2019+ Center Shock Lower Mount Idlers

[hoov165x]

These don't seem to be on all sleds. The only purpose I can see, besides making it a pain in the butt to service your center shock, would be to support the shaft and keep it from bending under a real hard hit to the front arm.

Any thoughts on these idler wheels? Necessary?

 

[sledhead_24_7]

Help with hyfax wear.
Older sleds has larger wheels mounted in that area. Only with more parts. That way they are now accomplished the same thing with less weight I’m sure.

 

[hoov165x]

The wheels are inboard right close to the shock. If BRP was wanting to eliminate excessive hyfax wear they would mount adjacent to the rail- and on some of the Summits they still do. Interesting that my dealer looked at his stock of Summits and some had the wheels and some didn't. They do not show on the parts fiche.

 

[jcjc1]

My 2020 Freeride had those wheels on either side of the shock until I installed the adjustable limiter strap. The axle that the shock's lower end is attached to gets removed and a wheel is pulled off to remove the shock. Wheel is reinstalled and the axle is placed back in the skid but in a new spot further to the rear. The limiter strap, spacers, and shock are installed on a new axle provided with the kit and installed in the original spot.
So on some models at least, those wheels are in a different area because of the limiter strap.
Pic shows new arrangement of axles.

 

[hoov165x]

Thank you! This gives me a good option.

 

[jcjc1]

No problem and the holes for the axle’s new location are predrilled in the rail so that part of the install is easy to do.

 

[ThePennySaved]

My 2020 Freeride had those wheels on either side of the shock until I installed the adjustable limiter strap. The axle that the shock's lower end is attached to gets removed and a wheel is pulled off to remove the shock. Wheel is reinstalled and the axle is placed back in the skid but in a new spot further to the rear. The limiter strap, spacers, and shock are installed on a new axle provided with the kit and installed in the original spot.
So on some models at least, those wheels are in a different area because of the limiter strap.
Pic shows new arrangement of axles.

@jcjc1 Do you need a press to remove the axle? Or does it come out easily after you remove the circlip on one of the idler wheels? @Norona had an Instagram video recently where he upgrades to Fox shocks and mentions needing a press for the center shock axle.

I discovered this issue a few weeks ago when I removed the KYB’s on my 19 Summit X to get them serviced. Luckily my shock guy could do his thing with out removing the axle.

 

[hoov165x]

@jcjc1 Do you need a press to remove the axle? Or does it come out easily after you remove the circlip on one of the idler wheels? @Norona had an Instagram video recently where he upgrades to Fox shocks and mentions needing a press for the center shock axle.

I discovered this issue a few weeks ago when I removed the KYB’s on my 19 Summit X to get them serviced. Luckily my shock guy could do his thing with out removing the axle.

You do need a press. Dumb design. The one bitch I have about my G4 vs. my Pro- These things suck to work on. If my Pro is like a '70's pickup truck (you know, the ones you can crawl inside the engine bay and actually work on), the G4 is like a modern truck.......

 

[jcjc1]

I'm assuming a press is mentioned to reinstall the bearing ? Removing the axle is easy-it's just the bolt and the nut once you remove the bolt holding the top of the shock to it's mount, then remove entire assembly from the skid. The wheel is just press fit over the bearing and retained by a circlip. Once the circlip is removed I just tapped around the rubber wheel and worked it down. You need a bearing puller to remove the bearing though and once removed, the axle slides right out of the shock. To put the bearing back in place, i used a section of pvc pipe and slid that over the bearing and easily tapped it down into it's spot. Then put the rubber wheel back on by tapping it with a rubber mallet. Prior to that I took some calipers to measure the distance from the end of the axle to the bearing face so I'd know how far to tap it down. To me the huge pain in the ass was putting the axle back in place. The original one went in the new spot easily but the new one (with shock) was a pain which was partly because I was sitting on the floor so not much leverage. Maybe the new axle was a few thou longer but it did not want to go into place but with some creative use of a tie down strap, I was able to line it up.

 

[hoov165x]

That's it in a nutshell. We shouldn't have to go to this length to get the damn shock off the shaft though.. Ridiculous. When time comes around to work on my Doo's every year, I procrastinate. It's almost like BRP wants to discourage owners from working on their sleds. Maybe more dollars for the dealership...

Not saying they're impossible to work on, but not as easy as it should be.