Post forward along with frunk.

[klarkkentster]

Saturday I will be installing my post forward kit in my 22 Turbo along with Ski Doo's front trunk for the one piece hoods. Curious if anyone has also done this and was there any problems when you trim the new piece that comes with the frunk? There are a couple small tabs on that trim piece just curious if anyone else has experienced any issues.

 

[Idahodoo]

Yeppers - I just done the post forward about a month ago, the modification of the hood / airbox was a little unnerving just don't overheat it but all in all it was a easy job IMO. Install Video

I also put a set of regular handle bars that comes on a Summit SP, I like the larger diameter handholds & the Powder grips way better than the Expert ones.

The Lightweight glove box was super easy to install the trick is mark it out grind a little test fit grind a little more until it just goes over the keeper hooks . I also put in a double USB power plug, really like it. Whatever you have inside stays warm

 

[Idahodoo]

Must be using voice to text did you mean Trunk ?

 

[High Voltage]

I did both last fall. Takes a lot of heat to do the remolding of the air box, but take your time it’s not hard.

 

[klarkkentster]

Must be using voice to text did you mean Trunk ?

Nope - Frunk = front trunk

 

[Idahodoo]

 

[klarkkentster]

What tool did you two use to cut the bezel?

 

[High Voltage]

What tool did you two use to cut the bezel?

DEWALT 20V Max XR Oscillating Multi-Tool​

 

[Idahodoo]

There are many things things you could use, whatever tool you can control, I personally prefer a heat gun & utility knife work great. Its the same way I cut the area out for vent kits. You get a nice clean cut. Heat the area to be cut out, don't cut out too much because you cant put it back if you do. Note: the hood heats up alot faster than the air box.

My kit came with a short piece of aluminum pipe to mold the air box & hood after heating them up. Heat bend test fit, test fit then repeat until they clear the upper steering post mount.

I used the heat gun to heat up the support for the gauge (heat it up from bottom side) so you discolor the top side or melt the decal, it is tougher than the air box. After I cut it out I fine tuned it for fit with a die grinder.

 

[klarkkentster]

There are many things things you could use, whatever tool you can control, I personally prefer a heat gun & utility knife work great. Its the same way I cut the area out for vent kits. You get a nice clean cut. Heat the area to be cut out, don't cut out too much because you cant put it back if you do. Note: the hood heats up alot faster than the air box.

My kit came with a short piece of aluminum pipe to mold the air box & hood after heating them up. Heat bend test fit, test fit then repeat until they clear the upper steering post mount.

I used the heat gun to heat up the support for the gauge (heat it up from bottom side) so you discolor the top side or melt the decal, it is tougher than the air box. After I cut it out I fine tuned it for fit with a die grinder.

I pretty much got it finished. Just can’t get the holes to line up near the steering post. I formed the air box a couple times and can’t really see where it’s hitting. Any ideas what I should check on?


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[High Voltage]

I pretty much got it finished. Just can’t get the holes to line up near the steering post. I formed the air box a couple times and can’t really see where it’s hitting. Any ideas what I should check on?


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I kept heating and remolding until success.

 

[Idahodoo]

Yeppers heat check fit reheat until success