Wideband O2 for dummies.....

What I didnt like about egt's, is that you could pass right by the burn down temp and then your temps drop as it burns down. But with the o2, its a rising scale 9:1 pig rich, 14.5 super lean. I have learned that there are good sensors and cheap sensor, what kind of guy are you? If your motor mean something to ya, then dont skimp on this guage. If you are going to run race gas, you need the guage that uses the ntk sensor. Fjo, Innovative, Ngk all use the better sensor upon request. The different is the bosch is 40-60$ and the ntk is 190-220$. But leaded fuels reduce the life of the bosch sensors drasticly. There are a few big articles about this topic on this web site http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=61325

Good luck in your decision.


Jim

to assist Nubulin

How accurate? Quick and responsive
Where does the probe go? I put mine between the pipe and the can
What A/F are you shooting for? 12.2 to 14.0
Are they really better than EGT's? Yes/ try running the sled and slam the throttle shut.. EGT"S go down but the A/F wil show you tht you better burp the throttle
Which one works the best for snomobiles? Powder dex is a good source- but there are alot more that are better for the bells and perl handle jobsWhat will you see when you are getting close to burndown?15.5 to 16 for an extended period/ I have seen 16 many times but you will se it idleing.

Also get a heat sink to prolong the life of the sensor- and don't worry about perheating it during the day-- it's ok, and has proven to live..but a good warm up 1st thing after unloading is best....

MD

Hey M-Doo:

Quinton here down in Longmont. I am ready to install a KOSO O2 gauge. I've been told to put it in the pipe and others have said install it in the can. Is one area better or more accurate or is there not enough diff to speak of???

I'm currently running a ceramic coated Speedwerx pipe and can but......Im changing to a ceramic coated Ultra Q. any thoughts?? How about a pic of your probe installation??

Nubulin said:

I get the idea that EGTs are a thing of the past and a better way to watch and tune your sled is wideband O2 sensors. Can anyone shed some light on how they work? I get the basic concept, but not the practical application

How accurate?
Where does the probe go?
What A/F are you shooting for?
Are they really better than EGT's?
Which one works the best for snomobiles?
What will you see when you are getting close to burndown?


Thanks!

Click to expand...

Not knowing the application it is hard to say were the sensor will go or what numbers to shoot for.

A o2 sensor measures the level of oxygen in the air around it, they respond pretty quickly and accurately, some more than others. The air you are sucking into you face right now is 20.9% oxygen. Typically a wide band will read from around 10 to 20.9. Your motor will never burn all that oxygen you put into it, never. At 14.7% oxygen in your exhaust the burn is most efficient and clean meaning for that amount of fuel you are getting the most out of it. Keep in mind this is to lean to make power out of a 4-stroke and a 2-stroke will burn up if it is wide open at 14.7. The more oxygen present in your exhaust the leaner it is. One thing that happens is you could be pig rich lets say 10.5 and it starts miss firing you look at your gauge and it will read lean, like 14 or 15. What just happened is you engine did not light the fuel so it still has that 20.9 % oxygen blowing into your exhaust and your o2 reads lean. When you let off the throttel there is no fuel going into the motor and it will read lean as well, it wont melt anything, no fuel, no heat, just cool air. That is my take on it, hope it helps.

Although the oxygen sensor does measure excess oxygen in the exhaust it is using that to determine air/fuel ratio and that is what is displayed. The ideal ratio for combustion is about 14.2:1 meaning 14 times as much air as fuel. A higher number means more air less fuel and a lean condition. A lower number means less air and more fuel or a rich condition.

Boondocker and Bikeman both recomended the can for installing the sensor,but said the pipe would also work. Koso is easy to install (less wiring)and doesn't require calibration like the Innovate LC1.

o2

12.7 is were the motor makes the most power
14.7 is optimal for fuel mileage under no load you will see 15, 16 ,17 on the trail with no load with no troubles.
turbos are running in the 11,s.
i use the dynojet.
it has many options that including data recording, and can also turn on and off components. i use mine to turn on my nos at 97% throttle.
if interested in this o2 check out there website. evaneaser on here is a dealer for them.
put the sensor in the neck of the inlet of the can

Any other brands out there that you reccomend? I'm looking into one, need to wait until my account recovers, but don't want to skimp on quality.

I have the innovate and it is very cool. the 02 sensors are sensative to heat. If you put it in the pipe it has a much greater chance of overheating- been there, done that, putting it too low in the can will cause fresh air reversion and a misread- sucks a little amount of fresh air up the exhaust at lower RPM's - been there done that. in the neck of the can is a good place if space permits. I have destroyed two sensors already from overheating and it didn't matter where they were placed. Make a copper heat sink. I took a scrap piece of 1.5" copper type L pipe about 3 inches long, cut it longitudinally ounce, pounded it flat, rounded the corners a little and drilled a 15 mm hole in the middle. Just thread the sensor through it into the bung and bobs your uncle. Innovate also has for about 85 bucks a heat sink type bung extender that helps as well. Just curious as to what mods you have or are considering that lead you to needing a tuning aid like this.