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Exactly what i was thinking.....
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Yeah, this is just there answer to the jackshaft nut loosening itself, which they probably think is everyones belt issue because all dealers can only get there customers belts if they "find something wrong" so dealers now have a way to give customers one belt, instaling this kit and sayin theres was loose weather it was or wasnt.
Well cat fixed an issue we snowesters knew about 4 months ago. Now lets see how long it takes them to realize and accept that theres a belt issue even if that nut is tight!
-Aksnopro
Everyone needs to bring their sleds in and get the update done, even though it won't fix the belt problem, and then continue to report the blown belts to their dealers. Maybe Arctic Cat needs to get some training in Root Cause Analysis...
I now have 300 miles on my PC. It is running GOOD, knock on wood.
I had to tighten the nut in the chain case at 100 miles, it is still tight, I check it every time I come back from a ride. I have dropped my primary weights to
68 gr. at 8000 feet from the 70 gr. Like I posted earlier I marked my belt with a silver marker and rode Sunday for 30 miles. All the marker is gone except for a
32nd of an inch on the very top of the belt, I can just barely see any trace of silver marker. I have every crack, seam,opening, covered with pet screen from home depot. Brake rotor covered. I am pulling more heat on belt and clutches than I like but I am not blowing belts. My deflection is on the loose side.
What I have noticed is the driven clutch sheaves twist, this allows the rollers to not contact the helix all the time. By doing this the clutch is relying on only the spring to hold belt tension. My thoughts are, if you get something in your clutch to cause slippage (snow dust, water, oil ) and it sucks the belt down into the sheaves because of lack of resistance to up shift. This will cause instant heat and blow belts. Am I correct in thinking this. If the rollers
are not in contact with the helix then you are relying only on the narrow bushing in the movable sheave to stay straight and maintain correct contact with the belt.
Give me your thoughts on this. If the nut is tight from the first recall then I think the shims will go in the Curad box.
I have not run 90 MPH just to test out blowing a belt because I am afraid of what the out come may be.
RickM