2010-2011 m8, what do I look for?

Jooohan87 · Jan 9, 2017

Hello

Im looking for a 2010-2011 m8, and have some questions for what problems it may have.

1. First, is it any diffrence between the 2010 and 2011 model?

2. I have heard that they have clutch issues? what is the fix for that?

3. Change all bearing to better ones in DD and I will be okey?

4. Is there any other known issues on the m8?

5. How many miles is MAX if you were going to buy one?

thanks

Glock41 · Jan 9, 2017

I have run a 2010 for the last 6 years. Very reliable sled. It has been pull and go from day one

The secondary has a bushing in it that wears out, some guys say as early as 2000 miles. Mine is still fine.
The spider in the primary is prone to breaking and the steering can have issues especially on the sno pros with the adjustable post.

I had racin station put a billet spider in my primary so I didn't have to worry about it. They can replace the bushing in the secondary also.

Mine has 2200 miles on it and I am considering a new top end after this year. Probably over kill but better safe than sorry.

They were one of the most reliable sleds around when they came out but I would try to find one with less than 2000 miles if it was me.

Jason

MountainCat1 · Jan 9, 2017

2010 Sled of the Year

'10 M8 LTD Black, GREAT SLED; Still have mine; 950 miles & not for sale. The '11s changed colors & got a shock re-valve. Changed my fox float 1's to '11 specs, but better yet, added HyGear dual canisters to front & rear for a way improved ride/handling. Added an anti-slop steering bushing to the adj post & a 2.6 PC track & a HPS can for weight loss. This sled has been just pull and go. I plan to look at clutching this season (no problems) to hopefully address long term durability issues. I plan on keeping/riding this sled even tho I have a new '17 MC 8000 (MAYBE The '17 Sled of the Year!)

Tmann · Jan 9, 2017

The primary clutch on most cats has been an issue for awhile. Check around the base of the steering post at the bulk head behind the motor for cracks, lower A Arm bushings for cracks, and check the skid for small cracks near the bolts. I have one with about 3500 miles. Just replaced the entire primary due to a bad spider. I may check into that billet spider that was mentioned above.

The oil reservoirs warp at the neck so you need to get an insert for that and the gas tank necks crack on some years and models. Theres lots of talk on there about that issue. Great pull and go sleds.

I've heard that the shocks on the 11 are a much better setup than the prior years. I personally don't have experience with that

fishhunter18 · Jan 10, 2017

Almost 5000 now on my 2011 and run like new!
Driven replaced once and still have the original primary BUT...I put MDS weights and the ABC kit in it. I replaced only the rollers last season just in case.

Added a mount below the oil tank, BDX steering post bushing and never broke or crack it. Check the engine mounts and replaced it with softer Duro.Check the APV cable EVERY season and adjust/replace them.

Next step, MC 2017 for sure........

Glock41 · Jan 10, 2017

fishhunter18 said:
Almost 5000 now on my 2011 and run like new

Are you still on your original top end?

fishhunter18 · Jan 10, 2017

Glock41 said:
fishhunter18 said:

Almost 5000 now on my 2011 and run like new

Are you still on your original top end?

Click to expand...

Sure. My mechanic's said still good for a lot more. He does his 10' with more than 11000km (6835 miles)! But next year i will do the top and keep it for spare at cabin. I'm going to test drive the MC 2017 next week so....

Glock41 · Jan 10, 2017

I'm getting a mountain cat as well so my m8 will be handed down to my son. Sled still runs great so maybe I will let it go another year

NVRBL8 · Jan 10, 2017

I have a 2011 that just crossed 5000 miles last weekend. I also have a 2014 M8000 (big bore from day 1) with almost 4000 miles and now a Summit 850. I ride sleds pretty hard and the 2011 has taken the abuse and still keeps on going. Like the others above have said, the clutches - especially the primary - need service if you ride them hard. I typically replace the primary at the end of each season as the rollers wear and eventually wear the ramps. I also make sure to blow the dust out of the clutches after each ride.

The motor has been spot on and I have never changed the plugs or done anything to it, other than I shaved the head to compensate for my typical riding elevation. It is still pull and go.

I have the adjustable steering column and the post broke after year 2. But since then the new post has been just fine. It does wear at the bottom bracket/pivot and results in play so you may want to investigate options as the guys above have said.

My diamond drive has been fine the entire time. Changed the oil once during the first year. Never since. Seems like I am running an experiment now!

Jooohan87 · Jan 10, 2017

Many thanks for the answers!

I know many have ridden more miles, But how much is 3000 miles on theese machines? Ticking bomb or?

About the clutch, does the 12-15 proclimb primary clutch fit the 2010-2011 when it is the same engine?

fishhunter18 · Jan 10, 2017

Same primary yes. You can ride 2 more years before thinking for a top end imo.

Jooohan87 · Jan 10, 2017

fishhunter18 said:
Same primary yes. You can ride 2 more years before thinking for a top end imo.

What do you mean by "thinking for a top end"? And why?

fishhunter18 · Jan 10, 2017

Only if you're insecure, do the pistons and rings.

mbcat · Jan 10, 2017

Don't touch it until 5k. Watch primary for stuck rollers & cracked spider. Have a billet spider installed & balance clutch. ABC kit is a nice addition too. Mag side mount every 2000 miles & have Mel rebuild your sec hub/bushing

mbcat · Jan 10, 2017

Oh yah enjoy riding the piss out of it!

Tmann · Jan 10, 2017

Jooohan87 said:
What do you mean by "thinking for a top end"? And why?

I think he means you should consider "freshening up" the top end in 2 years or at 5000 miles. The motors are strong but the clutches are the weak point. I would rather replace clutches than motors any day of the week. It wouldn't hurt to do some rings and pistons at 5k just to make sure everything is good to go for another 5 k.

Glock41 · Jan 10, 2017

ive heard of guys doing a new top end at 2k if they do a lot of mountain riding but I've also heard of flat landers getting 10 k plus out of them.

Here's the deal, if you wait til it blows it will be a lot more expensive and harder to fix than replacing the top end before hand.

I personally think a new top end at 2k is over kill even if it's been ridden hard

I think it's great that some guys are getting 4 or 5k hard miles out of them but for me anything over 4 thousand mountain miles on an 800 twin is pushing it

catzr · Jan 17, 2017

I had a 2011 m8, loved that sled, did the top end at 3600 for caution but it looked great.primary and secondary clutches were still original, MDS clutch kit rocks, just replaced the springs yearly. only Diamond drive issue was because of the narrow tunnel syndrone. also replaced the drive axle brgs and spark plugs at 2000 miles. the sled is awesome, I had great luck, have fun

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