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Has anyone had problems removing the clutch from a 2009 Polaris Dragon?:face-icon-small-sad
Might want to post this in the Polaris forums. Likely will get much more readership there.
What worked for me was to heat up the back side of the clutch with a heat gun, put teflon on the threads of the puller, put around 90 ft lbs on puller, clamped a vise grip to the end of the puller gave an out word hit on the vise grip with ball pin hammer and came right off.
Some dealers have a T-handle puller to do this with, not sure wear they get them, maybe they make their own.
try this as well, roll sled up on its side with clutch up, fill the center hole with oil, put teflon tape on puller threads, run in by hand, tighten down as tight as you can with a breaker bar , then smack the end of the puller with a hammer(polaris says this wont hurt the crank/motor) I have had to resort to this a few times over the years and it works..although I try not to...now once its a part, clean both the crank taper and clutch taper with fine sandpaper or scotchbrite pad until they are spotless, clean with brakleen on a rag, and assemble dry, torque bolt to spec, fire up sled, warm it up good, even brap it around the yard for a few minutes, then retorque the bolt again, same after the first ride, retorque the bolt...any contamination/rust/dirt on the tapers will make them hard to remove...and do not put anything such as oil, sealer on the tapers either..bone dry and clean on assembly...on the secondary, make sure the splines are clean, again..same way as on the primary, but on these use a very fine grease(polaris grease works good)because you want the secondary to float......
only bad thing about heat..most aluminums will lose strength if heated up even as little as 350 degrees, which could weaken a clutch...heat is always a last resort for me, and normally only if the clutch is junk....
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