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Steep sidehill help

ntm_08

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May 21, 2009
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My G4 154 is awesome! I have the adjustable limiter strap mounted and riding it in short position. Skis in the widest position.

I have ridden all mountains sleds and i have found some small things that could be better on the G4. The biggest difference is when sidehilling and when the rear slides down the front end has less contact or grip and dont have the effort to compensate for the rear sliding down. The rear sliding is in some way the t-motion foult, but it isn't that bad. Anyway the axys and m chassis does the same at some point but they seem to have better steering. More able to force the front end down without having to bail out. Mabye more steering angle or more ski to the ground or better skis, i dont know. Hoping its just a ski problem that solves this issue.

Whats your oppinion/experience? Anybody noticed better steering in sidehilling with other skis like slp pp? Have to find a way to get more control of the front end!

I have tried the 165' and the rear sits better in to the side, but the problem is the same. Just at a later time.

Thanks
 
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Chadly

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The running boards trick you into thinking you need to be buried in the front to get the nose down. From what I can tell when you do that the track gets light and slides out. You need to ride much farther back on the boards than an XM. Try standing where the boards change when you are doing a steep sidehill. I see a lot of guys say the 165 holds a better sidehill than the 154 but I have both sleds and I find the opposite. The 154 track bites into the hill much better than the 165 and holds steep sidehills easier. I'm just starting to get used to this chassis and being comfortable like I was on the T3. It only took me about 500 miles of riding it :face-icon-small-dis
 
P
Nov 28, 2007
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Yukon Canada
Let the limiter out to stock put the skis in the Narrow position (or get the poo spacers for at least the middle) stiffen up the rear springs if you are a heavy guy go to the big poo springs. No skid can work the snow properly if you suck in the limiter strap, that is a bandaid fix not a solution and the result is a skid that washes out. Try that it works for me.
 

rulonjj

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I rode some super steep sidehills on a 154 and didn't ever feel like it was washing out. It does carry the front end pretty high but can also make it stay in the hill better/easier because it's cutting the track deeper into the snow.


If it feels like it's slowing down to much, push the front of the sled out from the hill and let it plane out a little. You'll gain some speed and the front will fall into the snow a little.

Set the rear springs as stiff as possible and loosen the front track shock as loose as possible. You can also let the limiter strap out one hole to see if that helps.


I found that the G4 chassis also like my foot a bit further back for the best balance.
 

ntm_08

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May 21, 2009
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I agree on the limiter all the way out to help the track sit more in the direction you're going. The same for the back spring but i already have it on 3. And the runningboards do carry the waight off the front but this issue accure anyway without the bord touching the ground. The lack of steering is there anyway. I also have a 16 Viper mtx and that sled steer way better. On that its easy to make an elevator controlled sliding down . On the g4 the rear slides out if the nose is anywhere else than the lowest point.

And one tip that came up having the skis at the narrow position? I would think the widest keeps the runningbords out frome the ground?

Thanks
 

Ace Freely

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Let the limiter out to stock put the skis in the Narrow position (or get the poo spacers for at least the middle) stiffen up the rear springs if you are a heavy guy go to the big poo springs. No skid can work the snow properly if you suck in the limiter strap, that is a bandaid fix not a solution and the result is a skid that washes out. Try that it works for me.

X2

Ace
 
L
Aug 17, 2014
25
4
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sweden,boden
your problem is t-motion thats why it wash out, in sweden we got a little less of snow

and then i did my own t-motion limiters,

2 plastic washers at each side of t-motion ball joint and then you got more about axys feeling at the sled and less of wash out,

exactly the same problem at xm chassie.

im used acetal plastic material.

*4,5mm thickness,

*14mm hole

*30mm outside diameter.

with 4,5mm thickness the t-motion cant move anything.


easy and cheap for a less nervous sled and hitting straighter lines as axys.
 
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ntm_08

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May 21, 2009
151
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your problem is t-motion thats why it wash out, in sweden we got a little less of snow

and then i did my own t-motion limiters,

2 plastic washers at each side of t-motion ball joint and then you got more about axys feeling at the sled and less of wash out,

exactly the same problem at xm chassie.

im used acetal plastic material.

*4,5mm thickness,

*16mm hole

*30mm outside diameter.

with 4,5mm thickness the t-motion cant move anything.


easy and cheap for a less nervous sled and hitting straighter lines as axys.

I'm going for the skinz limiter bushings. And slp skis for more bite. Jay Mentaberry did this to his sled and is super happy. My dealer ordered the sea level clutch kit to get my rpm under control :)
 
L
Aug 17, 2014
25
4
3
30
sweden,boden
I'm going for the skinz limiter bushings. And slp skis for more bite. Jay Mentaberry did this to his sled and is super happy. My dealer ordered the sea level clutch kit to get my rpm under control :)

sweet, in sweden we have done weights by ourself, 6gram, the sleds here in sweden have 8450 top rpm at clicker 3, and after weights installed 8000-8100rpm at clicker 3 and rips alot more with weights.
 

Chadly

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I'm going for the skinz limiter bushings. And slp skis for more bite. Jay Mentaberry did this to his sled and is super happy. My dealer ordered the sea level clutch kit to get my rpm under control :)

I was told the limiter bushings are not compatible with the G 4...
 

b-litt

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Aug 21, 2012
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I would think the limiter bushings would work the same on any t motion regardless of the year. My experience is that they limit it for half a day to a day then they're worn out. There's a reason they come in a bulk pack. You go from limited to not so much to no limit t motion. If you're going to really test out the difference the skinz bushings are not the answer. That said I've had the t motion locked out with the ARC for 350-400 miles and love it! It still washes out like a Skidoo if you let it, but wont catch you off guard as fast. Defiantly less twitchy. Isn't it awesome that some of us pay for a feature such as t motion just to pay for something else to get rid of it...still money well spent. :)
 
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