica were always very responsive (both email and phone). Once the instructions became available, the install was pretty quick and straight forward. I love the look and am hopeful for the function.
I'll run it this year plumbed as it was intended, though I really would like a setup that has a heat exchanger in the radiator circuit. The C3-made tunnel heat exchanger only works with 2016 to 2019 Yeti kits; it will not work with the 2020 Yeti due to a new aluminum brace in that area. Word is C3 may evaluate the new 2020 Yeti design to see if there may be some other heat exchanger location options, but even if a design was identified, it will be a fair bit out. (If any 2020 owners are interested in heat exchangers, drop C3 a line and ask them to look into it. The more interest, the more likely they will consider evaluating it).
I'll start with a couple pics of the finished product.
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