What would you do?

jbusch · May 12, 2014

I currently am riding a 13 proclimb with a bunch of stuff done to it.
Cutler big bore
Mountain fit hood with headlight delete
BDX front end
anti stab
mmx front bumper

This summer I will be adding
cutlers 58mm throttle bodies
and here's is where I am torn
3" CE track or TKI belt drive?

Love some thoughts on this.

anziconda · May 12, 2014

I'm in the same boat...2014 prolite....I've decided against the 3" and am going to put the tki belt drive instead. The 2.6 power claw has worked great for me and I love the way this sled runs as a package. I'm afraid if I changed to a 3" it may change the way the sled rides/handles and I might not like the change. Installing the belt drive eliminates the weak chain case assbly. In the arctic ats and should put power to the ground a little more efficiently. My .02 cents....

05900 · May 12, 2014

TKI if you want to.. Track when and if you need to. RIDE IT. Sounds like it's dialed.

Phizzer · May 12, 2014

Belt Drive. You've got the 2.6 already, run that thing until you need a new track. Sounds like its a fun sled already, should be a nice upgrade!

jbusch · May 12, 2014

The belt drive is the direction I'm leaning as well I just can't imagine .4 inch can make that big of a difference. Also, there's another thread on here relating to the 3inch and the thread says it changes the ride a lot but that guy loves it. My sled is a blast to ride and I'm thinking the tki will drop another 10 or so lbs as i am running an oil delete. It's getting pretty light which helps a lot in the trees. It's getting hard to keep the front end down. Not that i mind that.

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boondocker97 · May 12, 2014

I personally am going with the belt drive option. I don't think a 3" is in the cards for me since I like to be able to slide the rear end of the sled around a bit. I'm sure the 3" will help with more traction and be better when the snow is deep, but I don't want to start loosing maneuverability when there is less than 18" of snow.

Thunder101 · May 12, 2014

x2 for the belt drive.

58mm throttle bodies. thats big :face-icon-small-sho

av8er · May 12, 2014

If you already have the 2.6"PC

do the belt drive for sure, You won't gain much fro the 2.6 to the 3".
I ran a 3" last year and there are a few negatives with the 3".
1. heating issues during spring riding, 2. track edges catch once in a while if trying to corner aggressively. 3.track makes a lot of windmill noise over 50MPH.

backcountryislife · May 12, 2014

Track is pretty cheap, the 2.6 is worth good money if it's in good shape so the swap doesn't really cost much.

I'd be curious to see what difference 58mm T-bodies actually make, can't see that being worth the $$.

I'd do track & TKI, and skip the complication of adding the T-bodies & adding another tuning risk.

boondocker97 · May 12, 2014

58mm throttle bodies seem pretty large unless you are going to add a turbo too. Seems like you would lose throttle response. Stock are 46mm and Bikeman only runs 50mm ones with their 900 big bore kit. I've heard the 50s add 3hp over the 46s with the big bore so you are probably looking at less with an otherwise stock 800.

jbusch · May 12, 2014

Spoke with Dale today and he actually talked me out of the larger throttle bodies. He said that they only gained 3hp with the 50mm throttle bodies on the dyno. So, decrease the altitude effect and then you have like 1.5 to 2hp. They are running stock throttle bodies on their sled. He also informed me that in order to swap out the throttle bodies you have to calibrate the tps, use a bunch of springs and parts from your stock throttle bodies. So, I will be keeping my stock throttle bodies on my sled. Which just saved me $450. Cool!

1rarel78 · May 13, 2014

I'm in the same boat but wondering, Tki or S.I.K kit from Toms. Leaning towards TKI.

live2beel · May 13, 2014

jbusch said:
Spoke with Dale today and he actually talked me out of the larger throttle bodies. He said that they only gained 3hp with the 50mm throttle bodies on the dyno. So, decrease the altitude effect and then you have like 1.5 to 2hp. They are running stock throttle bodies on their sled. He also informed me that in order to swap out the throttle bodies you have to calibrate the tps, use a bunch of springs and parts from your stock throttle bodies. So, I will be keeping my stock throttle bodies on my sled. Which just saved me $450. Cool!

Did you ever get a chance to ride with the other big bores? If so how did the 950 perform?

bradburck · May 13, 2014

I've got the 3" on my BB and am looking seriously at the TKI for this next year as well. The ole chain case makes me nervous and I love the weight savings and efficiency of the belt drive system. Sounds like a serious sled you're building.. keep us up to date on your thoughts and feedback. 3" was about a 250$ upgrade for me over the 2.6 and I've loved it, rides much differently, but in our consistently deep snow here in CO, it has been a big difference for sure.

nomasittinright · May 13, 2014

i did the 3"er and C3 belt drive last year and absolutely loved it, not 1 issue from either. i went with 2.52 gearing and 7 tooth avids the sled had more pull across the entire range. My vote is do both and sell your 2.6 for $500 and use the extra from the tb to pay the difference

jbusch · May 13, 2014

For those who changed the track did you do new drivers as well?

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jbusch · May 13, 2014

live2beel said:
Did you ever get a chance to ride with the other big bores? If so how did the 950 perform?

I didn't have much of an opportunity to ride with other big bores or turbo sleds this year. I tend to ride in small groups, cover more ground less of a sh$# show, but I can tell you I rode circles around my buddies 1000 thats both cylinder and case ported with a head, ypipe, pipe, can, and more mods. I'm a big guy 6'6" 220lbs in normal clothing not some shorty like bcil. Haha. Really great sled though. I usually upgrade every couple of years but this sled is the best I have ever ridden so far. No intentions of upgrading anytime soon. I love it

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nomasittinright · May 13, 2014

jbusch said:
For those who changed the track did you do new drivers as well?

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You don't "have" to change drivers but adding 7's will make it more efficient and help the gearing to compensate for the extra track

bradburck · May 14, 2014

jbusch said:
For those who changed the track did you do new drivers as well?

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I stayed stock and didn't have a single issue. Ran it really tight at the beginning for fear of ratcheting, but then loosened up over the season and it just flat out works. Keep taking the weight off, I couldn't agree more about best sled I've had as well. Just does all things well and matches up well with my riding ability. I did do the 19-tooth gearing which felt great and worked well in the trees. Really NO hill climbing for me all year long.

rockymtnboy · May 14, 2014

nomasittinright said:
You don't "have" to change drivers but adding 7's will make it more efficient and help the gearing to compensate for the extra track

just curious, why do u think it will be more efficent? bigger drivers will cause the track to have better rolling resistance, better track angle(attack angle), less vibrations and the speedo will still be accurate. (not that there are that accurate from factory!) i stayed with 8's as well, no issues

What would you do?

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