2017 Husky FC 450 electrical quesions.

[Rick E]

This FC 450 bike is set up with the Timbersled ARO 120.
The headlamp, tail light and brake light were added.
There is a handlebar mounted headlamp switch next to the throttle.
The headlamp is plugged into the OEM harnes.
The headlamp works, but it comes on randomly.

Yesterday, I fired the engine up and the lamp worked.
After I shut it down, I tried the lamp again, and it would not light up.

I went out there this mornning and tried it again (I did not start the engine) ...... and the light worked.

I am puzzled as to why this operates intermittently!

 

[Rick E]

Here is my other thread re; the FC 450 w/ ARO 120. It's unrelated to this issue.

2017 Husky FC 450 w/ 2018 ARO 120.... a few questions

Thanks to all of you who helped me with my questionis on my other thread! https://www.snowest.com/forum/threads/2017-husky-fc-450-w-2018-timbersled-aro-120-questions.465674/ This is a 2017 Husqvarna FC 450, so it was never equipped with Head or Tail lights. It has never seen the dirt...

www.snowest.com

 

[Rick E]

I'm giving this thread a bump.
Please read post # 1 again...... I'd like to know what is causing this.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

How can anyone diagnose an intermittent electrical issue through the internet?

Loose wire?
Internally corroded relay?

Get out your electrical tester and start back probing connectors to isolate the problem.

Or bring it to a shop you trust and they will do the same.

 

[Rick E]

How can anyone diagnose an intermittent electrical issue through the internet?

Loose wire?
Internally corroded relay?

Get out your electrical tester and start back probing connectors to isolate the problem.

Or bring it to a shop you trust and they will do the same.

People, not unlike myself, ask questions on a forum in hopes of receiving a polite and adult like response.

Of course it's not possible to diagnose an electrical issue via the Internet.
I was not asking for a diagnosis.
I was hoping that someone may have experienced this, or similar, before and could shed some light on it.

An intermittently conductive relay may explain it.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

People, not unlike myself, ask questions on a forum in hopes of receiving a polite and adult like response.

Of course it's not possible to diagnose an electrical issue via the Internet.
I was not asking for a diagnosis.
I was hoping that someone may have experienced this, or similar, before and could shed some light on it.

An intermittently conductive relay may explain it.

Oh believe me….

You got likely the closest thing to a polite and adult like answer you can expect on the internet right there.

Take that same question to Facebook and see what you receive…….

I'm giving this thread a bump.
Please read post # 1 again...... I'd like to know what is causing this.

This FC 450 bike is set up with the Timbersled ARO 120.
The headlamp, tail light and brake light were added.
There is a handlebar mounted headlamp switch next to the throttle.
The headlamp is plugged into the OEM harnes.
The headlamp works, but it comes on randomly.

Yesterday, I fired the engine up and the lamp worked.
After I shut it down, I tried the lamp again, and it would not light up.

I went out there this mornning and tried it again (I did not start the engine) ...... and the light worked.

I am puzzled as to why this operates intermittently!

Again, I’m not trying to give you a fish, just telling you where to go fish and what lure to use.

(Tester and back probes to isolate parts of the harness and components that are or are not energized)

I’ve had intermittent switches, flaky led lights, corroded connections, intermittent bad relays, wires broken inside the insulation.

All on different bikes, sleds, machines etc.

Most all of the electrical issues in lighting were not in the oem untouched parts of the machine. Can be as simple as a poorly routed wire rubbed through and intermittently grounding on the frame.

 

[TreewellDweller]

Oh believe me….

You got likely the closest thing to a polite and adult like answer you can expect on the internet right there.

Take that same question to Facebook and see what you receive…….





Again, I’m not trying to give you a fish, just telling you where to go fish and what lure to use.

(Tester and back probes to isolate parts of the harness and components that are or are not energized)

I’ve had intermittent switches, flaky led lights, corroded connections, intermittent bad relays, wires broken inside the insulation.

All on different bikes, sleds, machines etc.

Most all of the electrical issues in lighting were not in the oem untouched parts of the machine. Can be as simple as a poorly routed wire rubbed through and intermittently grounding on the frame.

Very valid points for trying to troubleshoot electrical problems. But, I might suggest to look very closely at the ground wire first. I have personally experienced more issues with the ground than I have with the hot wire when troubleshooting electrical issues. If, and when, the light does come on take time to move the handle bars and move the bike in any fashion that you can to verify if things change with motion. Just a few things to consider. Best of luck!

 

[AllHatNoCattle]

Electrical issues are one of those things where you just have to be patient and wrap your head around how the wiring works.

I once had a bike that would cut out at random times. Often at the worst possible times, like descending a bank into a creek or on a hillclimb. Sometimes it would just sputter and other times it would just die for a while. It was a 2 stroke so it was fairly simple wiring.

At home in the shop I tested every wire for continuity and everything checked out. I cleaned grounds and connections and even started replacing parts like the coil, spark plug wire/boot and stator. Nothing helped and it was always flaky.

I finally decided to unplug the kill switch and just kill the bike with the clutch on one ride and it didnt have any problems. I figured out that if I pressed the wire in a certain spot it would kill the bike. I guess the wires were crushed inside and I just couldn't see it. They metered ok when just sitting on the stand.

With intermittent problems you can either try to map it out and figure it out, or just start replacing parts... or both.

 

[Rick E]

Gentlemen, I am not at all inexperienced with 12 vdc current.
I posted my question in hopes that one of you may have knowledge as to something suspect (or routinely suspect) that may be causing this.

I did find and correct the problem.

By the way, there is NO ground in a 12 vdc system..... only Postive and Negative.
Ground refers to Earth Ground as in with residential or commercial AC current.

And yes, you could show us picture after pictures of advertised electrical components showing terminals that list "ground" or "grounding" points.
It is a misnomer, similar to calling an Engine a Motor!


Thanks to all of you who chimed in.



.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

So what was the problem?

 

[M5-]

Bad ground.

Sorry couldn't resist. LOL

M5

 

[Rick E]

Bad ground.

Sorry couldn't resist.

You got yourself an electrical terminology double wammy. "Ground" and "Resist"! Good one!

 

[Rick E]

Oh believe me….
You got likely the closest thing to a polite and adult like answer you can expect on the internet right there.

Well, we simply agree to disagree on that note.
I participate in a few other forums whereby I seldom see any rude attitudes.

So what was the problem?

First off, I'm a firm believer in using the tried and proven P of E.... (process of elimination).
Check one item only at a time and either find or elimintate that component as being the problem.
Move on the next suspect item only after the first item has been looked into.

I stripped the bike down and examined every aspect of this wiring circuit.
Both Pos and Neg battery connections are good.
Good Pos and Neg continuity at the head lamp and tail lamp themselves.

The Pos and Neg headlamp and tail lamp connections are good.

I checked the headlamp switch continuity..... all good.

I pulled connector fittings apart and examined the pins, etc. All looks good.

I even cut out what appeared to be a questionable butt connector, and re-did it.
(that butt connector was apparently installed by the shop who did the conversion)

I chased very inch of that circuit. No frayed wires....... no loose connections, no apparent connector issues.

Odd as it may seem, I found nothing that would have caused an intermittent head lamp/tail lamp operation.


All now works as it should.
However, it bugs me that I was not actually able to identify what and/or where the problem was.


I suppose that Ole Murphy will show up next winter while I'm out riding it.

 

[TreewellDweller]

Something else to consider. Wherever the wiring for the light, or anything else that is intermittent, fits under the gas tank, seat, or through the forks you should look at it closely for any flat spots. This is created by the wire being under strain while pressed tightly against the frame. The result is frayed and possibly severed strands of the wire but is not visible. A little wiggle will/could reconnect the circuit and everything seems good, temporarily. Just a thought!

 

[AllHatNoCattle]

Something else to consider. Wherever the wiring for the light, or anything else that is intermittent, fits under the gas tank, seat, or through the forks you should look at it closely for any flat spots. This is created by the wire being under strain while pressed tightly against the frame. The result is frayed and possibly severed strands of the wire but is not visible. A little wiggle will/could reconnect the circuit and everything seems good, temporarily. Just a thought!

Along the same lines - the same thing can happen if you overtighten a zip tie or put stress on the wire when running it by making it too tight between two points.

 

[Rick E]

Thank you for the comments.
Yes, I am very aware of those possibilities.

Believe me..... I left no stone unturned.... zip ties, sharp edges, pinched wire, strain on wires, over-tightened connections, and so on.
I'm surprised that I was not able to find the actual cause.
It's possible that one of the pin connectors wasn't making good continuity.


By the way, every time I walk by it, I turn the lights on and off a few times......... so far, so good.
We'll see what happens this coming season.