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Moto's Meager Mods - Nytro MTX

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MotoPsycho

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Jan 4, 2008
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Moto's Meager Mods - Nytro MTX... *11-15-08 UPDATE*

I thought I'd start a thread to share some of the stuff I've done to my sled. It will come in installments... Here is a sneak peek of the tunnel mod.

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MotoPsycho

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The extrusion was the worst part, and it's amazing how hot aluminum can get after you hold a torch on it for a few minutes :rolleyes:.

As far as the angles, a really good template to begin with saves alot of sheet metal in the longrun! ;)
 
F
Nov 26, 2007
221
18
18
Bighorns Wyoming
Pics dont do this mod justice !! Moto you did one hell of a job ! You can hack up my next sled no problem lol Btw who cleaned up the garage before you took the pics?
 
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evan3000

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Dec 8, 2007
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Red Deer Ab.
Looks Awesome!!! I am in the middle of the exact same mod. It seems like nobody can stand the look of the stock tunnel. I know that was the first thing that I wanted to change when I seen these sleds for the first time.
 
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MotoPsycho

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A BETTER, Better Board Install

I am a HUGE fan of F-Bomb’s Better Boards. That being said, I have developed what I believe is a better installation. This installation will eliminate mounting to the very weak factory sheet metal at the outside of the boards, as well as narrowing the Nytro “surfboards” by approximately ½” per side. (This equates to about 36 sq in. of total area that won’t be hanging up in the deep pow-pow)
Note: Use this guide in conjunction with the installation instructions included with your boards.

Mark original board as below (red line), and cut with tool of your choice (I used a die grinder and cutting disk)

bb1.jpg

Cut from the very front of the board (under the plastic) all the way to the tunnel extension. (File all sharp corners to a radius to prevent cracking in the future) This is what you should end up with:

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Be sure to cut straight forward from the center of the forward diamond, leaving the bodywork-retaining rivet mounting hole:

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Position B.B. approximately ¼” back from bulkhead

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Pull front boot-block-off panel back to B.B. (position panel UNDER B.B.)

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Use a rubber mallet or deadblow to move support bracket toward tunnel approx. ½”.

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This will narrow the original width of the running boards approx. ½” per side. The pic shows the gap that will now exist between the board and the bodywork.

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Drill through the center of each tab that was left at the tunnel edge, then rivet accordingly. Then, drill and rivet each tab on the outer extrusion, followed by trimming of any tabs that may protrude into the B.B. openings.

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Here is what your rivet pattern will look like:

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jehay

Member
Mar 15, 2008
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wow great job i have one question... Is the running board lip attached to the tunnel some how in the back or does it just look that way
 
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MotoPsycho

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wow great job i have one question... Is the running board lip attached to the tunnel some how in the back or does it just look that way

I don't know if I follow your question exactly...

The rear of the running board is attached to the tunnel extension and rear drop bracket (as per included instructions)

The vertical part of the B.B.'s are also attached to the tunnel as per included instructions.

If you are asking about the running board extrusions, at the top of the new foot boards.... they were not attached to the tunnel when I took the pics - they are now, as I heli-arc welded them to the pad you see on the side of the tunnel.
DSC01000det.jpg


Do any of those answer yer ????'s
 
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jehay

Member
Mar 15, 2008
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camrose, alberta
I don't know if I follow your question exactly...

The rear of the running board is attached to the tunnel extension and rear drop bracket (as per included instructions)

The vertical part of the B.B.'s are also attached to the tunnel as per included instructions.


Do any of those answer yer ????'s

If you are asking about the running board extrusions, at the top of the new foot boards.... they were not attached to the tunnel when I took the pics - they are now, as I heli-arc welded them to the pad you see on the side of the tunnel.<<<<<<thanks
 
S

SNAFU

Member
Nov 26, 2007
237
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Calgary
Moto, I had the same basic idea for cutting the tunnel and folding the running boards up. I had it pictured in my mind and built a cardboard template. What I am planning is not quite as radical as what you have done but it is great to get a visual. Thank you for posting these pictures you did a great job.

Was it difficult to bend the running board extrusions?

Also, what is heli-arc welding exactly? Is it a special process for welding aluminum? Sounds like it has something to do with using helium as the shielding gas???
 
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MotoPsycho

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Was it difficult to bend the running board extrusions?

I used a propane torch to heat slowly, without melting the aluminum. Yes, it sux! Once it is hot enough to start bending, keep pressure on it and bend in 1 fluid motion - not a bunch of room for error.

Also, what is heli-arc welding exactly? Is it a special process for welding aluminum? Sounds like it has something to do with using helium as the shielding gas???

AKA - Tig (tungsten inert gas) welding. Very similar process to gas welding, but uses an arc with an inert shielding gas (usually argon - or, yes, helium) to create the molten puddle, rather than a flame.

You could also have it welded with a MIG "spool gun", but the finish generally doesn't look as nice (unless you have a VERY talented welder).

You should be able to take it to any local welding or machine shop to have the welding done.
 
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MotoPsycho

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The great wheel debacle...

I got a great set of OEM Yammi wheels the other day. I did a 2 wheel conversion on the rear, and the wheels fit, and look, B-E-A-YOU-TEEFULL. They looked so nice, I thought I'd buy a set to replace the upper idlers as well...

That's where the problem started.

The idlers use a different bearing than the rear axle. The new wheels will not accept the stock idler bearing. They will however, accept a stock bogey bearing... with a bit of work at the machine shop, and the nightmare associated with cutting the bearing out of a bogey wheel, I got them installed.

You can use the smaller "bogey" version of this OEM billet wheel at the idler wheel location, but that requires the use of 8" wheels on the rear axle so the track will clear the rear shock on a timbersled rear end. Problem here is, Yammi only makes the wheels in the small bogey size (5.5" I think) and the stock 7" for the rear axle.

Anyway, for the price, I still came out ok including the machining cost.

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skidooboy

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Nov 26, 2007
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central lower michigan
looks great. i had to play with the upper idlers on my mxzx440 custom project a few years ago. the doos run an offest upper rear idler. that was a fun mod. i told myself, unless it was easy, i'd never mess with the upper rear idlers again. LOL! ski
 
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MotoPsycho

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Jan 4, 2008
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Wyoming
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looks great. i had to play with the upper idlers on my mxzx440 custom project a few years ago. the doos run an offest upper rear idler. that was a fun mod. i told myself, unless it was easy, i'd never mess with the upper rear idlers again. LOL! ski

Yeah, speaking of offset wheels, I was going to use the stock rear axle wheels for the two wheel conversion, but guess what.... they're offset and wouldn't work!:mad:

Moto you get the exhaust done yet ?

Figured out the mount system tonight, but Tommerup didn't get the midpipe built today...:rolleyes:
 
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