Selkirk Engine Armor

Chadx

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I'll have to hold off answering that as i have many other mods I've done that i hope to post tonight and it's the combination of those mods that have me running acceptable temps. More to come. That being said, it's reasonable to say that almost everyone will benefit from covering radiators in the powder whether using a selkirk kit, another brand or a home made engine surround.
 

wwillf01

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I run 180 to 200 just with all the stock selkirk covers on an 18 ktm 450sxf with a get ecu.

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‘18 Husky fx 450, stock ecu tunes by Chris Blais Racing, Selkirk armour with all panels, Selkirk heated bars with pipe insulation on exposed parts of bars, left radiator blocked off. Today was -8 C, deep powder and my bike ran 150-170 in the pow and 200-210 on the trail. Bar heat was definitely better than before bar insulation and left radiator block. I’m going to make a right side radiator block for the deep snow riding.
 

wwillf01

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‘18 Husky fx 450, stock ecu tunes by Chris Blais Racing, Selkirk armour with all panels, Selkirk heated bars with pipe insulation on exposed parts of bars, left radiator blocked off. Today was -8 C, deep powder and my bike ran 150-170 in the pow and 200-210 on the trail. Bar heat was definitely better than before bar insulation and left radiator block. I’m going to make a right side radiator block for the deep snow riding.
This is what I did plumbing wise to make the bars work way better than the Selkirk original plumbing... I added a line to the equation to make this work. Bars are always toasty now ...


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Chadx

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Similar to past snowbikes, on this build I used closed cell foam around the engine to help keep it warm in powder. Here is what I did a few weeks ago with my 2020 YZ450F and Selkirk engine armor. I've used different foam for these projects each year depending on what I had available. Last bike had a gardening kneeling pad between the engine and skidplate and a vinyl fabric rear engine cover. This time, I used a square of exercise mat sourced from the attic when I was looking for an old camping pad that I originally was going to use. This foam is perfect for this use.

I have three main areas where I added foam:
- One section goes under, and in front of, the engine and is cut to fit between the YZ frame rails. It runs all the way up in front of the engine between the engine and frame and this mat is thin enough to sit flush with the frame rails so the Selkirk skid plate still fits normally.
- The second piece goes between the selkirk rear engine guard plastic and the engine. As you can see from the under-engine photo, this piece runs all the way down to under the engine to the skidplate. I'd originally trimmed it to sit right against the engine, hence the notched-out section, but that portion ended up sticking straight up rather than curving down to touch the engine so the notch was unnecessary. Since it sticks up, I trimmed a corner so there is clearance for the YZ exhaust which wouldn't be an issue for other brands. Also since it sticks up, I may redo it to be wider and taller in certain areas, but this has worked well so far (4 rides counting yesterday).
- Third area covered is between the Selkirk side panels and frame. The Selkirk engine armor has gaps at the rear and this foam filled those nicely on each side. I shaped it with an upside-down U notch so it is sits over the footpeg bracket and the top between the selkirk 1/4 turn fasterner and the selkirk mount. No adhesive or tiedowns needed. Sits in place and doesn't move.

These pictures were taken while I was doing an oil change. I have three rides on the foam at that point and four rides after yesterday's ride. Temps average 160 - 180 in the powder which is pretty good for cold running Yamahas but this is due to a combination of things including the radiator covers I posted a few posts ago, this foam, and I also replumbed my selkirk heat exchanger so it is on the radiator circuit rather than bypass circuit. I wanted to wait for 4 rides before sharing that info and I don't think it is necessary, but for me, I like it. My C3 thermostat has an internal bypass so some coolant is flowing through radiators and selkirk heat exchanger at all times. My bypass circuit flows only to heated bars. On the trails, I remove radiator covers and run about 175 to 185 (thermostat is a 194). Thermostat only seems to open when I get into really slow going mogul/whooped trails and am not moving air. I'm very happy with this setup.
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wwillf01

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Very interesting. how Do you find engine temps are with your plumbing compared to stock Selkirk plumbing?
Temps are the same... but you get the warm coolant before it goes through the engine cooler so your bars are always warm... now I don't need gauntlets when it is really cold and wear just wind stopper klim gloves all day. My temps are always 180 to 220 ...in the powder..

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800tundra

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What is everyone doing on their YZ’s regarding snow and/or slush buildup under their shifters? Tried two seperate shifters now. Rivot a blanket type material around opening? Something that wont hang up shifter or freeze stiff? Curious how you guys have dealt with this.
 

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Chadx

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What is everyone doing on their YZ’s regarding snow and/or slush buildup under their shifters? Tried two seperate shifters now. Rivot a blanket type material around opening? Something that wont hang up shifter or freeze stiff? Curious how you guys have dealt with this.
I used reinforced nylon tubing over my stock YZ shifter as mentioned in earlier in this thread: https://www.snowest.com/forum/threads/selkirk-engine-armor.452323/#post-4333544 . I've not experienced any ice buildup impacting shifting.
But are you saying you are seeing the buildup inside the selkirk armor which impacts the shift lever from moving up/down? I wonder if that is snow condition specific, foot placement specific, etc.

Now I have encountered a lot of snow/ice build up behind the rear lower selkirk panels that flow backward to the Yeti kit. It is packed solid with ice behind each panel (chain is totaly encased and block of ice on the other side). I'm wondering if it collects there due to the dead air and if less would collect if I cut the selkirk side panels to not have the wings extending backwards. Hard to undo once cut so need to compare with others riding yeti kits without a selkirk to see if they get ice buildup in the same areas. That will at least give me some data to consider. I also get a huge block of ice in the Yeti pocket directly in front of the tunnel gas can. Again, might be aggravated by the dead air space created by the Selkirk panels extending backwards but need more data before I'm willing to cut off the wings.
 

800tundra

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I feel it is coming in through shifter opening .
Fyi this in deep snow and cooler conditions. I tried covering opening more with my foot to test but that pretty tricky. Yes (mostly) trying to shift down .
i stop i clear out the hole with my fingers and doesnt seem to be much past what i can reach. But i will keep an eye out as you suggested.
 

G-Force

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What is everyone doing on their YZ’s regarding snow and/or slush buildup under their shifters? Tried two seperate shifters now. Rivot a blanket type material around opening? Something that wont hang up shifter or freeze stiff? Curious how you guys have dealt with this.
Can you glue a chunk of neoprene on the inside of the armour, and cut a hole for the shift peg/shaft? that should seal that channel off from snow ingestion, and still give your shift shaft ability to travel
 
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