04 Summit Rebuild w/ T Motion install

[Vailguy]

x2 on the hi flow vent. its key when your nose goes under 2.5-3' of fresh. Rode with and without, can definitely tell the difference on the powder days. My only gripe is the internal guide to the airbox is abs and will crack over time, my first one I had wrapped up with foil tape to retain its integrity. SLP sent me a new one for free and it is already starting to go, This would make a great carbon fiber part. FYI... Good idea to ditch the pods and get a 07 airbox.

I just picked up a 13 skid today. YES! the whole skid without shocks, I have read where you used the same center shock on the T-mo upgrade. How does that work? Is the T-mo kit different then the 13? I would suspect not since you can use them on 08-12, however, 10+ had a 14.3" center shock. Can the upgrade be used for both shock lengths and you just get better approach angle with the longer shock?

 

[wildcard28]

Thanks for the reply and info on the intake. Ill feel more confindent goin back to the 07 airbox with the slp kit should make a good difference.

You can use the rev front and rear shocks on your tmo skid the I beleive they went to the longer front skid shock cause of the S36 front end which raised the front of the sled so the longer shock corrected the ski pressure but you can compensate for that when you mount the tmo skid in your sled

Wildcars

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[wildcard28]

Started the Engine assembly today and after a few hours I finaly got the whole engine put together, Yhae

04` 800ho
rebuild crankshaft from doctorcrankshaft off ebay came with all bearing packed with Isoflex grease didn`t expect that, thankyou
SHR 150hp+ Ported Trail Torqer kit
Ported cylinders
set my ringend gap
46 thousands base gaseket
head shaved 20 thousands
13.5 compression, 90/91 octane
will run stock jetting unless rich drop one jet size to 390 (John`s instructions)
20 thousands needle shim added
mod rave springs
thinner reed spacers
John`s MCB coated pistons and topend gasket set

Also purchased of ebay MCB Kluber 50ml Isoflex grease w/ crankseal kit great deal
Cases sealed with permatex anearobics surface prep and permatex anaerobic gasket maker
went to drug store and pharmasist gave me a 19ml non needle syring or injector to us to inject 10ml Isofles between the outer PTO bearings and fill the back side of crankseal 16ml of Iso

Bottom End:

Top end gasket kit from John

Here some pics, just finished cleaning the cases, spraying on prep surface I also put a touch of sleeve type loctite since the outer pto bearing didn`t have a antirotating pin in it but I`m sure the snapring around the bearing holds it tight in the cases just did it for just in case. and dropped crank in case.

Isoflex packed in bearings

Here is the Isoflex and crank seal kit I got off ebay

2 pics. 1)10ml Iso pacted between crankbearings Crank in case, 16ml packed in outer crankseal, 2oz of 2cyle oil poored into center pocket of case half to prelube the waterpump shaft, and gasket sealer on case ready for other case half to be set on

Lower case half all torqued down

Used 4 of the long cylinder head bolts threaded into to case half to flip over and use as a assembly stand worked good kept the rods up off the table as assembling and moving around while torqueing everything down.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Top End:

Here are some pic of the great workmanship on the porting, I would of liked to get some better pics but lighting in the kitchen is crappy

Stock bore ported cylinders

Best pics I could get of the porting, the enty where reeds go in could be smoother but when i took the engine apart some one did a weird modification and smeared JB Weld in this area trying to smooth the entry shape or something was really weird from dividers on the center port or around the side of the outer cylinder entry was filled and smoothed off I think tying to reroute the flow never seen anything like it before and took along time to get chipped and sanded out before I sent SHR the cylinder for him to do his work he smoothed them out some more and between what I didn and Him looks alot better than before.

Exhaust port opened up pretty good and smoothed out the side transfer type ports had alot of work done to them

46 thousands basegasket to be installed to raise port timing and shaved 20 thousands off the head to get 13.5 compression

like in a couple past posts I mentioned I was deleting or modifyiing my thermostat so here is a pic of my actual t-stat after I snipped the guts out of it and ground the edges down more smoother and leveler

Other side trimmed off and set in head right before I put the lower tube spout on

This is the stock bore MCB Coated piston top end kit, one thing that shocked me was the circlips were actually pretty easy to put in didn`t have to fight them like I have others got a rythm down I guess. these are pistons John sell that MCB and him designed.

PTO crankseal retainer installed loctited and torqued

Got the piston Installed, I installed the circlip in the inside of the each piston, dropped the wristpin cage bearing in 2 cycle oil I tested trying to slide the wristpin in the piston before trying to put on the rod and it started to slide in pretty easy but I went ahead and put both wrist pins in the freezer to shrink them and then they slid in piston even easier and installed the outer circlip. I really like the black outer coating its pretty slipper with oil on it and also like the holes in the sides of teh pistons for extra lubrication to the cylinder wall below where the ring pin is on the pistons. top of the black coating has small built in groves around the piston a few rows down for holding more fuel or oil for cylinder lubrication.

Base Gasket in place and Cylinders installed but not torqued down went over the the rings pretty easy
Washed cylinder down good couple times with warm water and soap to clean then wiped down with WD40 a couple times and then swiped in 2 cycle oil a couple times before sliding over the pistons

With cylinder setting on and bolts set up against them but still allowing movement of them I installed the Y-pipe with out the gaskets and easily tightened the y pipe down to hold the cylinders aligned and spare then I torqued the cylinders down in 2 steps like everything else that got torqued down.

Head installed with all new seals, Rave valves installed with new gaskets and Spring supplied by John, got he Stator and picups installed, flywheel plate and starter grabber part, just need to find the correct torque on the Mag Side Nut that goes on the crank the downloaded manual I purchased had everything and all specs I needed just couldn`t find the mag nut torque setting, got the starter adaptor ring installed, water pump housing, and the lower engine mount.

got the temp sensor and all electronics installed, I have deleted the the carb heater on this engine and also the Oil Injection a couple years ago so I made a block off plate for where the injection pump used to me,

Engine All assembled, here are a couple more pics of the porting with everything assembled

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Engine is all together to go in except I am freshening up the starter mechanism, installing a new not greasy rope and since it was covered with smuggy greasy cleaning it all up since it should not have any grease so I hear in it , I slightly greasy the pull start on my 670 before and in the cold the grease got to thick and sticky and wouldn`t let the cam over arm work correctly and wouldn`t grab the motor to start it had to tear apart on the trail and wipe out all the grease and worked great from there on out.

the starter mechanism should always have a new spread washer replaced when taken apart it the first part that comes off going to get one fron the dealer tomorrow and there is an o-ring between a the outer plastice pieces and the metal washer and that o-ring should not be worn flat it hold a bit of resistance for the mechanism to work correctly other wise it won`t work correctly.

this outer retainer should always be replaced

when the retainer and the outer 2 pieces come off this is where the O-ring is, Mine seems not flattened out and should be ok, at least after I clean it the starter will work better rather than having some of the premature pulls where the rope comes half way out before grabbing the motor or those dead pulls that grabs nothing.

Here is a couple of the greasy build up that should always be cleaned out you can also see it in the previous pic also

If your doin or plan on doin this Do Not take out the spring in the outer cover, that is a big mess and a real bitch to get back together correctly I went thru that with the 670 also so now touching it on this one, Lol

when I get the parts tomorrow then the engine will be going in in the next day or two.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Cleaned up the Engine compartment with some simple green and alot of wiping. then grabbed some Mothers Aluminun polish and shined the engine bay up more came out awesome, will have the tunnel super buffed out with my buffer and hopefully look chrome like when done the engine compartment took about and hour total cleaning and polishing.

Cleaned up

Here is a couple polished with Mothers Aluminum polish just with a red rag at first to get all the black that is wiped off the aluminum surface and some old terry cloth towels to finish the final wipe, this is one time of polish clean and final wipe

Here is one quick pic of the sidepanels being painted will post more pic of paintjog soon.
Old Yellow to Now Blue, going to look like an 09` XP Summit X Blue/White theme when finished

Enjoy, Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello guys, got the motor put in the sled as of yesterday and today, along with some painting on the panels but I will post the paint project pic after engine install is all complete.

to start with, I ended up just getting a pull starter mechanism rebuild kit and installing it after cleaning all the grease and much out of the original cover and rope pulley and installed new clean pull rope.

Got the motor set in the sled and pretty much everything connected and ready to fire other than I need a gasket for the top water neck, and I am going to remove the fuel line from the tank to the pump and remove the fuel tank and drain it and put in new fuel, old premix in it is starting to get that rotten smell and I am not running that thru a new engine. then sled is ready to fire.

Rebuild and cleaned start mechanism, replacement parts kit was $11.95 at dealer well worth it

Engine just set in on the mounts in the polished engine bay

Most all the wiring connected, all coolant lines installed, exhaust all put in, I will eventually have the pipe sandblasted, High heat coated or ceramic type coating, and will be installing a Dynoport Y Pipe.

New $110 shipped HPS can all installed, even polished or shined up this side of the bulkhead and the chaincase a bit, HPS can only weighs 4.5lbs

everything hooked up and installed on engine (except upper water neck gasket), all wiring installed,notice the plug in the head where I disconnected the stock carb heaters, never used them and makes removing the carbs for and tunning alot easier, carbs all cleaned and since this is a modded ported SHR topend torquer kit, had to install supplied .020 shimms under the needle clips in stock setting of the carbs, leave the jetting stock (400jets) recommended by John if running a big rich drop to 390 jets have them in tunnel bag ready for tuning, removed the Unipod fiilters and went back to the 07` Airbox and andprefilter powder sock over outer airfilter also will be adding SLP Highflow intake kit. and a couple more rear of side panel venting.

You can see the bigger inlet of the 07 airbox, it is fair amount bigger than the 04`airbox inlet. also supplied in Johns kit is alot thinner reed spacer moving the reeds and carbs closer towards the intake ports and pistons.

Here I got the clutchs installed, going to polish the outer diameter of the primary clutch, and here is a pic of the clutch cover polished.

Engine install all done other than cleaning the fuel tank out and firing the engine with new fuel and oil. I also have a Koso Mini Temp guage I will be installing on the dash to keep track of engine and coolant heat.

Enjoy, Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello everyone, workin on rebuilding the front suspension, Alternative Impact 37inch Black/Silver Hammer coater A arms, MCB Oil lite brass bushings, new upper A arm Heim Joints, New Ski Bolt bushings, reinstalled the modded 6.9 Pilot skis to the inside position until I make 4 spacers for each side of the spindle and center the ski w/ no offset in or out. Will be soon changing to Polaris Gripper Skis.

Lower balljoints are good but the rubber boots were torn and shot, so I found a pair of universal boots that seem to work good they seal tight to the balljoint and if I need to add grease just pull back the rubber and squirt some grease in should work good. Also changed out the A arm bolt that some one had pretty much a different length or size headed bolt in about every mount, was anoying so I got all new bolts and matchin poly lock nuts.

Here is another pic of the A arms

One of the coating design

Here is a pic of the MCB oil lite bushing installed I just had to sand the inside of the bushing area on the A arms a bit to clean up some powdercoating on the inside outer lips and with a spray of WD40 to the Arms and coated the bushings they slid right in, very nice fit.

All assembled other than I need to change the length of my tierods, Dan recommends to remove 3/4inch of the outside of each tierod and rethread it deeper for the tierod end to go back in.

Here is another cool touch Dan Machines into his Arms, don`t remember this on the first set I purchased from him a few years back, anway looks cool

I an also like mentioned before in the process also of repainting the body panels so the springs in these pic will be repainted blue and the shock are gonna be sent to Maize on Dootalk, He is offering a great deal on shock rebuilds excellent prices

Enjoy, Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello everyone, I had to order off ebay some different tierods, got a pair with all the insidei and outside ball heim joints for $40.

I had to get different tierods cause last season I narrowed up my stock A arms to end up with a final 35.5 stance and after shortenin my stock Tierods they are actually to short for the AI 37inch A arms not by much but I didn`t want that much thread hanging out the end so felt more confident to start over.

I`ll post pics of shortening them when they arive around Thursday.

I dropped off my Snow Eliminators and the XP bumper I purchased at my Powdercoaters today to have them coated matchin the front A arms along with the XP rear bumper I had purchased and modded and fit in a special way to my rear tunnel. that looks cool. Will post on that when coating is done and I reinstall them.

Man this sled has a TON of mods and custom changes done to it.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Finished my powdercoating project, I had the Snow Eliminators and my modded XP rear bumper coated to match the AI A arms.

Here is a pic of the boards and the mod I did the the rear tunnel to fit the XP rear bumper that I shortened, still need to get the XP 163 rear tunnel sticker on that matchs the rest of the sled.

Here is what I did to the rear tunnel to fit the bumper, set into place to mark and trim off the aluminum under the bumper

cut line

coated bumper installed

Also stripped all the old stickers off the tunnel then polished it before installing the eliminators and bumper

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Color change, went from Yellow/Black to Blue/White with 09` Summit X on sidepanels and still need to install the matchin tunnel decal

Krylon Fusion Patriot Blue/ Gloss White

after preping panels by sanding them with Red Scotch pad and warm water and Ajax to get a good scuff and cleaning the paint went on nice and covered really well on the sidepanels but it did take a couple extra coats for the White to cover the Black dash

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Completed Color change. I like it!!!!!

09` XP Summit X sidepanel decals, all 2 cool vent reinstalled sidepanels and hood. I also Hot Glued some pet proof mech inside the Nike lower openings of the sidepanels on both sides to keep powder snow out especially the Clutch side to keep snow off the belt also did the headlight opening for the headlight delete. I was running a BR Tech smoked hood with only the 2 cool center vent installed in it decided to run the stock hood and meshed headlight opening and the convienence of haveing a stock hinged hood and don`t have to remove the hood everytime I need to get in the front engine bay.

Still going to install an SLP Highflow intake in the LH sidepanel to get more air in the airbox. along with a vent on each sidepanel I am in the process of making. 2012 XP Freeride aluminum raised handlebars w/ grips and RSI heaters, 7inch Fly Risere, Snowbunjie handlebar bag, electrical controls moved to the bottom of the riser, Powermadd handguards that are gonna be changed to the White/Blue ones.

Mountain Addiction Track Rack with bag (wish I would of purchased the taller bag), gas caddy reinstalled, Polished Tunnel, XP bumper mod. yes I still need to tighten the bolts up on the bumper, Lol

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello, jus finished installing 162x2 1/4x15 Challenger track and skidoo 8tooth 2.86 drivers. Track is a 3.0 pitch and I have been told by a bunch of xp guys who have ran the 3.0 track on the stock 2.86 drivers with no trouble so will try it for a few rides and seel how it goes, first ride or two is going to be kinda light since I am breaking in a new engine.

This sled was geared down to 19/47 when I purchased it with the 144 track and I left it that way even tho I installed a 159 before riding it gearing still worked great and felt realy low, Now I decided to gear it back up to 19/45 since the new drivers are an amount smaller than the stock 10tooth 2.52 drivers should still be pretty low geared.

I also purchased a Powderjack, can`t wait to put it to use. anyone have any pick of how they mounted there jack to there sleds, I have a couple ideas but haven`t mouned it yet.

Still lookin for a descent pair of Poo Gripper skis either White or Black, let me know if you have any.

Thanks, Wildcard

 

[idahoskiguy]

Very nice build.

How many hours do you figure you have in this project?

What was your budget?

Asking because I have 2005 Summit X that my step son rides and considering doing something similar after the season. The Rev platform is a solid design and seems to take mods well.

 

[wildcard28]

Not sure the total amount of hours it would be a quite a bit but really about every mod I did to this sled didn`t take all that long each.

Wouldn`t know the budget or total I have In this sled it is a lot more than what I could get back out of it but that goes with about any mod machine usually, I know Its less than a New one for sure and comes pretty darn close to handling just like a new one with out all the more compact design, I would love to purchase a new XM but the engine bay is so cramped and I don`t want to remove most all the body panels no matter how long it takes to just get to where you can see the engine and I don`t have all the electronic scanner required equipment it would probably take to fit a new sled,

If you like tinkering on your sled and like to make it perform better than the Rev is definetly one to play with, I wouldn`t purchase an xp either and start modding it unless it had some mod parts, narrow 2012 front end and either a Tmotion already installed in it or some after market rear suspension, the tracks on the xp is a great track pretty much all years.

If you really like the 05 you mentioned then its worth improving!! just my 02

Mine is still Paid For, Lol

Good Luck, Wildcard

Wildcard

 

[Wyorever]

Nice work Darren, sled looks great.

 

[wildcard28]

Nice work Darren, sled looks great.

Thanks bud,

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello its been awhile but I got some more goodies installed on the sled today,

I purchased a set of complete Blue/Black Handguards w/ mounts from a fellow snowester for a great deal, thanks travydog!!

also installed my Powderjack went in pretty easy I purchased a $1.49 u-bolt and nuts from hardward store drilled 2 holes and installed the u-bolt inside the footwell area on the RH side, I used nuts on the u-bolt outside and inside of the tunnel incase I had to adjust the tightness or something then I used a previous hole that was already in the back of the tunnel not sure why but it worked mounted the furnished studbolt there that the jack slides over and kodder pins in place give the jack a light pump of the handle to talk and slack or rattling out and Done. this is gonna be sweet only weight 4.5lbs and really don`t feel that heavy.

also put a nylon strap loop around the rear bumper and back down to the snowflap to hold it up a bit so it doesn`t get eatin by the track in reverse or loading in the truck or trailer, did this last couple years works good.

I believe its all done and ready to ride now, just need to get enough snow to get out has been a slow slumpy winter around here, snow up there just not that good
goona run the swapped, modded and cutout 6.9 pilots I have had on it until I find the Grippers, just haven`t found a descent set yet, I set the pilots to the center position with spacers each side of the spindles so I can move them in or out as much as I want but going to leave them centered for awhile and just learn all the balance points of the set up I have done so much work on.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello, got out for my first ride of this season finaly and Man this sled performs well, easy to lay over feels really light and after studying the learning from the Schooled vids I purchased that sets my riding style into a whole new perspective it looks so intimitdating and figured it would just feel wrong hanging of the side of the sled and trying to hang on and not being able to control the throttle but I was impressively surprised how easy is actually is, pulled it off my very first time and many times over, I would immediately learned the advantage of the Free Leg once the sled over balances to the ground on a powerturn or slow turnaround you will naturally put your free leg out to hold yourself up and it feels like second nature don`t think about it just do it and I continued this during the day in many difficult spots and Everytime I turned the sled back up hill and so far only got stuck on the end of the turnaround headed back up hill I was goin around a stump and got sucked in the the under the snow open hole and bam / barried but I had downhill turnarounded and was headed back up when I stuck it BUT I DID IT Man this feels good, did this on the flat several time too and found an easier way to turn around not only used reverse twice in the day on the narrow trail.

the narrow AI 37inch arms are a Great improvement in trying to pull this off no doubt about it.

I also got to play with my Garmin Rino 650 that I purchased impressed with this unit also, I just had not received my 24k topo maps before I got out for the ride but wish I had the maps then cause the detail is awesome, been playing with it around town here and love it so far.

The SHR engine is a Powerhouse , throttle response is great and the pull is Huge difference, this was a difinate help in how the sled performed and climbed all day, just wouldn`t stop stayed at RPM no matter what snow conditions and just pulled and pulled.

Very Happy, Hope to get out again soon If I can get anyone to go.

Wildcard

 

[Mxz modman]

Hi I new to the forum.
I have a 2004 Mxz renegade rev with a 136 under it. I would like to put the 154 Xp skid and track under it but what I would like to know is can I put that long of a tunnel extention on it with out compromising the structural integrity? I've done lots of reading and see lots of people going to the next size track and skid but not finding anything about jumping two sizes. I know I will have to change my drivers to the proper pitch for the xp track. The main thing I'm wondering is can I safely do that big of an extention and does anyone make a tunnel extention for that size of conversion or will it need to be a hand made extention? Thank you for reading and any help you might be able to give me