I'm Done With It-No More T-Xp...Parts for sale

[turbo800]

Well boys, I dropped the deto piston with half con rod off at a local race engine builder and he is of the opinion that it " hydrauliced". Again this is just an opinion. So for the sake of chits and giggles, I am going to remove the case tonite and make a little gopro vid so that the images are more clear and we can get a real good look at the damage. He showed me some deto pistons and they look nothing like mine, but that doesnt mean it didnt deto. The hydraulic would explain why there were no symptoms of deto, no codes, no knock sensor and the fact that it suddenly happened without warning. I dont know why it would hydraulic but he has seen it before on his own 04 rev turbo.
Anyway, I off to make a vid. Will post shortly.

Oh yeah, wont be getting the octane checked in my drum....anyone want to guess how much that test cost.......

Dr. Evil voice.....One million dollars....lol

Does that mean you were burning antifreeze in his opinion to hydrolock? I have seen a piston left running on a antifreeze leak, it had traits of deto but the whole exhaust side of the piston was radiused off...down to the ring grooves.

 

[hivoltagesledhead]

LOL.....1200 buckaroonies to test the octane !!!!! He never said if was antifreeze. Figured I got a lot of extra fuel in there some how...bad seat on the needle...bumpy trail....who knows. Just uploading a vid now and you can see the damage way better. Sure takes a long time to upload a short vid.

Here is the link
http://youtu.be/5XVBZK_0ax8

 

[maniac mechanic]

Running too much fuel pressure will for sure lead to a senario that could cause it to hydrolock. The average needle and seat can hold aprox 6 lbs of pressure, above atmosphere. So you can really only have 6 lbs more fuel pressure, than your boost. If the fuel pressure is higher than that, you will run into all kinds of tuning issues, all caused by the fuel forcing its way through the carb, not letting the carb to work properly.

 

[hivoltagesledhead]

My base fuel pressure is 4 lbs, at least thats what the gauge said. The highest it has ever been set at is 5 and I've even tried turnng it down to 3. Really starting to think that it is my ecm. Could be my fuel pressure regulator.....

 

[hivoltagesledhead]

Kit for sale under swapmeet.

 

[CHAZWILDMAN]

Nice looking Kit I must say!! Hate to see you give up but I understand all the frustration. It took me a yr to get the bugs worked out and the best thing i did in my opinion is start with a fresh short block from ski doo. It has been a long road but its true once you getting everything working it is a fun sled.... Good luck with the sale!! but i think you should not give up and I'm only saying that cause i think i quit on this thing about ten times lol.. And the reason I have mine for sale is that i must like the pain and suffering cause i really want to turbo my pro rmk...

 

[hivoltagesledhead]

2yrs, 3 top ends,turbo parts and one complete enfine failure.....dude....I am done. May have been my crank from the very beginning or my ecm, but I am not willing to risk another engine to find out. I have to draw the line and take my losses at some point. Just want to get another engine and ride now.

 

[CHAZWILDMAN]

Don't blame you a bit... They can take a toll on the soul and pocket book. I am scared to add up what i have in mine

 

[taylorbok]

turbo kit- $5000
rear suspension -$2500
race fuel - $450
complete new motor -$3500

out climbing your buddy - $... priceless

 

[turbo800]

Running too much fuel pressure will for sure lead to a senario that could cause it to hydrolock. The average needle and seat can hold aprox 6 lbs of pressure, above atmosphere. So you can really only have 6 lbs more fuel pressure, than your boost. If the fuel pressure is higher than that, you will run into all kinds of tuning issues, all caused by the fuel forcing its way through the carb, not letting the carb to work properly.

I don't completely agree with this statement. I was having fuel pressure regulator issues with mine. It was pinning my gauge at 30psi when my electric fuel pump would kit on with the Hobbs switch, only running 10lbs boost. The sled would run strong but a touch richer than normal on the AFR. I do agree that excess FP creates tuning issues and a short needle and seat life.

 

[maniac mechanic]

I don't completely agree with this statement. I was having fuel pressure regulator issues with mine. It was pinning my gauge at 30psi when my electric fuel pump would kit on with the Hobbs switch, only running 10lbs boost. The sled would run strong but a touch richer than normal on the AFR. I do agree that excess FP creates tuning issues and a short needle and seat life.

Yes your correct, they can hold more than 6 lbs, but you actually just verified the statement, you said it was running richer than normal. That is a tuning problem! I bet you were wondering what the problem was, until you found the cause. Imagine if you were told you could run that pressure, it would have taken a lot longer to figure out why it was running richer than normal.
Also it depends on how your floatbowls are vented, if the signal to the float bowls is on the weak side, such as in off boost situations, the problem would be worse.

 

[gus bohne]

Turbo 800,, you are correct,,
All of my systems run as much as 15 psi over boost not 1 single issue ever period.

Once you understand that when under boost the carb is no longer a carb in the std sense you will see the entire picture..

the dead give away is needle seat size. when you can run a 2.5 at 15 psi over and still not flood out the engine,, AND still find even better fuel curves that have NO lean spots you will understand.. get out of the boxx,,, its boring in there.. lol


fuel is cool.. Shaun, you had a bad rod from Jakes first deto session with your sled,, egged rods will build heat that you cant stop till you change the rod.. sorry bud .




Gus

 

[hivoltagesledhead]

You could very well be right, Gus. There is absolutely no reason why my sled shouldn't have been running like a raped ape. I am very tempted to buy a new engine and try one more time....but my spidey senses say don't do it. Just cant afford to blow another engine !!!! Gonna go with a BB.

 

[maniac mechanic]

when under boost the carb is no longer a carb in the std sense

Gus

Gus I was wondering if you could please elaberate on the above statement of yours? I am always wanting to learn new stuff and this is new to me. I am fully aware of how and why a carb works Naturally Asperated and now I am schooling myself on the effects of boost on said components. Sounds like you have an understanding of this.

 

[PJ-Hunter]

WOW! My setup seems to be running great. Once I got the powerjets dialed back in from kids dinking with the remote adjusters. Which I gotta redo now cause I messed with it and forgot where I had them set. Such a dumbas$.

I'm running staight 100ll at 8500' and up and it pulls hard. I was hitting the Rev limiter. Don't know why. Prolly just ended up breaking the now motor in.

But, here's a dumb question. To the ear, what does DETO sound like. I have heard it sounds like a pinging, knocking. Wouldn't the Stock DETO sensor alert you?

 

[Octanee]

WOW! My setup seems to be running great. Once I got the powerjets dialed back in from kids dinking with the remote adjusters. Which I gotta redo now cause I messed with it and forgot where I had them set. Such a dumbas$.

I'm running staight 100ll at 8500' and up and it pulls hard. I was hitting the Rev limiter. Don't know why. Prolly just ended up breaking the now motor in.

But, here's a dumb question. To the ear, what does DETO sound like. I have heard it sounds like a pinging, knocking. Wouldn't the Stock DETO sensor alert you?

stock deto sensor, well i dont know if you would know when it does something, it would maybe richen it up and retard timing, but most people, lightly tighten spark plugs, go for a quick pull, come back and check them, have they loosened any? if not then chances are you do not have detonation,

but as far as detonation sensor alerting you, i bought a "knocklink G4" and you tap it into your knock sensor, and its supposed to be good at listening for knock, however i would say from my experience, dont overly trust it until you ahve probably 3-4 rides with it so it can learn to your engine, i know my 2 rides its deff became more accustomed to my engine and will be a useful tuning tool in the future, as it gets smarter and more accurate every ride

 

[PJ-Hunter]

stock deto sensor, well i dont know if you would know when it does something, it would maybe richen it up and retard timing, but most people, lightly tighten spark plugs, go for a quick pull, come back and check them, have they loosened any? if not then chances are you do not have detonation,

but as far as detonation sensor alerting you, i bought a "knocklink G4" and you tap it into your knock sensor, and its supposed to be good at listening for knock, however i would say from my experience, dont overly trust it until you ahve probably 3-4 rides with it so it can learn to your engine, i know my 2 rides its deff became more accustomed to my engine and will be a useful tuning tool in the future, as it gets smarter and more accurate every ride

Do you have a link for that?

 

[Octanee]

Do you have a link for that?

http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/knocklink_g4

 

[PJ-Hunter]

Thanks. And my plugs definitely aren't loose. I'm gonna order that thing tomorrow. What did it cost?

 

[Octanee]

Thanks. And my plugs definitely aren't loose. I'm gonna order that thing tomorrow. What did it cost?

300 bucks, small price to pay i suppose when it will probably save your arse, or later down the road it might be a useful tool if you want to turn up boost or run lesser octane fuel or what ever