Looking to upgrade from my M to a ProClimb - questions

[Clark42]

Hi all, I've been riding an 09 m8 for a bit now and am looking to upgrade to the proclimb chassis this year. It seems like each year the chassis got improved a lot, and I'm just looking for some direction on which year sled to get based on experience.

So basically my search has narrowed to a 2104, or a 2016. I can afford either, but I could get the 2014 for considerably less money than the '16. I just want to know based on experience, is it worth it to pay an extra few thousand to get the '16?

Also, are there any major issues with either of the year sleds listed above? (For example, my M has the dd bearing and steering post issues) Anything to look out for while checking out either sled?

Any feedback would be great, Thanks for looking.

p.s. Have a sweet 09 m for sale if you know anyone looking

 

[MNCF1000]

Get a 16 limited. Better clutches, narrower front end, 3" track.

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[DDECKER]

yes 16 and newer is worth every penny yes the 14s are a lot better then the 09 but the 16s are the next stage

 

[sno*jet]

dont be affraid to stretch it a couple more g's if you see a 17MC, youd get half the stuff they are advertising new on the 18s. narrow boards, foot farther forward, small percent increased tilt angle, dropped case... a chit ton of labor for you to upgrade on an older model.

 

[sledhead685]

I just did the same upgrade, definitely go for the 16. The 3" track is a monster, the rear skid works awesome, the clutches work great, and the front end is way better. I rode it for a couple weeks stock and was absolutely blown away vs my M8. Then I did gearing, clutching, and narrowed running boards and got blown away a second time. Has completely changed the terrain I ride. Was quick getting comfortable with the chassis and getting it dialed in for me.

 

[Joks79]

I made the upgrade from an 08 to a 16 this past winter. I could have gotten a 15 or 14 for a lot less. The new clutches and the front end is well worth it. I did have a problem with my clutch and it was replaced under warranty. The sled is so easy to get on its side. Anyone with a pre 15 needs to put the new front end on if they haven't already. I do plan on putting some narrow boards on mine this summer.

 

[kidwoo]

I'm just here to back what everyone else just said. Don't mess with 2015 or earlier if you have the option.

 

[snoballssnoglory]

I'm just here to back what everyone else just said. Don't mess with 2015 or earlier if you have the option.

Ditto. It's enough of a difference to justify the cost if you can afford it.


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[hughesfoundation]

I would say it depends on the cost. I have had three ProClimbs, 12,14,and 16. The 12 was a piece of crap, the 14 was a great sled and the 16 is better yet. I really liked my 14 but had a stage3 and was clutched perfect. I went to the 16 for the track and front end and also put a stage 3 on it but haven't got it dialed in but i am very close. There is no doubt the 16 is a better sled, I would rate the improvements in order ...Front end, track, then maybe the rear skid. All could be done to the 14 but much easier to just buy the 16. I would say the 16 is a couple thousand dollars better.

 

[Clark42]

Thank you to all who chimed in! Looks like the new ones are the way to go.
Nobody answered - are there any repeating common issues that've occurred on these??
Now just have to sell the old M....

 

[sledhead685]

The DD bearing and steering post as you mention are the only repeating issues on the M's that I can think of, and those are gone on the proclimb. I would say getting a steel lower gear in the chain case on a 16 is a good thing to do, but I've never really heard of catastrophic failures because of it. That's all I can really think of.


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[sno*jet]

Thank you to all who chimed in! Looks like the new ones are the way to go.
Nobody answered - are there any repeating common issues that've occurred on these??
Now just have to sell the old M....

where did you buy it? i think thats the issue in WA. lack of good dealer. by good i mean going thru it before they give it to ya. track tension, alignment, air bubbles in oil line, apv cables in spec.... i would go thru your manual when you get it and check over everything. then change out the chaincase oil after a couple good rides if you want the al. bottom gear to last. JMO. At least just check the track tension before you ride it like ya stole it and you're probably fine. congrats man!

 

[hughesfoundation]

Thank you to all who chimed in! Looks like the new ones are the way to go.
Nobody answered - are there any repeating common issues that've occurred on these??
Now just have to sell the old M....

I would do a manual chain tensioner.

 

[boondocker97]

If you get a 16 limited then change the lower gear from aluminum to steel, regear to 2.33 ratio (makes it same overall ratio as a sled with 2.62 and 8T drivers), and put in a manual chain tensioner. Notice these are all easy to do at the same time. Put Frogzskins on all the openings going under the hood.

 

[kidwoo]

As someone who geared up a 2016 LTD and then switched it back while just going to 8t drivers........

Leave the gearing and just stick 8t drivers in there. It just lets the drive to the track work better. Gearing up (went one tooth on each) still just felt like the thing was trying to stretch it's legs and not getting there.