Alternative Furnace Option - Diesel Parking Heater

05rmksteve

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How well does the furnace push heat through all the ducting? Would it be worth it to install an inline fan?
How well does the furnace push heat through all the ducting? Would it be worth it to install an inline fan?
I was thinking I would need 1 but there seems to be enough air movement to dry out the gear and heat the trailer. If I need more air going through the lower run I can cap off the boot dryer's and glove dryer's. There are holes in the pipe for the glove dryer's that will stay open to let heat out of the pipes so they don't get to hot.
 
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moab11

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I've got the same heater and am still looking for a good solution to vent through the floor. What did you use to vent through the wall? It doesn't look like anything I have seen before.
 

05rmksteve

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I've got the same heater and am still looking for a good solution to vent through the floor. What did you use to vent through the wall? It doesn't look like anything I have seen before.
It's a part for venting an RV style heater. Its just a metal sleeve with a flange. I cut the sleeve to length. 20200327_151952.jpg
 
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Snowman.PRO.

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How big of a trailer are you guys heating with one 5kw heater? I'm looking at using one in a 7.5x18x5ft V.
In those videos there was a comparison of the 5Kw heater and the 8 Kw, in those tests they tested out to be the same heaters. So it is most likely marketing to scam people into buying the 8Kw heater for more money when its actually just a 5Kw.
 
Sep 10, 2013
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Hey guys, so sorry to have been MIA on this thread. Somehow, I didn't get notifications on updates and I've missed out on an amazing discussion and am so sorry I wasn't there to share my experiences. So fun for me to see an idea develop into something that seems to have worked so well for many of you.

Just to chime in on a few topics asked and answered.

1) I also did side venting. My installation was high because I wanted to get my handlebars clear of the unit when loading side by side. I wished I had done a lower installation. There is no benefit to the venting high that I can see and it would have maybe been better heat distribution and accessibility for my daughters and wife to warm their hands while we are all getting ready on the arrival and departure. Lower installation would have accommodated that inside and outside the trailer. I will say that one of the benefits of this unit is that you can heat and drive at the same time. If one were to install in the nose, you would need to direct the exhaust to the side wall to accomplish this otherwise the air on the nose would put out the burn chamber.

2) I also used a suburban RV vent sleeve and cover. Worried about temps, I actually pushed the exhaust tubing to the end of the sleeve to exit directly out the side of the trailer, but not until I wrapped the exhaust tube that was supplied with the heater with some ceramic blanket. I can touch the sleeve when the heater is in full operation. No concerns about the trailer wall getting hot. It just doesn't.

3) I did not do anything special for air intake. The already installed side vents on the trailer seem to allow plenty of air needed for intake and since the application is to help dry out the trailer, I've found it helps to open the top vent for moisture exhaust which also meets the intake requirements. The exhaust obviously exits the trailer, so no concerns there.

4) My trailer is large and it does a great job. On the coldest winter mornings I need to let it run for a couple hours before leaving. But that met my expectations. As good a job as one heater does, At this price point I am considering installing a second heater with some PVC duct work for heating gloves and helmets. So thrilled to see another contributor doing something similar in their rig.

5) Having used this for a winter and a half, I have found that the diesel definitely needs winterizer treatment and on really cold days, the pump itself needs a little coaxing to get moving. I use a DeWalt battery powered heat gun to get the pump warm enough to get the pump moving and then it operates just fine. I may look into a stronger pump should one exist?

Overall, my experience has been amazing. I love that little heater. Since putting it in, I installed one in a utility trailer, my brother installed one in his toy hauler garage, and another one in his shop. I haven't had any problems with the Chinese ebay heaters and if anyone feels it would meet their needs, would highly recommend doing a similar installation as shown in this thread.
 
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Oh, and I forgot to mention that the 3" bilge fan was a waste of time. Not near enough air movement. Since I installed a shore power plug on the side of the trailer to redneck install a AGM battery and battery tender, I put in a regular outlet so I could plug in a carpet fan for high flow air movement. Now I just plug in my trailer to an extension cord when I get home and that fan will blow while charging the battery. It does a great job!
 

FatDogX

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Any more updates on this type of heating system?

Any more pictures?
Battery setup or cabinet for the battery?

I have a 7x29 and have been tossing around heating for a while or........just sell it and buy one with heat, LOL
 

moab11

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this is (still) on my project list to get mine mounted and set up. I bought the all-in-one style from amazon last winter and didn't get around to putting it in the trailer.
Test firing it in the garage with the exhaust out the door proved that they are quite amazing though.

My plan was to mount the heater where my spare tire is normally and use some sort of stainless grommet through the floor for the exhaust. I already have a large deep cycle battery and associated chargers in the trailer to power it.
I am kind of tossing around the idea now of building a new cabinet in the front to house the heater (either this one permanently set up, or take apart and mounted normally). This option would be the nicer approach, but also more work and gives less room in the trailer when not needing the heater.
 

DUKHTR3

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Oh, and I forgot to mention that the 3" bilge fan was a waste of time. Not near enough air movement. Since I installed a shore power plug on the side of the trailer to redneck install a AGM battery and battery tender, I put in a regular outlet so I could plug in a carpet fan for high flow air movement. Now I just plug in my trailer to an extension cord when I get home and that fan will blow while charging the battery. It does a great job!
I have a 3" bilge fan attached to only my boot dryer and it works amazing but it is a little load. So I only use it when needed. I also run a small fan on the floor to help with air movement.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 

Timbre

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this is (still) on my project list to get mine mounted and set up. I bought the all-in-one style from amazon last winter and didn't get around to putting it in the trailer.
Test firing it in the garage with the exhaust out the door proved that they are quite amazing though.

My plan was to mount the heater where my spare tire is normally and use some sort of stainless grommet through the floor for the exhaust. I already have a large deep cycle battery and associated chargers in the trailer to power it.
I am kind of tossing around the idea now of building a new cabinet in the front to house the heater (either this one permanently set up, or take apart and mounted normally). This option would be the nicer approach, but also more work and gives less room in the trailer when not needing the heater.
They work VERY well!! I did have a glow plug fail (Error message E-03) but it was very easy to replace.

One thing to consider when going through the floor, is the road chemicals during the winter. This will corrode and ruin whatever sticks outside the trailer. You might think about putting the exhaust through the wall, and keep the inlet (to the combustion chamber) inside the trailer. I am sure if you are driving with the heater running, and there is a mist of road chemicals around the trailer, that the inlet will be pulling in that mist, and will ruin the combustion chamber fairly quickly. If you do this, make SURE you have an inlet for air to feed the inlet of the heater. It does not take much, but will definitely need to have air to properly burn. Most trailers have those vents in the upper left and lower right areas that work perfectly.
 

moab11

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Thanks Timbre. The plan is to keep the combustion air intake inside the trailer, since I do have the vents you mentioned. The just have the exhaust run through the floor and out the side. Even if I need to replace the exhaust pipe and muffler every few years, they are extremely cheap to buy and should be easy to replace.
 

05rmksteve

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Some of the heaters come with a muffler others have it as an option. I did not install a muffler on my heater a friend of mine installed 1 in his trailer with a muffler but I have not heard his run yet to see if the muffler makes much of a difference.
 

05rmksteve

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Really?

OK ....

So - are these things just [modern type] salamander heaters (not traditional type) with a heat exchanger then?
No they're vented to the outside so there's no fumes inside the trailer and they can be ducted. The burner and fan can also be set to modulate so when it gets close to the set temp it will modulate down to low fan low fire.
 

Ox

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You missed the "with a heat exchanger" part I think.

That's what it is sounding like you are describing.
I just figgered this was like a traditional fuel oil furnace, but apparently not.
 
Dec 12, 2018
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I am going to install one of these units I think I'm in love with them lol! I just don't know how to set up the battery and shore power stuff? Does anyone have any useful sites to explain it to me?
 
Sep 10, 2013
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I just installed one of these on the exterior of the trailer and had it run to the cabinet where I store my battery. I bought a bettery tender which is also in the cabinet and then wired a receptacle on the side wall of the cabinet for plugging in a fan or extra spare heater etc. When I return home from riding, I simply plug an extension cord into this adapter and it powers everything I have connected internally.
 
Sep 10, 2013
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Pics for those still wanting them. I used a suburban rv exhaust and ran the exhaust tube from the heater through it and wrapped in ceramic blanket for heat control. I also taped the inside with heat resistant aluminum tape to ensure I didn't get any exhaust back draft. My battery and battery tender are stored in a nose bench. Someone commented wondering about wiring. I simply ran it from the nose to heater placement through the cove trim on the ceiling.
 

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