DC Power on a PRO

[philsummers21]

Well i have made up my mind. Going to order the oem polaris electric start wiring harness, the fuse panel/relay from painless and a battery. I will be running the turbo oil pump, boondocker box, boondocker EBC,air fuel gauge and possibly the boondockers intercooler fan unless its ok to leave it as is. So my question is whats the smallest best battery for this application. And any opinions on the intercooler fan, as is or to fuse block.

Would this battery be a good choice?
http://antigravitybatteries.com/ag-401/

 

[TRS]

Working on this again. Mirrored the clutch side for a mounting bracket.

 

[Skeld]

What would the method be for wiring a GPS and heated visor plug on a 2012 without a battery? Right now I have the Polaris 12V accessory plug to run one or the other, but I would like to be able to run both at the same time.

 

[mountainhorse]

Working on this again. Mirrored the clutch side for a mounting bracket.

CRAFTY!!!

Nice work on the bracket... Sanitary work for sure.

I'm still a bit dubious of the LiOn batteries with the primative charge regulation on the sled... Awaiting your long term.... Got any templates for that plate???

Punch/Flare tool or did you roll that by hand?




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[TRS]

CRAFTY!!!

Nice work on the bracket... Sanitary work for sure.

I'm still a bit dubious of the LiOn batteries with the primative charge regulation on the sled... Awaiting your long term.... Got any templates for that plate???

Punch/Flare tool or did you roll that by hand?




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Thanks,Eric
Yes sir, I made a paper template. Punch is from my Mittler Bros. collection.
We will see on the battery. It's application is for a 50cc bike. Dealer had one. Should have consulted Murph, and purchased one from him.
Thought about Velcro and tape, but opted for the rubber hold down. It's the tool kit strap on a TRX. Milled out the tabs on the bracket and gave them a little set.

Headed for Disneyland (Beartooth's) right now. It's snowing.

 

[Merlin]

Working on this again. Mirrored the clutch side for a mounting bracket.

Looks good & should work equally as well! :yo:


Please let us know how the battery stands the test of time.

 

[TurboMatt]

I posted my setup earlier in the thread. I ran it this way l all last season running my wideband o2 and turbo oil pump off of it. This year nothing changed but it would not run my oil pump and it fried two Innovate gauges. When I test voltage when the sled is running it tested with good voltage. No ac current. What could have gone wrong? Could something go wrong with my battery to cause the system to fry my innovate gauge? I have it all pulled off for now and am running everything off the stock changing circuit. Its a mystery to me.

I was able to get everything hooked up tonight and I figured I would post some pics for anyone else looking to do this.
I used the UB1213 battery that was posted earlier in this thread. One of the main reasons I didn't want to use a battery was that I didn't want more components in the way for when I needed to work on the sled. I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible. But, as I turns out I needed the battery. After kicking around many different mounting locations the spot I came up with that would protect the battery, hold it tight and keep it out of the way was the factory tool pouch on the left side of the sled. The battery fit perfect in there and I can still fit the spark plug wrench, belt change tool, emergency start rope, and 2 stark plugs in there as well(not in the pouch anymore). I picked up a waterproof relay, a fuse holder and used the harness I got from off road rider. I didn't use a "fuse block" like others posted. I wanted all of the components on 1 fuse so I know that if my a/f & egt gauge go out that I lost power and my turbo oil pump is not longer getting power anymore either. I didn't want to add a "dummy" lite for the oil pump.Once again trying to keep things simple.
I'd still like to come up with a smaller battery, but I don't know what I could use that would be smaller. Anyone have any ideas?
I haven't gotten to actually ride the sled yet, but I did make a couple immediate observations from running the sled in the shop:
-The sled starts up so much nicer. Over the summer the only changes I made to the sled where that I installed a new fuel pump and the EGT gauge. I assume the EGT gauge doesn't take much juice to run, but my sled started noticeably harder this season. Even when warm. It would take 2-4 pulls to get it to start when warm and sometimes up to 10 when it was cold in the morning. The sled now fires on the 1st pull everytime.( I havent gotten to try it cold yet). I'm assuming this is because the fuel pump and ECU are now getting the needed power to actually work properly on the 1st pull.The other thing is my sled has always idled low. Dash would be flickering, battery light would sometimes flicker on, sled would run rough. Now my sled is able to idle a 1400-1500rpms(yes I know this is low) without the dash lights flickering or the a/f gauge giving my the E9 low power error.
Any questions let me know.

 

[TRS]

I posted my setup earlier in the thread. I ran it this way l all last season running my wideband o2 and turbo oil pump off of it. This year nothing changed but it would not run my oil pump and it fried two Innovate gauges. When I test voltage when the sled is running it tested with good voltage. No ac current. What could have gone wrong? Could something go wrong with my battery to cause the system to fry my innovate gauge? I have it all pulled off for now and am running everything off the stock changing circuit. Its a mystery to me.

Had a lengthy conversation with Murph, last night, concerning a battery for this application.
In a nut shell, the battery must have capable cells. If it doesn't, it will pop a cell and toast your electronics. The PRO has very dirty power. It needs a battery that can sustain 14.4v. Murph has a battery that is capable and is the size of 4 AA cells. The battery I am using will work also.
I hope Murph will chime in here, this is his field of expertise. Thanks Murph.

 

[gopher-it!]

Battery

I am currently using a 8 cell 9amp hr. anti gravity battery , 300+ miles and all is good so far.

 

[mountainhorse]

I'm getting together the parts for a more robust, clean-DC Power System... Work has me slammed so prob nothing till this weekend....
but here's an idea of some of the parts.

This setup...with some other components, will give me a clean DC Power supply on the pro... about 20amps worth... and I'll be able to turn
off headlights etc without worry of "cooking" anything and will not need a battery unless I choose to use one...
If I do... It will be the little "baby" EarthX Lithium battery with the BMS. (4.5in (L) x 2.6in (W) x 3.7in )

http://earthxmotorsports.com/shop/etx6a/

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[MacDawg productions]

Wow!! Just read this thread. And now I'm concerned where I should hook up my
Oil pump for turbo, and associated gauges!! Crap. I'm sure many
R just tapping into dc power via headlight and clutch area plug. That's what
I intended to do....... But not anymore!!!

 

[AndrettiDog]

Wow! That was 1.5 hours of reading for me. Great information. I'm concerned as my Silber kit runs on the DC with no amp and I was planning to add in the new X-2 boost gauge. I'm a little confused, MH are you going to use the estart harness at all? Or does your plan not need that w/o battery use?

 

[MacDawg productions]

Wow! That was 1.5 hours of reading for me. Great information. I'm concerned as my Silber kit runs on the DC with no amp and I was planning to add in the new X-2 boost gauge. I'm a little confused, MH are you going to use the estart harness at all? Or does your plan not need that w/o battery use?

Lol!! Copy that. This should be a sticky!!!!!!!!

 

[TRS]

Looks good & should work equally as well! :yo:


Please let us know how the battery stands the test of time.

Battery and system held up last season. Started the sled today and all systems are working fine. It had a short "off season" though, last ride was July 4 with Matt Stoxen from Dobeck Performance. :face-icon-small-hap

 

[mountainhorse]

My plan is to not need to use the E-start harness and have a stand alone power supply, with multiple fuses that does not need a battery (unless you want to).

It will run a clean enough PLUS have the flexibility to not run headlights or handwarmers.

I'm also going to run a voltage indicator/monitor so that I'll know the status of the system, great to know if you have an electric oil pump.

MacDog, I'm sure I'll get flamed for saying this... and from people who say they have run AFR's with oil pumps and fans... all from the "DC PWR" plug without fuses.... But I can say with confidence, that you are inviting expensive issues if you do.... The mfgs of many aftermarket systems tell us to draw from the "DC PWR" plug by the clutch, but they don't understand the system completely.


If you want to get a fairly clean DC power supply for your accessories... plug and play... You can plug into the "AC PWR" with the corresponding TYCO connector... route that into a full wave bridge rectifier of sufficient capacity, tie in a decent sized capacitor of say 4700uF to 10,000uF across the (+) and (-) of the output, run that into a nice compact fuse block and call it good.. All for a small amount...This method, however, does NOT allow you to remove your headlights or run other headlights that have diminished power draw (like LED's in place of the halogens)...

I'll see if I can throw together something like this as well... should be less than $50 to do this... and you wont have to rely on the E-start DC output to do this (which has been shown to be finicky)




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[AndrettiDog]

I agree, make this a sticky mountainhorse. It's just a matter of days before someone starts a thread asking information on this topic.

 

[mountainhorse]

Good Idea...

I think I'll put together one sticky with lots of topics listed in it...Kind of a "Look Here First" kind of thing.

Right after the "honeyDoo" list for the weekend.

Too many Stickies clutters up the forum.




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[mountainhorse]

"pindallout", a member of this forum will be going the basic Connector/Recifier/capacitor route running from the "AC PWR" connector... For a nice clean install... He's running a fan for venting with it.

If you use a decent sized cap, you can get "fairly clean" power from this setup for a small investment.






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[pindallout]

MH is being modest. After some discussion with him and learning about the system, I see the error in which people are making with using the DC Power (exception very LOW amp items and using the 2amp protected DC Power). After I complete the "powered fan venting" I will post pics of the AC "conversion" on both my venting post and on this post.

Again thanks again MH for the insight. I am sending you a pm with the capacitor that I chosen.

 

[pindallout]

Here is an example of how to wire up a Safe DC power Source. Of course I wish I came up with it on my own....... but, that would not be true....... all the thanks go to Mountainhorse and picking his brain.

Follow the LINKY:

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=379400