I did track swaps on a couple of 2023s this fall, I pulled 3 of the 4 of the quick drive bolts out by hand. Neither sled had been touched from the factory. 100 miles and 300 miles. Might be worth checking, especially on 2023s.
Check your quick drive bolts
- Thread starter goridedoo
- Start date
My 24 Boost's lower was loose too.
D
I will check ours, would you know the torque or is it just G-N-T!
Do they come with thread locker from the factory? I'd definitely add some, if so. I also swapped to ARP hardware for the drive sprockets on my old sled, and I remember some guys doing that on the Pro. Couldn't hurt here...
They do. They’ve also resolved broken bolt issues. I used to use loctite when reinstalling… quit doing it a few years ago, haven’t had any issues. I just torque from 45-50. I’m thinking they didn’t get torqued at the factory.
Like you say, loctite can’t hurt.
Yeah, I do wonder if the thread locker (which Polaris uses on a lot of bolts you wouldn't think need it) is to compensate for the all-too-strong possibility that some bolts don't get torqued correctly. It's probably not necessary on something like a driveshaft that doesn't see as much vibration as engine fasteners, but nothing wrong with it. I do remember there being some changes on the QD bolts not long after it came out, so probably not a big priority to replace those; maybe another "couldn't hurt." You could probably put more torque on the ARP bolt, although I'm not sure if the washer Polaris uses is rigid or a spring washer; if it's the latter, cranking it down would defeat the purpose.
I’m no expert… but…
When using a lubricant or thread locker (acts as lube when wet) when one is not called for in the instructions then you need to use a wet torque which is typically 20% (some say as high as 40%) less than dry.
Essentially, the lubrication allows the hardware to apply the desired clamping force at a lower torque value. Using a dry torque number in a wet application will overstretch and possibly compromise the hardware.
If you “retorque” after thread-locker has cured and the hardware moves then you just broke the bond and you’ll have to start over if you need or desire the thread-locker.
one can use a visual aid such as tamper paint to see if the hardware has loosened.
When using a lubricant or thread locker (acts as lube when wet) when one is not called for in the instructions then you need to use a wet torque which is typically 20% (some say as high as 40%) less than dry.
Essentially, the lubrication allows the hardware to apply the desired clamping force at a lower torque value. Using a dry torque number in a wet application will overstretch and possibly compromise the hardware.
If you “retorque” after thread-locker has cured and the hardware moves then you just broke the bond and you’ll have to start over if you need or desire the thread-locker.
one can use a visual aid such as tamper paint to see if the hardware has loosened.
J
decided to look my sled over now that it’s over 300km and I discovered the lower qd bolt was finger tight. Removed both qd bolts and retorqued with a small amount of loctite. Top qd bolt looks like it has something on the threads while the bottom bolt only has a little bit of oil. 
