2010 M8: Helix and Shift Assist?

[backcountry1pr]

I have a '10 M8, and I'm looking to give it a little more on the low end. In talking to a friend, he suggested installing a shift assist bearing, and changing the stock helix out as a good method to accomplish this, rather than changing the gearing.

Has anyone done this? I found shift assist bearings on D&D's site, but I am lost when it comes to primary/secondary/helix springs. What color helix spring would I need to swap out my stock spring for to accomplish more low end snap?

Is this the preferred route? Or should I just change the gearing? Help!

 

[Bearcat]

Pal changed to AC green/yellow primary spring. Said it was better than stock (at 0-3000ft).

 

[backcountry1pr]

Thanks BC,

I guess to further my lack of understanding. Colors refer to specific weights which correlate to recommended altitudes? I do all my riding at 9k and up. What color/weight would I be looking for in that case?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

What kind of low end are we talking about, you can make it wind up like crazy to get to the top end or you can make it work at low speeds.

 

[backcountry1pr]

What kind of low end are we talking about, you can make it wind up like crazy to get to the top end or you can make it work at low speeds.

My understanding (which could be wayyyy of), is that by changing the Helix, I would likely loose a few MPH off my top and overall speed, but would gain more low end engagement and perceived "power"

I have the most fun boondocking around in trees, etc, rather than highmarking, so what Im looking to do is create more snap on the low end. That sort of snap your neck, feels like your sled is going to stand up on its track feeling. I would sacrifice some of the top end of my powerband to make that happen. (That being said I dont want it so far to the low end my top end would be useless either)

is what Im trying to do on the right track? Or should I just change my gearing? Im just trying to figure out the most effective way to get that feeling without putting a turbo in my sled.

 

[clarkwinsor]

iv heard of people using a larger secondary. like a 10.4" compared to a 10". that gives you more grunt at slower speeds, but doesnt sacrifice any top end.....could be wrong, still trying to figure these things out as well.....lots of peeps do it on m7s just because they were down on low end grunt.

 

[M7-Ballz 2 the Wall]

Questions

I have a '10 M8, and I'm looking to give it a little more on the low end. In talking to a friend, he suggested installing a shift assist bearing, and changing the stock helix out as a good method to accomplish this, rather than changing the gearing.

Has anyone done this? I found shift assist bearings on D&D's site, but I am lost when it comes to primary/secondary/helix springs. What color helix spring would I need to swap out my stock spring for to accomplish more low end snap?

Is this the preferred route? Or should I just change the gearing? Help!

What do you currently have in there right now?

Don't mess with the gearing its all in the secondary. IMO the shift assist is a waste of money. Try this adding one more Retainer, Torque Bracket part#0637-322 so there are two of them and then add one more Seat, Spring spacer part# 0648-713 so there are three of them.

So what this does is put a pre load on the compression spring, kinda like if you had a tensional spring kit ( like RK tek kit ). Tried this last year on my 2010 M8, inproved up shift and back shift as well.

As far as helix try a straight 36 and orange spring.

If you do this yourself make sure not to re-use the machine scwers in the sheave that hold the helix is place. Its balanced as well so make sure you put in back together correctly. Easy way to so that is to make two marks with a sharpie on both sheaves.

Good luck

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I don't know what those guys are talking about, the 10 m8 has a 10.4 sec and come stock with a 36* helix and orange spring, the Orange spring works but I sure wouldn't stiffen it any be cause you loose big on top, the shift assist has its gains but I think with the stiff orange spring it can be a downfall. To get more out of the whole snap you might be able to run a 40/36 radius cut helix, If you have the money I would get ahold of RKT and have him set you up with one of his clutch kits. On a friends 2010 m8 I loosened the bolt that holds the weights in the primary so the weight would swing back and forth easy. (they where somewhat stiff and had a harsh engagement) then I put another nut on it to lock them in place. It engaged much smoother and seemed to up and backshift better. I don't have much experience with the m8 so wait and see what others say as well.

 

[backcountry1pr]

What do you currently have in there right now?

Don't mess with the gearing its all in the secondary. IMO the shift assist is a waste of money. Try this adding one more Retainer, Torque Bracket part#0637-322 so there are two of them and then add one more Seat, Spring spacer part# 0648-713 so there are three of them.

So what this does is put a pre load on the compression spring, kinda like if you had a tensional spring kit ( like RK tek kit ). Tried this last year on my 2010 M8, inproved up shift and back shift as well.

As far as helix try a straight 36 and orange spring.

If you do this yourself make sure not to re-use the machine scwers in the sheave that hold the helix is place. Its balanced as well so make sure you put in back together correctly. Easy way to so that is to make two marks with a sharpie on both sheaves.

Good luck

Everything in that department is currently stock.

I was looking at that RK kit, which hadn't been on my radar. $300 was about what I was prepared to spend max, do you think that would be a better investment that the separate parts you mentioned? Aka would the results merit it? I have no experience with either obviously.

And thank you for the help, really appreciate it.

 

[AaronBND]

If you only have $300 to spend, does it have the stock can? If it was mine, and I only had $300 to spend on it, I would get a new lightweight can and just run it. The 10-M8's are strong. After the can save up and adjust clutching if needed. The can is going to take off major weight and is well worth the money. You have a great sled just have fun with it.........

Aaron

 

[backcountry1pr]

If you only have $300 to spend, does it have the stock can? If it was mine, and I only had $300 to spend on it, I would get a new lightweight can and just run it. The 10-M8's are strong. After the can save up and adjust clutching if needed. The can is going to take off major weight and is well worth the money. You have a great sled just have fun with it.........

Aaron

SLP Can in there already. Overall super happy with the sled. Just want to create the illusion of more low end power, and clutching seems to be the way to go, that way Im not tempted to spend more money.

 

[markoo]

You can spend hundreds of dollars on different clutch parts and try to figure out what works best or you can go with rktek and be done with it.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

You can spend hundreds of dollars on different clutch parts and try to figure out what works best or you can go with rktek and be done with it.

Thats probably what I would do, but have no experience with any rkt stuff. Just think he has the right idea.

 

[madmax]

I vote for RKT secondary.

 

[M7-Ballz 2 the Wall]

Yes, if you have the money go with RKT, Kelsey is awesome to deal with. Have his secondary kit on my 06 M7 and soon to be BB kit as well.

I was just playing around with other ways to get the same effect without spending $300.

I do ride at sea level to 3500 ft and it works great for me. And did put a little lights spring in primary.

 

[Monty]

Spent money on clutching on my 10, ended up going back to stock, just sayin!!

 

[backcountry1pr]

Spent money on clutching on my 10, ended up going back to stock, just sayin!!

monty, what did you do, and why didnt you like it?

 

[Icedog]

Bumping up your engagement RPM using a primary spring with a higher initial rate will give you the sharper take off you seem to be looking for. You might find that your sled will also want to trench more when you launch it in soft conditions though. Another option would be a progressive helix. Some thing like a Dalton 40/34 would likely work pretty good, and pull harder on the bottom end than the stock straight 36 for sure.