Need suspension help on my pro!

[imrede73]

Just picked up my first mountain sled and need help tuning the suspension, its a 2012 pro 800 155 and i weigh 175 with no gear on, i know i need a ton of seat time but don't want to get used to the wrong set up so i looking for an experienced carver and sidehill rider around my weight who can tell me all their shock spring lengths (skis,fts,rts)and limiter strap length (holes). The sway bar is off, Thanks for any advise!

 

[SRXSRULE]

The factory spring setting work very well for your weight. Front ski shocks, with the sled jacked up. The spring length should be 10.25", thats just the spring, not the spring seat or the adjuster (all the measurements are done this way). FTS, (again the track needs to be off the ground) 8.50". RTS 10.375".

From this base line setting about the only thing you need to adjust if the FTS, go 1 turn harder or softer and see what you think. FTS, shorter spring installed height = more pressure on the front of the skid which means more weight transfer when on the throttle and less ski pressure.

I highly recommend hooking the sway bar up as it comes from the factory. Eric

Forgot to mention the limiter strap is NOT adjustable.

 

[imrede73]

The factory spring setting work very well for your weight. Front ski shocks, with the sled jacked up. The spring length should be 10.25", thats just the spring, not the spring seat or the adjuster (all the measurements are done this way). FTS, (again the track needs to be off the ground) 8.50". RTS 10.375".

From this base line setting about the only thing you need to adjust if the FTS, go 1 turn harder or softer and see what you think. FTS, shorter spring installed height = more pressure on the front of the skid which means more weight transfer when on the throttle and less ski pressure.

I highly recommend hooking the sway bar up as it comes from the factory. Eric

Forgot to mention the limiter strap is NOT adjustable.

Thanks for the info i will try these settings, don't have the sway bar and there is other holes in the limiter strap.

 

[SRXSRULE]

with no sway bar your gonna have to go stiffer on the front ski shocks. Removing the sway bar is not advised with the stock shocks, makes the sled unpredictable. The limiter strap is non adjustable from the factory so someone has changed that so thats gonna change everything in the rear. Good luck, your kind of on your own with those 2 changes done to the sled which isnt a good thing if this is your first mountain sled. Eric

 

[CO Powder]

Sounds like the PO rode a railing arm sled before the Pro and tried to apply that set-up... LOL

You really need to run the swaybar or upgrade the shocks. The amount of spring preload you need to stabilize the sled doesn't work with the stock shocks. I think you are going to have a tough time making it work well with what you currently have.

I weigh 50 lbs more than you and ride with the fts showing 3/4" of threads. Run it loose, helps the sled climb on the snow. I run the rts a couple turns tighter than the book adjustment. If your strap is adjustable I would be a little concerned that the skid has been changed, is it for sure the Pro coil over skid?

 

[imrede73]

Sounds like the PO rode a railing arm sled before the Pro and tried to apply that set-up... LOL

You really need to run the swaybar or upgrade the shocks. The amount of spring preload you need to stabilize the sled doesn't work with the stock shocks. I think you are going to have a tough time making it work well with what you currently have.

I weigh 50 lbs more than you and ride with the fts showing 3/4" of threads. Run it loose, helps the sled climb on the snow. I run the rts a couple turns tighter than the book adjustment. If your strap is adjustable I would be a little concerned that the skid has been changed, is it for sure the Pro coil over skid?

Far as i know it is the original skid, just noticed that the limiter strap has more holes in it, haven't rode any other pros so i don't have anything to compare it to.

 

[littleredstroker]

I broke my sway bar bushings after doing a drop earlier this season, (#fatkidproblems), I read about dudes pulling them off anyway so I left it alone. I have WE clicker shocks and it was a absoloute nightmare... the ONLY time it was as good as stock was in DEEP pow carving. I would advise to buy a sway bar... I was not used to it and took a moderate 45* turn going 30 or so, weight all shifted to the outside of the corner and about rolled it...

After 2 seasons on this chassis coming from a 97 rmk my opinion is that if you have to remove the sway bar to ride you are doing something wrong. It works just fine with sway bar installed

 

[Johnny T.]

Ditto on putting sway bar back in. The other thing i've seen on my sons sled the bottom ends of the shocks were hitting the springs and wearing the sides of the shocks off. I think this comes from the body roll changing the geometry?