Has anyone installed a C3 or CMX belt drive in an Iqr chassie? I need to lose the stock water cooled caliper due to fitment issues for a set of rack carbs. Thanks for any help. Jay
C3 or CMX belt drive in IQR
- Thread starter Jay
- Start date
I haven't done it yet but I do have one on the way, as the IQR will accept either the EDGE or the IQR cases without mods.
I do have a Couple Edge cases I modified to hold a Wilwood Dual piston Caliper. I rolled the caliper towards the back Away from the engine to help with clearances for Triples in my mod Edge hill climbers. One is the original Aluminum prototype and the second one is one of the many Magnesium EDGE RMK Cases I have done.
I do have a Couple Edge cases I modified to hold a Wilwood Dual piston Caliper. I rolled the caliper towards the back Away from the engine to help with clearances for Triples in my mod Edge hill climbers. One is the original Aluminum prototype and the second one is one of the many Magnesium EDGE RMK Cases I have done.
What do you need for your IQR caliper? I think I'm about to perform surgery on mine and I want a backup.
PM me with your cell or email and I will send you a pic or two and we can go from there.
If anyone has more of the Magnesuim EDGE cases and wants this mod done. I can perform the mod for a modest fee. It involves cutting all the heavy crap off of the top and milling a portion of the cut off piece to fit on the side to bolt the caliper to. The newly milled bracket is welded into position and the holes for the caliper drilled, tapped and Heli-coiled. Wilwood Dyna-light single is the one that fits the newly modded case. Have a couple of those kicking around still also.
Hi Jay
Im not trying to talk you out of a D&R (I would love to hear how a 1200 IQR works with a D&R belt drive system!) but when I did the rack carbs in my IQR 1200 I just cut the coolant passage off my caliper, I made 2 hacksaw cuts on the calper casting 90 degrees from each other to remove the majority of the coolant port casing and the 2 steel hose nipples, I then cleaned up the excess casting with a die grinder and a carbide bit (use lots of WD-40 to keep the bit from pluging with aluminum)
its still a pretty tight fit but should work, if you keep a look out some mikuni rack slide carbs came with a vent nipple that was bent to a 90, helps the mag vent hose clear the caliper better.
if you dont want to cut up your caliper you can also try a caliper from a 900 RMK, bolts up but desnt have a coolant passage.
another problem you might run into with the Mikuni racks is the drain hoses on the float bowl plugs wont clear the bulkhed properly, you can use float bowl plugs from a 2003ish King Cat, they wont have the drains in them.
Oh and if you do wreck your caliper I have a spare, send me a pm and I can prob have it to you in a couple days.:beer;
Im not trying to talk you out of a D&R (I would love to hear how a 1200 IQR works with a D&R belt drive system!) but when I did the rack carbs in my IQR 1200 I just cut the coolant passage off my caliper, I made 2 hacksaw cuts on the calper casting 90 degrees from each other to remove the majority of the coolant port casing and the 2 steel hose nipples, I then cleaned up the excess casting with a die grinder and a carbide bit (use lots of WD-40 to keep the bit from pluging with aluminum)
its still a pretty tight fit but should work, if you keep a look out some mikuni rack slide carbs came with a vent nipple that was bent to a 90, helps the mag vent hose clear the caliper better.
if you dont want to cut up your caliper you can also try a caliper from a 900 RMK, bolts up but desnt have a coolant passage.
another problem you might run into with the Mikuni racks is the drain hoses on the float bowl plugs wont clear the bulkhed properly, you can use float bowl plugs from a 2003ish King Cat, they wont have the drains in them.
Oh and if you do wreck your caliper I have a spare, send me a pm and I can prob have it to you in a couple days.:beer;
Thank you very much, thats exactly what I needed to see. I've just spent the last couple of hours mocking everything up and damn is it tight. I've got float bowl plugs with the nipples cut off and sealed. I've got a set of Brads carb adaptors but there isn't even enough room for the rubber boots he supplies, I'll have to come up with some straight hose or maybe use 600 HO boots? they are a little narrower but with the angle they are cast at I think I'll have trouble with them also. What did you use to mount the carbs on yours? Loudhandle my email is tsunami@bulkley.net so your saying one of your modified edge chaincases will bolt right up and give me a poorboys DNR? I'm very interested in that. Please sent me a pic or two. Thanks guys for the help. It seems like everything I decide to do is "not normal" just once I'd like to walk into a dealers and order a part off the wall. :face-icon-small-con
Jay, The Edge Case is the same Center to Center distance, and the mounting locations for the case are identical to the IQR case. So no it is not a drop and roll, it is a direct bolt in. The large Hydro formed drive shaft will not fit the EDGE case but the hexagon Edge and IQR drive shafts are a direct bolt in. Pics are on the way.
Im not sure what carb boots you got from brad, Im assuming they are a reducer to fit the smaller dia Mikuni carbs?
I used straight hose on the intake adaptor, in order to match the OD of the intake i used plastic bushing's on the carb throat to make up for the smaller mikuni OD, I got the plasic carb adaptor bushings from PAR.
this is the only photo I have of the intake
oh and here are a couple photo's of the way I rerouted the coolant hose from my brake caliper.
I used straight hose on the intake adaptor, in order to match the OD of the intake i used plastic bushing's on the carb throat to make up for the smaller mikuni OD, I got the plasic carb adaptor bushings from PAR.
this is the only photo I have of the intake
oh and here are a couple photo's of the way I rerouted the coolant hose from my brake caliper.
T
Is RMI stll around, what about there direct drive?
Thank you for the pics, that is exactly what I am dealing with right now. After trial fitting last night I realized the only way these will fit is with a straight hose, just like in your pics, so I picked some up today and will try again tonight. You can see how the last guy cut up Brads rubber boots to get the lectrons to fit. The other pics shows the problem with the stock caliper. Where did you get the hoses you are using to bypass the caliper? you wouldn't have any part numbers? and thanks for the tip on the 900 caliper, I'll be calling a few guys around the valley tonight that might have one kicking around.
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Nice builds!!!
I am starting out with lectron 44mm on mine.
Metering rods and setting fixture showed up from lectron today.
I also ditched the angled rubbers and used straight silicon hoses for the intake.
I am planning on building a airbox for it as well.
I got some 90deg 2,37" to 3" silicon reducers on ebay.
The plan is to use bellmouth intakes in the air box to connect the silicon hoses from the carbs.
I might have to cut them up a bit to get the center distance close enough.
Air will be drawn from the center console and i might make a intake on the left hand side panel.
There is plenty of room to run a big intake hose over the clutch guard.
I am starting out with lectron 44mm on mine.
Metering rods and setting fixture showed up from lectron today.
I also ditched the angled rubbers and used straight silicon hoses for the intake.
I am planning on building a airbox for it as well.
I got some 90deg 2,37" to 3" silicon reducers on ebay.
The plan is to use bellmouth intakes in the air box to connect the silicon hoses from the carbs.
I might have to cut them up a bit to get the center distance close enough.
Air will be drawn from the center console and i might make a intake on the left hand side panel.
There is plenty of room to run a big intake hose over the clutch guard.
Jay,
it looks like your on the right track with your carbs, once you clean the coolant pipe off your caliper the carbs should fall right into place.
unfortunately I dont have a PN for the 1" hoses I used, they were just a 45 degree heater hose that the local NAPA had in stock and I didnt save the PN. if you cant find anything maybe you could try using a Gates Unicoil to make the bend around the chain case?
Andreas,
sounds like your sled is coming along nicely, Make sure you post up some photos of your airbox, Id like to see what you come up with, I had plans of building an airbox to draw air from the LH side vent near the clutch cover but ended up building a snorkel by the handelbars instead.
it looks like your on the right track with your carbs, once you clean the coolant pipe off your caliper the carbs should fall right into place.
unfortunately I dont have a PN for the 1" hoses I used, they were just a 45 degree heater hose that the local NAPA had in stock and I didnt save the PN. if you cant find anything maybe you could try using a Gates Unicoil to make the bend around the chain case?
Andreas,
sounds like your sled is coming along nicely, Make sure you post up some photos of your airbox, Id like to see what you come up with, I had plans of building an airbox to draw air from the LH side vent near the clutch cover but ended up building a snorkel by the handelbars instead.
I found a caliper from an '05 900 at a dealer in Terrace, a friend of my daughter is going to school there and will bring it to me tommorrow when he comes home for the weekend. I'll figure out something for the hoses for now but I'm planing a major overhaul this summer and I'll do it right then. Andreas I'd love to see what you come up with for an airbox also, thats another summer project. This thing needs to be running for the 23rd, thats when I promised the wife she'd have it. Oh well, saturday is going to be a long day. :face-icon-small-dis
Here's a couple of pics from before I started into the carb swap.
Here's a couple of pics from before I started into the carb swap.
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T
got another pic of that hood, the one on sled deck..
Very jealous of that seat, I can't find one anywhere..
Very jealous of that seat, I can't find one anywhere..
I have the 900 RMK caliper installed and have fabricated a copper coolant line to get me from the exchanger in the tunnel to the waterpump on the engine. I used copper tubing because of the proximity of the exhaust pipes. Twostroke here is a pic of the hood, the hood wasn't on in that pic on the deck of my buddys truck, I think you were seeing the pipes. The seat was just on it when I bought it, I don't know where to get another one? Tommorow I will fit the carbs, install the heads, and maybe even flash this puppy. :face-icon-small-hap Just wanted to say thank you to Brad @ PAR for the original build on this thing, damn fine build and a pleasure to work on, sorta, it reminds me of a phaser the way everything is stuffed in there, but real nice quality and fitment.
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Sweet looking sled Jay! I bet you could signal passing aircraft with all the crome and polished aluminium on that thing, WOW!
Nice work on the caliper and coolant hose carbs should fit with minimal trouble now, except for the intake boots they always seem to be a fight!
If you havent installed them yet, I would definitely recomend a set of pro jets. they make life SO much easier!
good luck with the test and tune, you should like the new set up, I dont have any experience with the Lectrons yet, but I am pretty happy with the Mikuni's, throttle response is crisp, they're easy to set up and keep tuned, I even find the fuel milage impressive (for a 1200 2 stroke):face-icon-small-ton
Nice work on the caliper and coolant hose carbs should fit with minimal trouble now, except for the intake boots they always seem to be a fight!
If you havent installed them yet, I would definitely recomend a set of pro jets. they make life SO much easier!
good luck with the test and tune, you should like the new set up, I dont have any experience with the Lectrons yet, but I am pretty happy with the Mikuni's, throttle response is crisp, they're easy to set up and keep tuned, I even find the fuel milage impressive (for a 1200 2 stroke):face-icon-small-ton
Well after 6 hours +/- today of trying to get those carbs on I don't know whether to laugh or cry. The only way I could see them fitting was to put the manifolds onto the carbs, slide the carbs in and then bolt up the manifolds. I couldn't get at half the bolts so I gave up and figured I'll bolt up the manifolds and try to get the carbs into the hoses on the manifolds. Couldn't do it. Got the wife to help and tried attaching the manifolds to the carbs and bolting the manifolds up again, she has smaller hands and we got all the bolts done up and then went to put the coils on with the top two bolts, on the middle carb, the one bolt right in front of the cam for the throttle cable will not fit. No way no how. So it's back to bolting up the manifolds and trying to get the carbs into the rubber hoses again, it's the only possible way to install these carbs. This thing is starting to make a phaser look roomy. Oh and I also stripped out a bolt on the caliper, yaaay! of course I don't have any 10mm helicoils and who knows if there is any in town. It's going to be a miracle if I have this thing running for saturday. :face-icon-small-con Sorry for the rant boys, I'll be better tommorrow.
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Sorry to hear your carbs are being a nightmare, there are a couple things that might help you out,
I noticed. In your photo that it looks like your using silicone hose to mount the carbs to the engine? If so, You might try the typical black radaitor hose, I find if you use the black stuff it will hold its shape a little better than the silicone,
with that being said here's what I do to get my carbs on, Ill mount all 3 pieces of hose to the engine, then with the palm of my hand try and work the open end of the hose in an outward direction in an attempt to make the opening in the hose larger, once the hose is warmed up and flexable try installing the carbs, I try to slide them in at a fairly steep angle using a long flat blade screwdriver to help motavate the hose over the carb's.
Also for some reson (don't ask me why) I will be fighting with the carbs to no end with the intake hose on the motor, I will then try the hose on the carb and they will fall right into place (or visa vrsa).
One other thing that I noticed on your sled is it looks like there is a guard over the jack shaft? Depending on how tight your carbs get to that guard, it might help you get a little more angle on the rack when installing them if you removed that guard?
Just make sure you check the boots with a flash light before you tighten the clamps, I've had them feel like they're in place but the bottom side of the hose is kinked over inside the carb.
Hopefully this helps and you can get your machine on the snow for next weekend!
I noticed. In your photo that it looks like your using silicone hose to mount the carbs to the engine? If so, You might try the typical black radaitor hose, I find if you use the black stuff it will hold its shape a little better than the silicone,
with that being said here's what I do to get my carbs on, Ill mount all 3 pieces of hose to the engine, then with the palm of my hand try and work the open end of the hose in an outward direction in an attempt to make the opening in the hose larger, once the hose is warmed up and flexable try installing the carbs, I try to slide them in at a fairly steep angle using a long flat blade screwdriver to help motavate the hose over the carb's.
Also for some reson (don't ask me why) I will be fighting with the carbs to no end with the intake hose on the motor, I will then try the hose on the carb and they will fall right into place (or visa vrsa).
One other thing that I noticed on your sled is it looks like there is a guard over the jack shaft? Depending on how tight your carbs get to that guard, it might help you get a little more angle on the rack when installing them if you removed that guard?
Just make sure you check the boots with a flash light before you tighten the clamps, I've had them feel like they're in place but the bottom side of the hose is kinked over inside the carb.
Hopefully this helps and you can get your machine on the snow for next weekend!
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Thanks for the tips, I'll try them. Yes there is a guard over the jackshaft, I was going to pull it until I realized the fuel pump is bolted right through it, when I tried to take off the fuel pump I realized the nuts are under the tunnel and when you turn the bolts the nuts just spin also. Another summer project, remounting the fuel pump and losing the guard. Anyway the guard really doesn't take up to much space, altho ever thou. helps with this thing. I took friday off and I'll have it running if I have to stay up all night. :face-icon-small-dis
Edi: I can't take credit for the shine on the thing, I have a buddy who retired last year and is the king of shine, you should see his doo doo's and turbo yamy. He was bored awhile back and said gimme that thing, I'll shine it up.
Edi: I can't take credit for the shine on the thing, I have a buddy who retired last year and is the king of shine, you should see his doo doo's and turbo yamy. He was bored awhile back and said gimme that thing, I'll shine it up.
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Carbs are on, filters, fuel lines are in. Just need throttle cable, choke cable hook up a few coolant lines, pipes and it's time to flash it.
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