Please help. Setting up REV for better side hilling???

snowmanx · Jan 20, 2012

Picked up a 04 REV for backup/friend/family and had it out in Golden....IT has to be the WORST handling sled I've been on. I have ridden REVs before, and owned an XP(much better sled IMO) but this thing was like a tank to pull it over.

Had my brother on it who was a newbie, and he was having a heck of a time on it. I jumped on it and discovered why.....it was EXTREMEMLY difficult to pull over and just as hard to hold it in a side hill position. I was riding my Nytro and it was WAY easier.

I know they aren't the best sidehillers, but I should be able to set things up a little better, especially for newbies, cause they just aren't going to get it. I could ride it, but had to be VERY aggressive to get it to do what i wanted it to do. got an old 97 powder special that is easier to handle than that.

Thanks for any input.

JedInUtah · Jan 20, 2012

Move the steering post to the forward position.

Cut off the sway bar and throw it away.

Limiter straps loose in the front.

Front shock spring adjustment to your liking. I have mine on the second to stiffest setting.

Make sure your skis are spaced on the narrowest setting.

Sidehills easily.

gman086 · Jan 20, 2012

What Jed said (I'll emphasize going stiffer on the center shock and not so much need for straps out more unless dealer pulled them in too tight to begin with) plus G MAN track mod (agility of 15 wide with the float of 16 wide). You'll be running circles around XP's!

Have FUN!

G MAN

mil81 · Jan 20, 2012

Yup, all that should do ya. Make sure the limiter strap is loose enough to take the weight off the skis when you hit it, otherwise carving is a nightmare

snowmanx · Jan 21, 2012

JedInUtah said:
Move the steering post to the forward position.

Cut off the sway bar and throw it away.

Limiter straps loose in the front.

Front shock spring adjustment to your liking. I have mine on the second to stiffest setting.

Make sure your skis are spaced on the narrowest setting.

Sidehills easily.

Is there an adjustment to move it forward, or do you mean change the post out to a forward position style post? Thanks

mil81 · Jan 21, 2012

snowmanx said:
Is there an adjustment to move it forward, or do you mean change the post out to a forward position style post? Thanks

if you take all the top plastics off you will see where your steering post mounts at the top. If you un-bolt it and bolt the rear hole of the post to the front hole in the frame, that is what he was refering to. You then have to drill a new hole in the frame for the front post mount. It's a pretty easy mod, and makes a world of difference in the feel of the machine

gman086 · Jan 21, 2012

mil81 said:
if you take all the top plastics off you will see where your steering post mounts at the top. If you un-bolt it and bolt the rear hole of the post to the front hole in the frame, that is what he was refering to. You then have to drill a new hole in the frame for the front post mount. It's a pretty easy mod, and makes a world of difference in the feel of the machine

Yup, have to drill the Summits (the MXZ's have them pre-drilled to go either way for adjust-ability which is how the mod was discovered). After you do this you NEED to move the bars back by rotating the riser to be in line with the steerer post. What that does is keep a similar riding position but eliminates "swing" in the bars effectively putting more force into your steering for quick countersteer to initiate carves/sidehilling better. I have to laugh at the riders who keep their risers straight up and down after the mod as they've done nothing but move the bars forward (not needed on the Summits).

Have FUN!

G MAN

Danzick · Jan 21, 2012

i have found loosening the front shocks up helped. im not very heavy, i only weight 160 pounds(without gear) and my shocks are all the way soft and it made a big difference on pulling it over. mine side hills almost too easy, even with my little weight i have to throw around. You'll get it figured out.

rocks rev · Jan 21, 2012

gman086 said:
What Jed said (I'll emphasize going stiffer on the center shock and not so much need for straps out more unless dealer pulled them in too tight to begin with) plus G MAN track mod (agility of 15 wide with the float of 16 wide). You'll be running circles around XP's!

Have FUN!

G MAN

Track mod? How much did you cut?

chumbilly1 · Jan 22, 2012

You have to be aggressive with these. They are best with 43" front ends and z broz shocks!

snowmanx · Jan 22, 2012

Danzick said:
i have found loosening the front shocks up helped. im not very heavy, i only weight 160 pounds(without gear) and my shocks are all the way soft and it made a big difference on pulling it over. mine side hills almost too easy, even with my little weight i have to throw around. You'll get it figured out.

That is what I am going to do, I have noticed on my other sleds that they are easy to pull over and side hill with softer front suspension, we'll see.

mil81 · Jan 22, 2012

snowmanx said:
That is what I am going to do, I have noticed on my other sleds that they are easy to pull over and side hill with softer front suspension, we'll see.

Use caution when reducing the front spring pressure if you also pull the sway bar (which I highly recomend) if the ski springs are too loose with no sway bar the sled will really dive in the corners on the trail

gman086 · Jan 23, 2012

rocks rev said:
Track mod? How much did you cut?

You cut 1/2" off the side lugs so you effectively have a 15" wide paddle width with a 16" wide belt width. Everyone said I was crazy for doing this but it flat out works (agility of 15" wide with the float of a 16" wide). And now Camoplast is doing the exact same thing with their new Challenger Extreme's so who's crazy now?!

Have FUN!

G MAN

wag13 · Jan 23, 2012

gman086 said:
so who's crazy now?!

hahaha!!

Sawking · Jan 23, 2012

track

Whats the best way to do the track mod.

gman086 · Jan 23, 2012

Sawking said:
Whats the best way to do the track mod.

I used Harbor Freight nippers but a sharp utility knife works well too. Spray with silicone spray helps the cutting as does a sixer of your fave brew!

Cheers,

G

Danzick · Jan 23, 2012

sway bars seem to be side hilling killers. they want to keep the sled level, so i would just start by disconnecting the sway bar before you go crazy and cut it out, and loosen the front shocks and see how that turns out.

gman086 · Jan 24, 2012

Danzick said:
sway bars seem to be side hilling killers. they want to keep the sled level, so i would just start by disconnecting the sway bar before you go crazy and cut it out, and loosen the front shocks and see how that turns out.

Removing the stabilizer bar is fine but the LAST thing you want to do is soften the front shock springs after doing so! Sled will dive and squat, not to mention ski stance gets much wider as the sled squats more. You need to STIFFEN the front springs because each shock was borrowing rate from the other with them connected thru the stabilizer bar! I actually go to a completely stiffer spring rather than just crank the stock ones up as that usually isn't enough and you'll get spring binding too.

The big myth too many riders buy into is that you need to "roll" the sled over by force so softer front shocks and ginormous risers have become the fad with all too many Doo owners. The reality of carving/sidehilling is that you COUNTERSTEER and pivot the sled over on the ski spindle axis! So... yeah, technique IS everything!

Have FUN!

G MAN

Danzick · Jan 24, 2012

i noticed a big difference in the ability to lay mine over after i softened my front shocks mid ride... but hey, each rider is different. im sure you know your stuff g man.

gman086 · Jan 25, 2012

Danzick said:
i noticed a big difference in the ability to lay mine over after i softened my front shocks mid ride... but hey, each rider is different. im sure you know your stuff g man.

A lot of it is rider dependent. if you're really light you might get away with it. I'm a middleweight and could not. Even if you're a lightweight, you should consider going stiffer on the center shock which will take pressure off the skis and allow you to countersteer easier. That alone could make it so you don't have to go lighter on the ski shock springs.

Cheers,

G

Please help. Setting up REV for better side hilling???

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