I had a 13 pro 800 and always ran polaris 10-60 weights in the bighorns. I now have a '15 pro 800 and it seems about 200 - 300 rpm short with the 10 - 60's in. So my question is should i try 58's or try something else? I'v always had good luck using stock clutching by the manual and not sure which way to go, just looking for opinions. forgot to mention i do have a ggb mountain can installed.
800 Pro Stock Clutching
- Thread starter FlatLander909
- Start date
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Are you sure its clutching? I was just down 2-300 rpm and my tps was out of whack. Mine had noticeable starting issues as well.
How do I go about checking the tps?
W
Flatlander- I'm having the same problem- following... Thanks!
My 15 didnt pull RPM all season long until I went with the MDS recommended clutching and it is much better. Very strange because my past pros all pulled the stock clutching fine. Curious if you find another issue. Definitely wouldn't mind having mine checked out.
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The sled is brand new, I would take it to a dealer.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361024&page=3
has a good explanation
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also, when i would just tape the throttle from a dead stop it will burble and act like it was getting too much fuel or something? OR if i was stuck and getting on the throttle good it would bog to the point that you could kill it. So sounds like take it to the dealer and have them check the tps? jusst not sure what to check, my 13 was problem free from day one and always ran like a raped ape.
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Definitely sounds like potential TPS issues, mine had very similar running problems. My problems were not pulling RPM, hard starting sometimes requiring throttle blip, bogging when stuck and trying to pop it out, certainly some excess fuel burning, making your eyes water when pulling a ski. It very minor, you could follow the instructions on the link above or just drop it off.
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Put the stock can back on and see if your R's return. We have seen a loss in R's with some aftermarket cans. Easy test.
Yes, deffinitely putting stock can back on but will only be going out west once more this year unless they get some good snow in late march so still going to have the dealer check the tps before we head. Had the same can on my 13 though and from stock to ggb no rpm loss. I have also noticed some hard starting issues too... hold the throttle
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I run around 10,000 feet and am having the same problem on my 15 pro. I am going to try 58's. I think that will be the way to go.
Lundracing,
do you ever ride the horns? If you do what weights do you run? I always ran 10-60's in my 11 and 13 pros and never had an issue. Not sure how close i am to 10,000 feet while riding but 10-60s are 8-10000 feet per manual.
I have not been to horns with my pro. Got about 800 miles on in cooke. I only get about 7800 rpm at 10000. Don't think 60's will be enough. Going to try 58's first instead of getting 60's and having to spend more on 58's later. A few poo guys I have talked to while out west said that was the way to go.
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Ride constantly 8,000-10,000 here in Wyoming and the 10/60"s runs 8300-8350 all day long in 3 of the pros we have in our fleet - 13-14-15 pro's 163's
Since I am a dealer for GGB we are running 2 pro's with the GGB Mountain can and mine with a GGB trail can-
No issue's getting to the recommended RPM's-yours could possibly be the TPS
Clutching is good as far as weights but dunno what you running for spring in the primary
Had a customer bring in his sled last week and could only get 7800 rpm at our altitude- ran fine the day before / We found a broken Team secondary spring-
New spring cured his problem on a 2013 with 1000 miles!
S/C
Since I am a dealer for GGB we are running 2 pro's with the GGB Mountain can and mine with a GGB trail can-
No issue's getting to the recommended RPM's-yours could possibly be the TPS
Clutching is good as far as weights but dunno what you running for spring in the primary
Had a customer bring in his sled last week and could only get 7800 rpm at our altitude- ran fine the day before / We found a broken Team secondary spring-
New spring cured his problem on a 2013 with 1000 miles!
S/C
Sage crusher,
I am bringing it to the dealer this weekend to have them look at it but i am leaning towards the tps. I had a thirteen with the ggb can on it and never had a problem but am going to put stock can on it on the next trip out. But hopefully the tps just needs adjusting because my 13 pulled the 10-60s just fine and could pull 8250 to 8350 in headlight deep snow like nothing.
Just is annoying when you spent that kinda coin on a sled, head out west, and she dont run right, ya know?
But i love my ggb mountain can, awesome quality product.
Sent you a PM
Couple other things i would check, along with the TPS. Not in any certain order, but possible problems.
1. Clutch alignment. I always check this, as well as set float on secondary.
2. Shift-out. Are your clutches fully shifting? Use a marker and draw a line from the center to the outside radius of clutches. The belt will rub away the marker, showing how far it is shifting. Primary rubs from center out, secondary from outside to center.
3. Belt to sheath clearance! Notoriously out of spec from factory, often requiring machining to get correct, even to get close really. Loose will result in lower belt pressures, and less shift.
4. Spring problems. Check them and condition of both clutches. Some primary springs bind up on the clutch spider or jam nut. Look for rub marks on outside edge of spring.
5. Do clutches both function/move smoothly with springs removed? Primary especially. Some clutches are really tight in the bushings. They may "break in" and loosen up, or keep sticking.
6. Belt deflection set right?
7. Belt itself. See any problems with it?
8. Drive train. Everything spin smooth/freely?
Looks like alot, and does require some tools for checking all that, but all very possible RPM robbing issues. Some of them common.
Couple other things i would check, along with the TPS. Not in any certain order, but possible problems.
1. Clutch alignment. I always check this, as well as set float on secondary.
2. Shift-out. Are your clutches fully shifting? Use a marker and draw a line from the center to the outside radius of clutches. The belt will rub away the marker, showing how far it is shifting. Primary rubs from center out, secondary from outside to center.
3. Belt to sheath clearance! Notoriously out of spec from factory, often requiring machining to get correct, even to get close really. Loose will result in lower belt pressures, and less shift.
4. Spring problems. Check them and condition of both clutches. Some primary springs bind up on the clutch spider or jam nut. Look for rub marks on outside edge of spring.
5. Do clutches both function/move smoothly with springs removed? Primary especially. Some clutches are really tight in the bushings. They may "break in" and loosen up, or keep sticking.
6. Belt deflection set right?
7. Belt itself. See any problems with it?
8. Drive train. Everything spin smooth/freely?
Looks like alot, and does require some tools for checking all that, but all very possible RPM robbing issues. Some of them common.
