Cylinder Gasket - How to remove from block???

[Joemt]

I removed the Cylinder from my 2002 800 RMK due to the broken VES bolt with the broken Easy out in the broken bolt (different thread).

1. I got the cylinder cleaned up and I used spray gasket remover (stuff works good). But I wasn't sure about using it on the bottom cylinder gasket on the block due to over spray???? What works? those gaskets are on there like cement.

2. How in the hell do you torque the two cylinder nuts in the front of the sled???? Is there room for a socket and torque wrench?

3. Embarrassing Question: Like a dumb ***, I started on the wrong cylinder, meaning I loosened the nuts. Do I know have to replace that gasket even though I did not attempt to remove the cylinder???? I was so mad at myself.
I just tightened the nuts back up and still need to be torque to proper specs.

4. I also noticed some type of sealant at the top of the head bolts...real light blue in color. What is this stuff and how should it be re applied when re assembling?

Thank you

Joemt

 

[Lake Cle Elum]

1) I've used gasket remover and razor blades to get the old gasket off the case. Use a small piece of cardboard to limit over-spray.

2) To properly torque, you can buy a wrench at a tool shop. One end is either an open or box end. On the other end, it has a square hole for your 1/2 drive torque wrench. Factor in the additional leverage.

3) I would just torque down the cylinder you loosened the nuts on. There is every little pressure of the fuel/air being pushed thru the transfer ports.

4) The stuff you see on the bolt would probably be Lock-tite. You should clean off the old and re-apply the blue version upon assembly.

G'luck...

 

[RMK900204]

use a razor blade or gasket scraper the blue goop is to jus make sure you are not leaking threw the head bolts the way I put them back togeather is put some hight temp rtv on the top of the shaink just below the bolt head . tork it to half of your tork speck in an x pattern let it set for a few hours this will set up like the blue goop did .go back and tork to speck .my first tork is about 11 ft lb my final is between 18 -22 ft lb on the head . on the wrong jug part I think you would be ok just to re tork it if you did not break the seal.they make a socket that looks like an open end wrench it looks like they cut the top of open wrench off and it has a spot for like 1/2 drive I use one of thees and an extenson and tork it with my tork wrench.

 

[RMK900204]

the blue goop is on the head bolts just below the bolt head ?
or is it on the threads ?

 

[sodfarmer]

The blue goop is just under the head of the bolt not on the threads. I use a teflon sealant on the bolts and torque them right away.

Find someone with a 9/16 distributor wrench. That's how I torque the base blots. Make sure to put the wrench 90 degrees to the torque wrench or you will overtorque.

When you reinstall the cyliner use the Polaris metal gasket. You don't have to ever worry about scraping off paper gaskets again. However it would probably be a good idea to put them on both cylinders if you used them. Plus I have reused the metal gaskets a few times with no problems.

Good luck.

 

[Joemt]

Thank you all for your help. Great info!

 

[TravRMK]

Yep, I hate paper base gaskets. Apparently someone has been in the engine before since polaris puts the ruber coated metal ones in them stock. These metal gaskets just pop off. I don't reuse them though. On the head bolts use Three Bond 1104 or a similar non hardening gasket maker, and put a little bit under the head on the shank. If you don't or didn't get it good enough you will get coolant seeping from the headbolts, not much, but some.