Alternative Impact A Arm close up pics & installation thoughts.

[CO Powder]

So there is no need to remove ball joints etc from the stock arms to make the kit work? I can sell my stock arms complete and buy the kit and it will have everything I need?


People seem to be asking stupid money for stock take offs, as much as this kit! I will GLADLY make the switch for the cost of a little time and labor.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

So there is no need to remove ball joints etc from the stock arms to make the kit work? I can sell my stock arms complete and buy the kit and it will have everything I need?


People seem to be asking stupid money for stock take offs, as much as this kit! I will GLADLY make the switch for the cost of a little time and labor.

Yep


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[kmo]

That is by far the best option. The instructions are a pretty good baseline but the rod is again the optimal way. Just not everyone has the proper part to make it happen. The one end need to be a fairly good tolerance fit. I like that you brought that up!
Dan

I went by the instructions and the spindles lean in at the top just a bit looking at the sled from the front, which is how my buddy's is with the stock arms. I neglected to take a photo or measurements prior to pulling the A-Arms of both sleds......

I took advantage of Dan's great tip and with a cutting wheel I ground a groove on the back sides of the ball joint studs for easier removal with a flat blade screwdriver in the event of a shear off due to an impact.

 

[shortstuff]

That is by far the best option. The instructions are a pretty good baseline but the rod is again the optimal way. Just not everyone has the proper part to make it happen. The one end need to be a fairly good tolerance fit. I like that you brought that up!
Dan

So do you want neutral camber with the sled in the air, or sitting on the ground?

 

[alt]

This will clear things up I hope. Clear as mud

 

[Falcon1772]

Any idea on the torques of all these?

Found this on another post. Figured it might help someone else doing the install

30 ft/lbs for the nuts at the bulkhead
18 ft/lbs for the sway bar
40 ft/lbs for the ball joint

 

[alt]

Found this on another post. Figured it might help someone else doing the install

30 ft/lbs for the nuts at the bulkhead
18 ft/lbs for the sway bar
40 ft/lbs for the ball joint

Thanks for that! Had a guy today email me about torques. Unless I'm in the engine I just don't normally get the torque wrench out. Maybe that's bad but I have to be honest, I just go by feel...

Dan

 

[Falcon1772]

That guy was most likely me. Flynn. I like torquing so I don't over German torque it. Haha

 

[kmo]

So I decided to get a bar and properly check the camber after I installed my 39" Alt Impact arms. I ended up adjusting both sides of both sleds. My wife's ended up 3 threads on the right, 5 on the left. My sled was 1 thread right, 2 threads left. This was with all uppers in all the way. My measurement was 2" from top of alignment bar to top of hole, inside side of spindle per the local dealer. They both look better than they did. Dealer said it was common to see differences due to casting tolerances, etc on different sleds.

 

[alt]

So I decided to get a bar and properly check the camber after I installed my 39" Alt Impact arms. I ended up adjusting both sides of both sleds. My wife's ended up 3 threads on the right, 5 on the left. My sled was 1 thread right, 2 threads left. This was with all uppers in all the way. My measurement was 2" from top of alignment bar to top of hole, inside side of spindle per the local dealer. They both look better than they did. Dealer said it was common to see differences due to casting tolerances, etc on different sleds.

casting tolerance is without a doubt real world. I've seen more of that with ski doo than any other sled. Instructions only go so far but we try to hit the happy medium. Again the bar through the spindles is the proper way.
Dan

 

[Proride_58640]

Super easy install. Awesome kit hands best on the market in my opinion.

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[Falcon1772]

So I have a hard time putting into text how I feel but to sum it up quickly. The 36" kit is probably the best mod I have done on my sled. I went from rather disliking how the AXYS handled to downright LOVING it! I cannot recommend this kit highly enough. IT made riding my sled an absolute blast! So easy to turn. I'd do it again in a heartbeat

 

[sledheader]

So I have a hard time putting into text how I feel but to sum it up quickly. The 36" kit is probably the best mod I have done on my sled. I went from rather disliking how the AXYS handled to downright LOVING it! I cannot recommend this kit highly enough. IT made riding my sled an absolute blast! So easy to turn. I'd do it again in a heartbeat

What did you dislike about the axys in stock form? What sled were you coming off of? I'm on the fence about this and just looking for more input

 

[kmo]

casting tolerance is without a doubt real world. I've seen more of that with ski doo than any other sled. Instructions only go so far but we try to hit the happy medium. Again the bar through the spindles is the proper way.
Dan

Dan, can you supply longer studs for the top of the spindle? Mine aren't long enough to go through the spindle and the bottom nut far enough to go through the nylock part of the nut. They stayed on OK for the first ride but I would feel better if a thread or two at least protruded past the end of the nut.

 

[alt]

Dan, can you supply longer studs for the top of the spindle? Mine aren't long enough to go through the spindle and the bottom nut far enough to go through the nylock part of the nut. They stayed on OK for the first ride but I would feel better if a thread or two at least protruded past the end of the nut.

Havent seen this at least to the point of things coming apart, but I would throw some Loctite on them. You should always use it on all titanium threads anyway even with a nylon nut. I really like those nuts for the fact they have deeper nylon than most. we preassemble everything before it goes out and ive noticed the end of the stud hits the nylon fairly deep. If the end of the stud is at the end of the outside of the nut you should have 2 threads minimum locking things together, its all you can get. Anyone else seeing the stud on the short side? Thanks for bringing this up, if it needs addressed I sure will
Dan

 

[Falcon1772]

What did you dislike about the axys in stock form? What sled were you coming off of? I'm on the fence about this and just looking for more input

Had a really hard time initiating a carve in stock form. Seemed like it took way too much effort. I came off a 2014 Skidoo Summit SP. I love my AXYS now tho!

 

[alt]

Dan, can you supply longer studs for the top of the spindle? Mine aren't long enough to go through the spindle and the bottom nut far enough to go through the nylock part of the nut. They stayed on OK for the first ride but I would feel better if a thread or two at least protruded past the end of the nut.

as near as I can tell there is 100% contact with the nylon when these are bolted up and properly tightened, meaning the nylon is entirely used up with the stud thread. For all who have this kit that haven't used loctite on that Ti stud for piece of mind it's worth going back and doing so.
Dan

 

[Devilmanak]

The OP's stud is NOT long enough, no nyloc penetration, he didn't catch it and the stud came out of spindle when riding two days ago, the ski flipped upside down, took out steering arm and bent shock. We rigged it on the trail to get him home. I am sure he will post, he had a long drive home last night.
Look at his very first picture, the stud is too short or the nut is too thick.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I'm seeing threads above the nyloc?

I used a lock washer and stainless acorn nut on my upper ball joints.
I couldn't leave the fugly threads and such in ankle bash zone.
Halfway through the first ride I checked and one was loose.
Tightened them german tight and no issues since.

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[Sheetmetalfab]

Heres some pics of my install. I got the 36" kit. Not super impressed with the tie rods as they're pretty hard to tighten down with no where for a wrench to go. Ended up using channel locks and a rag but it still tore them up a bit. also kind of a pain changing them out. Other than that so far I like them. Its definitely easier to tip over in the garage. havent gotten a chance to ride it yet.

Tighten both jam nuts at the same time and you don't need to ruin your tie rods.
Its pretty easy to cut the zip tie holding the plastic ring in the rubber boot, slide it out and the jam nut is accessible.