So my sled is stock and is ridden at 9500+ always off trail in Utah snow. I always ride in at least a foot of powder and like the trees. Last year was my first real year of real riding and got about 1400 miles in. I wanted to change the clutching a gearing for my riding area and weight. I am about 240 with gear and am extending the 154 to a 162. So I called Schmidt Brothers and they recommended the stage 2 kit with an 18 (I do see some post where people are using a 19) tooth gear along with closing the tunnel off. I don't care about top speed I would like to try to loose some of the trenching without spending 2 grand on a whole skid. What are your thoughts on this and is it worth the 500 dollars? Thanks for the input.
2008 Yamaha Nytro Fx Mtx modifications
- Thread starter wwillf01
- Start date
S
I have had and still have one Nytro and my suggestion is change out the front end and skid. Timbersled skid lightens the back 35 pounds and increases traction. Should be able to find a used Timbersled skid for 1k with fox floats.
2008 Nytro had bad front end geometry find a used Barkbuster (or equivalent) front end, the narrrower the better. I built a set of 36 inch arms that worked the best of the test sets.
2008 Nytro had bad front end geometry find a used Barkbuster (or equivalent) front end, the narrrower the better. I built a set of 36 inch arms that worked the best of the test sets.
Just going to a 162 track of better design than stock (ie, Ascent, CE, or Powerclaw- see multiple threads on this) will stop your trenching problem and surprise you. Next most important mod for handling in mountains and trees is replacing the stock front end with one of the narrower and forward swept designs (ie skinz concept or a couple others - see multiple past threads about them)
S
In my opinion yes. The 2008 front end change to aftermarket forward design will make a new sled out of it. See many diff threads on track and skids but the Timbersled was my choice.
If I had to doing things over again on my 08 I would do them in this order.
1. Steering relocator - puts bars in a more natural riding position. OFT racing
2. track - the OEM track was way too soft
3. Front end kit - Zbroz skinz CR. the TS bark buster will only lighten up the front end but doesn't do anything with the poor front end geometry of the 08
4. Rear skid - Toss up KMOD Timberseld
5 any and every lightweight part you can afford
6. Boost
Gearing and clutching after that. The newer sleds came with lower gearing to help with low end power under OEM boost applications. I am still am running stock gearing with a 163 powerclaw with no issues. The people I talked with told me that it really wasn't a necessity to gear down. there are two camps with regard to gearing, those who swear by it & those who say it isn't necessary. However clutching was something people did recommend to do to get better engagement.
I put boost last in my list because I still don't have that kind of cash. Most people put that first
1. Steering relocator - puts bars in a more natural riding position. OFT racing
2. track - the OEM track was way too soft
3. Front end kit - Zbroz skinz CR. the TS bark buster will only lighten up the front end but doesn't do anything with the poor front end geometry of the 08
4. Rear skid - Toss up KMOD Timberseld
5 any and every lightweight part you can afford
6. Boost
Gearing and clutching after that. The newer sleds came with lower gearing to help with low end power under OEM boost applications. I am still am running stock gearing with a 163 powerclaw with no issues. The people I talked with told me that it really wasn't a necessity to gear down. there are two camps with regard to gearing, those who swear by it & those who say it isn't necessary. However clutching was something people did recommend to do to get better engagement.
I put boost last in my list because I still don't have that kind of cash. Most people put that first
I love my 08 nytro mtx the only thing that I would change is my track.. I have a 174x2.5 I would go to a 162x3. And switch from supercharger to a impulse turbo
I am running
West coast sled front end kit with float 2s
Steering relocation OFT
Only a 2 inch riser with stock bars
Ezryde rear suspension
MPI stage 2b 280hp on 112octane
And some Clutching
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I am running
West coast sled front end kit with float 2s
Steering relocation OFT
Only a 2 inch riser with stock bars
Ezryde rear suspension
MPI stage 2b 280hp on 112octane
And some Clutching
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
T
1. Steering relocator and rollover valve
2. Skid. Cat skid goes in fairly easily and can be had cheap and works well
3. Skinz airframe running boards. I can't say how much better the sled is to ride. Instead of slipping off all the time there is NEVER snow on the boards.
4. Clutching. I switched to more of a two stroke setup and it works awesome.
5. Front end. The only reason I put this so far down the list is because it just makes it easier to ride. I don't think it allows you to get anywhere you couldn't before it just makes it a lot easier to get there. Without skid and track there are just a lot if places you can't go.
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2. Skid. Cat skid goes in fairly easily and can be had cheap and works well
3. Skinz airframe running boards. I can't say how much better the sled is to ride. Instead of slipping off all the time there is NEVER snow on the boards.
4. Clutching. I switched to more of a two stroke setup and it works awesome.
5. Front end. The only reason I put this so far down the list is because it just makes it easier to ride. I don't think it allows you to get anywhere you couldn't before it just makes it a lot easier to get there. Without skid and track there are just a lot if places you can't go.
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When you say a more 2 stroke setup did you buy a clutch set up or you tuned the clutch yourself... Is it a higher engagement?
T
No it just uses two stroke weights and different springs. If you were to talk to tom hartman of hartman inc its what he sells.
Any cat skid that is 2008 and newer will have the good setup. I did a thread on that with some pictures a while back. Just search cat skid into nytro. Almost drops the same weight as a timbersled but much cheaper. I got mine with zero miles on it for 500. You have to make drop brackets for it is the only really out if the ordinary thing.
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Any cat skid that is 2008 and newer will have the good setup. I did a thread on that with some pictures a while back. Just search cat skid into nytro. Almost drops the same weight as a timbersled but much cheaper. I got mine with zero miles on it for 500. You have to make drop brackets for it is the only really out if the ordinary thing.
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S
TS Barkbuster spindles do correct the bad 2008 geometry, but you are right they do not give you the special geometry of the other brands arms that move the spindles forward, which are the best but might not be as easy to find as Barkbusters.
Also it looks like I can use my stock suspension with zbros... Is that an issue if I am a powder/tree rider?
V
I'm currently in the process of doing this exact thing to my 2009 Nytro and here's what's on my parts list
1. Camo Extreme track 153x2.5
2. Skinz Airframe boards
3. Yamaha Rear bumper
4. Yamaha 2 wheel kit
5. Avid drivers
I'm also taking out the sway bar to get by for a year or so till I save up enough for a skinz or z-bros front end, haven't decided between the two. Leaving clutching and gearing as stock, isn't needed to change. Rear skid I've got set up pretty good for my riding style right now, but will have a Timbersled under there eventually.
1. Camo Extreme track 153x2.5
2. Skinz Airframe boards
3. Yamaha Rear bumper
4. Yamaha 2 wheel kit
5. Avid drivers
I'm also taking out the sway bar to get by for a year or so till I save up enough for a skinz or z-bros front end, haven't decided between the two. Leaving clutching and gearing as stock, isn't needed to change. Rear skid I've got set up pretty good for my riding style right now, but will have a Timbersled under there eventually.
If you are trying to get rid of some of the trenching on the stock 08 skid, the best result I had was to tighten the limiter strap all the way on the front of the skid. That helped a lot, but really the biggest difference was switching the track. Get a CE, a power claw, an Attack 20...pretty much anything is going to perform better than the maverick.
You may be able to pick up a used A/C skid and make it fit, but to keep everything under 500 bucks I think a track and tightening up the limiters is your best bet. It goes without saying that you'll add a bunch of ski pressure, but it will help the approach angle of the track and get it up on the snow easier.
I should add, once you swap the skid/track you can adjust clutching as needed. There are a bunch of great setups out there.
You may be able to pick up a used A/C skid and make it fit, but to keep everything under 500 bucks I think a track and tightening up the limiters is your best bet. It goes without saying that you'll add a bunch of ski pressure, but it will help the approach angle of the track and get it up on the snow easier.
I should add, once you swap the skid/track you can adjust clutching as needed. There are a bunch of great setups out there.
Thanks.. I already have a 162 ce so that is going on.. I have the steering relocator... Now I found for me running the limiter strap tight made trenching much worse... Maybe it is my skill level or my riding style.. But when I loosened them up it was way better.. So I will focus on some clutching..
I figured I'd toss my 2 cents in here as well.
Rear suspension (if your not wanting to replace it):
Tighten limiter straps, reduce the pre-load on the front track shock and crank the torsion springs to their stiffest settings. Set the rear coupling arm to couple as soon as possible.
Clutching/gearing:
I was constantly burning up belts on my nytro. Even with stock clutching/hartman clutching/ current clutching. I went through 10-15 belts before I swapped my top sprocket to an 18t. The smaller top sprocket along with ensuring minimal snow got to the clutches seems to have solved my problem. My current clutch setup is a Green White Green Yamaha primary spring and an Arctic Cat Yellow Secondary spring, stock weights just adjusted to get my RPM's where I want them.
Track:
Sounds like you've got the solution ready, but for anyone else reading this. Get rid of the maverick track...
I'm a big guy and these little changes didn't cost hardly anything (probably time to change your clutch springs anyway), but they seemed to make a significant difference.
Rear suspension (if your not wanting to replace it):
Tighten limiter straps, reduce the pre-load on the front track shock and crank the torsion springs to their stiffest settings. Set the rear coupling arm to couple as soon as possible.
Clutching/gearing:
I was constantly burning up belts on my nytro. Even with stock clutching/hartman clutching/ current clutching. I went through 10-15 belts before I swapped my top sprocket to an 18t. The smaller top sprocket along with ensuring minimal snow got to the clutches seems to have solved my problem. My current clutch setup is a Green White Green Yamaha primary spring and an Arctic Cat Yellow Secondary spring, stock weights just adjusted to get my RPM's where I want them.
Track:
Sounds like you've got the solution ready, but for anyone else reading this. Get rid of the maverick track...
I'm a big guy and these little changes didn't cost hardly anything (probably time to change your clutch springs anyway), but they seemed to make a significant difference.
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