Being able to tune in the field (only way) with a Boony box is it's bonus.
One of the nice features is adding a capture button. Ride in the rpm area you feel is questionable, release the button and stop and read the exact rpm., throttle position to make any changes.
It also shows how much fuel is added or subtracted already so you can make a very informed decision on what to change exactly where.
If you don't know which way to go (leaner or richer) you can change this button to TUNE function. With it in this mode, while you hold the button depressed it adds or subtracts fuel according to how you set it up in the NOS menu.
IE., you can set it up to add 10% while depressed or subtract 5% while depressed Or any number you feel you want to work with. Kinda like punching in the #'s but instant. Really handy at WOT on a hill while watching the MPH.
When I start with something new I set up the map to be very rich (10% at least). If using the button, I set it up to subtract 4% fuel and ride around and start tuning from low rpm up to high rpm.
Hold the rpm steady, push the button to subtract fuel and listen and feel the motor. If better make the 4% change in the box and move up to the next rpm level. Resist the thought of trying to perfect one area. Only do one fuel change at a time per rpm range.
Eventually you will get to WOT. That's where I do a plug check and if still rich I start at the bottom again and do it all over. If close I leave it 'cause a rich 2 stroke is better than a lean 2 stroke in my book.
Then I do an "aggressive with the throttle" run and recheck to see if the plug stayed safe. 9 times out of 10 it'll be good but if it shows leaner you need to think about the accelerator function. I smile when this happens because it means you've added power and are loading your motor beyond stock.
Fine tuning, meaning actual plug chops, is much easier with the button too. In CAPTURE mode find the exact spot you wish to check. Watch the stats screen to get to this spot and hit the kill button. No guessing on throttle position or rpm you did the chop at.
Use the TUNE mode on the button (add or subtract fuel) to chop and check before you change the map for good. The benefit of button use over just punching in the map change is you get to feel and hear the change a few time with just a touch of the button. Easier than trying to remember how it was after stopping and making some changes then heading out again.
Another handy feature if you change altitude a lot and have your sled set-up (compression, clutching) for the higher part is having a richer map in place for the trip up and down. Helps keep the sled cooler and longer life for modded ones. I even add to the accelerator pump on this map to blip blip some extra fuel in like the good ol' carb days.
IMO very rarely will you get correct #'s for your sled on the internet.
