Someone might find this interesting. I have a 13 XM and a 13 Freeride 137. (Low altitude calibration from factory on the 137.) Dealer told me he put threaded pins in it for my altitude, he mentioned I may need a spring, but to try it. 5000-8500 feet. This sled has been a pain in the arse since day one, on one trip I thought it fouled plugs it was backfiring so bad and wanting to die. Got it to the dealer, he pulled three different codes, egt sensor ground, exhaust valve sticking or something, and one more. It was still in break in and stopped doing it after I shut it off, they couldn't replicate, so we decided to finish break-in and see what happened. Still did weird stuff, took it back, they had to replace the EGT harness. Still doing odd things, I have around 800 miles on it now. It has the "Etec bog" that both my sleds have had since day one, not so much a bog but a flat spot at 1/4 throttle, where if you hold it there, it will go, but take a couple seconds to kick in and rip. My sleds do it, the demos I rode do it, a bud's does it, my brother who rides ONCE a year commented on it, my bud who rented a sled in Utah did it. Anyway, I tried a black/purple spring in the secondary after killing my first belt at 650 miles on the Freeride, mostly river and lake/trail running, very little climbing, and pretty easy on it. Wasn't happy with the backshift or the 650 miles to a belt, so did the spring. BIG mistake, clutches so hot they boiled snow, killed a belt in 50 miles, spent the next 50 trimming cords so as to get home and not have to ruin another one doing it. Once I got to level trail, I installed new belt, cruised back at 40mph, 1/4 throttle or less, little blurps to move the sheaves around a bit. When I put the new belt on, you could see the mess on the sheaves, dark with rubber. (Not pure rubber, just discolored from the melting belt going around.) When I got back I put the stock spring in and noticed that the little 10 mile belt break-in cleaned the sheaves nicely, as far up as they shifted. Seems that too much spring in the secondary was causing the clutches to fight each other, I must have been dragging that belt through the secondary and causing massive slippage. I did like the backshift, but obviously I made a mistake. Another complaint, I am going through almost 3/4 tank of oil to 8.5 gallons of gas. SO anyway, that was the last of three days riding that sled, the next two days I rode my Summit. Wow. The low end flat spot on that one is still there, mostly noticeable on trails. But runs a ton better than the Freeride.
So I dropped the Freeride off at the dealer again (not the dealer that I bought it from that messed with the weights), and they took ANOTHER look at it. They found that my exhaust valve solenoid was causing the valves to get confused and open/shut at certain rpms, and to move slowly. (They ar eprobalby sticky with all the oil I have burned, well over 6 gallons of oil in 1300 miles on two sleds. They also said the original dealer put 417 weights in it, and that 413 should have been stock and Skidoo calls for 441 at my altitude. They are changing the clutching to see if the odd clutching is causing the solenoid to get confused.
ANYWAY. I have posted this many times before, we should not have to deal with this strange flat spot on the bottom. My Freeride (though obviously has other issues) is scary to ride, whenever I go to do a jump or drop, I hold it wide open first to make sure it is going to not backfire/cut out on me and kill me.
I talked with someone who owns a 13 XM, and rode a 14 models, he says the throttle response is TOTALLY different on the 14, super snappy. They obviously changed the ECU mapping. SO why are all of us 13 owners stuck with this flat bottom end? Answer is because Skidoo is not going to voluntarily offer a warranty remap that costs them money. I personally have had the dealer call them several times, I am going to start hassling BRP until I get a Summit that runs right!
Rant over, I rode those things easy for 600 miles thinking they would run right after break-in, then when I realized that wasn't the case, I let them sit for a long time, they are not even that fun to ride when they won't run right.
Chris
So I dropped the Freeride off at the dealer again (not the dealer that I bought it from that messed with the weights), and they took ANOTHER look at it. They found that my exhaust valve solenoid was causing the valves to get confused and open/shut at certain rpms, and to move slowly. (They ar eprobalby sticky with all the oil I have burned, well over 6 gallons of oil in 1300 miles on two sleds. They also said the original dealer put 417 weights in it, and that 413 should have been stock and Skidoo calls for 441 at my altitude. They are changing the clutching to see if the odd clutching is causing the solenoid to get confused.
ANYWAY. I have posted this many times before, we should not have to deal with this strange flat spot on the bottom. My Freeride (though obviously has other issues) is scary to ride, whenever I go to do a jump or drop, I hold it wide open first to make sure it is going to not backfire/cut out on me and kill me.
I talked with someone who owns a 13 XM, and rode a 14 models, he says the throttle response is TOTALLY different on the 14, super snappy. They obviously changed the ECU mapping. SO why are all of us 13 owners stuck with this flat bottom end? Answer is because Skidoo is not going to voluntarily offer a warranty remap that costs them money. I personally have had the dealer call them several times, I am going to start hassling BRP until I get a Summit that runs right!
Rant over, I rode those things easy for 600 miles thinking they would run right after break-in, then when I realized that wasn't the case, I let them sit for a long time, they are not even that fun to ride when they won't run right.
Chris
