2005 m7 141

[mikew5945]

Ok, so I don't have the relocation brackets. Do they really make that big of a difference?

When your suspension collapses with out the bracket it makes the track tighter and robs speed and HP. The bracket raises the arm so the skid raises up and not back.
Here is another place.

http://stores.mountainfithoods.net/...th/106096433/start/17/total/24/Categories.bok

 

[Empire087]

Wheres the best place to get the relocation bracket?

 

[Brett Slagle]

Holtz stopped selling them when they stopped selling Cat parts. They were semi-fairly priced. The only shop I know beyond Holtz is AMP. Look at part number: AMP-3136

http://www.aftermarketproducts.com/catalog.php?mach_type=S

I've run a 2005 M7 since 2005, so I'm familiar with them. Other suggestions:

Motor Mounts: They have likely already gone out and been replaced and perhaps a couple times. Keep an eye on these throughout the season. When cracking, replace with 2006 mounts - they are harder durometer rubber.

Look at the exhaust side motor mount and insure that it has the 2006 heat shield over it. The exhaust heat on the M7 will damage the mount without that shield on it.

A-Arms: Keep an eye on the front end bushings. Again, with that many miles they have probably been replaced already. If you want good ones, PM bparks on here - the best ones made.

Steering post: Probably one of the most important mods is to replace the stock post. I've broken and watched others break this post a number of times. Scary stuff when smashing down the road. M7's are the worst. PM Wildchild on here for a bad to the bone post that won't break or bend. He can make it whatever height you want, so you can avoid a riser if you want the cheap route. Look at backcountryislife posts on his set-up... best to do it that way if you can afford a new post and pivot risers. Whatever you do, replace the post though.

When replacing the post, its a good idea to drop in a BDX support bearing. I also run the ratsled steering hoop support. Ratsled support, BDX bearing and wildchild post are the ticket to zero steering problems on your sled.

GeoMod: check this out - free mod for rear skid. Makes a difference too!

Revalve shocks - they are weak in the back, revalve now or deal with cracked skid rails.

You are due for new pistons, as others have said. Clean your injectors and powervalves this summer too.

Add extra hood straps! If you wreck and blow your hood off the M7 you will be in trouble (sled won't start). Strap that thing on and avoid that.

Keep your Diamond Drive healthy. One of the seals is installed the wrong direction from the factory. Yours may be fixed. I replaced seals annually on mine to avoid problems. DD service should be the first thing you do after your season is over. Don't wait until fall, water will rust things. I did bearings every 1000 miles. $60 was cheap insurance in my opinion. I put 8-9,000 miles on one of my DD doing bearings every 1000 miles and seals every season.

Vents are important, as others have said. I recommend Mountain Fit, but lots of great options.

That's all I can remember right now. Feel free to PM me if you have questions. You got a great deal, but drop another $400-$500 and make it reliable. I have some M7 parts for sale that could help keep you on the cheaper side, see below. Enjoy, they're great rigs!

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314653
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314654
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314171

Brett

 

[snowmobiler]

yowzer.with that list he might quit sledding before he even starts

 

[Brett Slagle]

yowzer.with that list he might quit sledding before he even starts

I wish someone gave me a starter list like that. In reality, that list will make his trips more fun and less frustrating... which is the way snowmobiling should be!

 

[Empire087]

Well, looks Like I got a list of things to go over. However, dd has been serviced every 3-500 miles, all the front end bushings where replaced, I think it's got the updated motor mounts, I'm pretty sure it got new pistons within the last 1500 miles. I'll check compression to give me an idea.

I will get on the steering support, vents, straps and I'll see if i can find a local shock person once I get to Denver.

Also once I get settled I'll message you about the vents, and straps you have for sale.

 

[ND]

I wish someone gave me a starter list like that. In reality, that list will make his trips more fun and less frustrating... which is the way snowmobiling should be!

That list nails everything, wish I had been given that list too. Only thing I would add is to tear the clutches down and clean them thoroughly.
Sno pro springs for the skis help cut out darting on the trail

 

[Mjunkie]

yowzer.with that list he might quit sledding before he even starts

Yeah, I never did half of that and never needed to. I've had my '05 M7 since I bought it new and it hasn't had many "trail baby" miles. My motor mounts never have given out, the steering post finally broke 2 years ago after landing a particularly hard jump, I never revalved the shocks, but quit using them altogether only a couple years ago to go to an EZ-Ryde, and yes I did replace a-arm bushings once ) and need to again. My point is that I don't think most of those things are a "must do" right away. A new top end is a good idea with those miles, and yes watch the dd. That is one I have had problems with but not until I got the big bore.

 

[snowmobiler]

ya.i rode mine about 3500 miles just like it came out of the crate.a belt or 2,gas and oil.

 

[snowmobiler]

it was fun drifting on the corners with that attack 20 track

 

[firecat99]

I have 20,000 miles on two different F7/M7 motors and only idiot failures from bad info from ppl we thought we can trust putting pipes and what not on them. Still the same bottom ends only one of the motors needed an mag side bearing. These sleds are awesome as suggested above get some vents for the clutch she gets toasty when doing long pulls and will eat up some belts happens to my F7s also when were riding them in the mountains. Other then that I would ride it first before modifying anything or changing anything up, do a weekend if you do like it make small changes. Most damaged parts i had ever was lots of steering posts lol I really have to watch more what Iam doing, my fix was stock bars and they fold over better and don't kill the post as its much more pricy.

 

[mikew5945]

I have 20,000 miles on two different F7/M7 motors and only idiot failures from bad info from ppl we thought we can trust putting pipes and what not on them. Still the same bottom ends only one of the motors needed an mag side bearing. These sleds are awesome as suggested above get some vents for the clutch she gets toasty when doing long pulls and will eat up some belts happens to my F7s also when were riding them in the mountains. Other then that I would ride it first before modifying anything or changing anything up, do a weekend if you do like it make small changes. Most damaged parts i had ever was lots of steering posts lol I really have to watch more what Iam doing, my fix was stock bars and they fold over better and don't kill the post as its much more pricy.

Best advice above.
Cool it down first then research each part before you buy. If you can buy good used parts. You can get them at half price.
Here is a bracket web page;
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/ItemDesc.asp?IC=060m7torquekit
An ABC kit helps clutch engagement;
http://www.thunderproducts.com/abc clutch kit.htm

 

[Empire087]

Right on, I'll look probably buy a set of vents in the next couple of weeks(or before I starting riding anyways). At the same time I'll keep looking for good deals on the other used parts.

 

[Empire087]

Well upon further inspection( I hate when I don't see stuff right away), i noticed right behind the factory inner idlers in the middle of the skid, a crack on both left and right rail. I should be able to tig weld them soon, but none the less I was hoping to change dd fluid grease the suspension and get on her and ride. I also noticed on the center shock at the lower mounting pint there's a ton if play. Can a dealer get a replacement one? I could just replace the bushing(which appears to be gone?), but I'd like to be able to replace everything as need be. Looking good otherwise, besides missing two lugs.

 

[Brett Slagle]

That's the spot on the rails they typically go first. After you weld them, I'd be looking at sending the rear shocks out to be rebuilt/revalved. Cracked rails almost certainly means the shocks have been bottoming out, so they're likely not functioning correctly at this point. There are a bunch of websites that have parts finders and diagrams on them. If you see the part there, a dealer can get it. I use www.babbitsonline.com, but any will work.

Brett

 

[Empire087]

I did find the bar under idler wheels, thanks for the help.

 

[snowmobiler]

my cheapo tip is carefully unload the spring pressure and step on the shock to check it.

 

[Empire087]

Ill try and check them out when i get to denver, all my stuff is about to be packed up for my move. My big concern is the lower shock mount of the center shock and the rails, hopefully i can tig them up within a week. Id really hate to have to try and fix this stuff during the season.

 

[Empire087]

Curse micro fiche's and them hiding stuff in a different section of the same picture. I had my dad pick up some parts from a cat dealer down state and i missed the metal bushing for the lower eye on the center shock.

 

[Mx21]

Ill try and check them out when i get to denver, all my stuff is about to be packed up for my move. My big concern is the lower shock mount of the center shock and the rails, hopefully i can tig them up within a week. Id really hate to have to try and fix this stuff during the season.

I had the same problem on my m7 with the same amount of miles, i welded them and it turned out great. I know how you feel about putting money into it as i am going to college tomorrow and things add up.