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M1000 reed replacement;TPS adj; drive shaft bearing replacement; tank replacement

Dec 7, 2007
Elkhorn NE
Just got done doing some maintenance on my 09 M1000. Here are a few of pita's that I dealt with.

Reeds, pulling the intake boot out, just grab the bottom with a channel lock and pull, should come out fairly easy: not the way I first tried until I did a search on sw. Throttle body, make some 5/16 extension about 3 to 4 inches or so for the coolant lines. I went to ace hardware to get the couplers and hose, otherwise with out removing the belly pan almost impossible to hook them up. Reed are pretty straight forward I have delta 3 and did have a few issues with getting right pedals and quantity right, on the reed cage there is a number on the top that you have to use when ordering replacements also that is for one cage so like the m1000 uses a 904 cage you need to get 2 replacement pedals. Also youtube has some good videos showing how to take apart a delta reed cage.

Adjust tps, you need a constant 5 volt source and a volt meter, find a old phone charger with a usb connection, there should be a black and red wire that is your positive and negative when you cut the wire, you will have to solider as they are too small to use a crimp connection. On the tps connector there is black or dark green that is negative and red (positive) and white (signal). I used alligator clips to put 5 volts to it and used a my volt meter to read the signal. You will have to get creative with tape to secure the black lead from volt meter to negative alligator clip. I removed the throttle body so I could work on it much easier than on sled. You will have to minimum and maxim volt reading to set it, each model will be slightly different. M1000 is Idle 0.591-0.699 Full open 3.477-4.054. Mine was at .55 at idle, I set it to .62 idle and wot is 3.72. To adjust voltage you loosen the screws and turn tps until you get voltage set within specs, I paid a dealership 700 for a tps install on an 02 800 6 years ago.

Drive shaft bearing replacement, Not too bad but you will need exact tools to do the job correctly. To get the brake assembly out and off the shaft you need to take the pressure off the shaft either by removing suspension or using a large pry bar in shaft. The easiest is to remove suspension. I did use a small puller on assembly and pry bar at the same time. To get the bearing out you need to separate the outer bearing from the spacer with a hammer and screw driver. Once you have some separation you can use a punch to remove the outer bearing, there is a snap ring that you will have to remove before the inner can be removed. I use a regular bench vice and some washers and old bearing to push out the inner. Install is not that easy, I tried to freeze the two bearings(sat in below 0 freezer for 3 days) and they did not fall into place, even after I heated up the assembly. I went to an automotive shop that had the right bearing tool for the press, it took him 15 minutes and charged me 20.00. Pretty fair. If you do this your self you need to get the right sized pipe or bearing press with the correct tolerance to push into the assembly. You could take the bearing and make something yourself, that is the only way it will go in with a press. I did have an issue with hydraulic fluid upon re assembly, I used the brake to hold the shaft to get the nut off the shaft, I forgot to release the brake and oil shot out when I removed the lines. If this happens to you the master cylinder will not self prime you will have to do a reverse bleed. Basically get a syringe and small hose to force fluid through bleed screw.

Tank was a breeze, 4 bolts, seat is Velcro on( did not know that). Getting pump into tank took some finesse. Really no issues or unexpected procedures came up pretty straight forward. I did have to drill out on tork head bolt on the oil tank and use a vice grip to remove the stub, (really like Ace hardware for fasteners) ace had the replacement screws in hex form.
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