I was told if the drive shaft is gonna break on these 13 pros, its going to go out in ten miles or less. Just a little FYI on what i was told..
another shaft failure
- Thread starter Flygti32
- Start date
really like these, great job!
PM me please about orderin
PM me please about orderin
Not true... there are guys with 170 and a little over 200 that have broken now also, it's a bad deal, I was feeling pretty confident this would not be too bad, you'd know fairly soon if it was good or not, till I heard about those. Hope poo gets her figured out, I am sure they will but at what cost of lost time on the snow??? Only time will tell.
F
they have had this problem since 09-a buddy had a shift 600 trail sled lost his drive shaft at 2300 miles-along with one other since,they need to get it right
T
Well you my friend were told absolutely wrong! There have been documented cases where a sled makes it 30, 40, 50 miles and then the shaft lets go. And like stated above, there have been some that have lasted ~200 miles.
R
The shafts do not always fail in the 1st 10 miles, some have done over 100 before failure..
It all boils down to at what point to you exceed the forces required to rupture the extrusions wall and/or glue failure.. Once the extrusion wall fractures/ruptures and you are done...
It all boils down to at what point to you exceed the forces required to rupture the extrusions wall and/or glue failure.. Once the extrusion wall fractures/ruptures and you are done...
X
ABSOLUTELY!
X
Where its placed on the shaft will also effect balance as well. You can factor in balance of the billet pieces but i guarantee both those bolts don't weight the exact same. Will it be off far enough to cause damage? Who knows.
Hmm
I hate shaft failure!!!!
So, I got some blue pills!!!
I hate shaft failure!!!!
So, I got some blue pills!!!
R
Not to mention the snow and ice build up throwing off the balance, I bet the drivers aren't balanced perfectly or weigh the same either... So I think a clamp around the driveshaft aint gonna matter much.
Yes, the snow, ice, dirt, etc. all affect the balance, but why would start out with a known imbalance? Personally I'll chance the raw glued shaft over any of these patches. If the glue is set up- you should be golden! If the glue is soft then no clamp is going to help. If you insist on a bandaid to give you a warm fuzzy feeling the best of the three I've seen is NM's- plastic collar with a steel clamp band machined from a stock plastic driver. But it is your sled, I see more cause for failure due to the additional imbalance than without it.
R
T
Have fun with a raw glue shaft when it breaks bud. All these fixes are addressing the problem and its not just a warm fuzzy felling. And the billet on is within a few g when cut in half and it spinning 1.8inch from centre so there is going to me no vibration. Maybe for you trail riders going mach 10 but for mountain riders puling 50mile track speeds at best it isn't a worry. And how do you say no clamp will help if the glue is soft explain logically dont just speak out your *** give me a reasonable explanation. I am tired of all the people that just say stuff with know knowledge its like you dont have a say in the real world so they cum on here and run there mouth about stuff they no nothing about.
X
Depends. Location matters more that weight. The shaft is so long. You have drivers in set locations already... The shaft is factory balanced... I would be curious as to how you guys are compensating for the new balance points by adding weight to this shaft in unspecified locations.
X
Because all those rotating parts are factory balanced right....................
You really dont think they factored balance into the design of a drive shaft?
They hardly balance the clutches that spin 8400 rpm, they damn sure don't balance a drive shaft.
T
the shaft is not factory balanced it is assembled with round parts and hope there close but no blanching done on the driveshaft and with everything being cast and extruded no way it is naturally balanced and they don't balance because its not a big deal and the shaft is only getting to maybe 3000 rpm at the most and the unbalanced weight is only a few inches off centre.
X
No offense but your fixing symptoms of the problem, that's a band-aid fix. You took the time to design and machine those billet pieces, for the time you have in those you could have machined an entire billet shaft from scratch and solved the entire problem once and for all. Glued together shafts are not the right answer regardless of what any engineer says.
