changing the track on a m series

snowcatter said:

Be extremely careful turning a heart attack 20 backwards, you will greatly reduce your ability to stop.

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Stoping is overated anyways:face-icon-small-hap

Nice write up, i also did a Write up on changing the track

69charged said:

while kinda prying on the brake caliper while holding up the driveshaft with your left hand to help the caliper come out straight, it should just pull towards you. the driveshaft will kinda fall once you get it away from the tunnel. and thats ok. that is what you want. once it is at that point, you are ready to take the track out! you will have to wiggle the track around to get it out as it is not that easy with the 2.25" paddle in the way.
not too bad and it took me about an hour and 15 minutes to do this and put the other track in and that includes taking pics along the way and beer breaks for me and my helpers!
i hope this helps someone at some point. to reinstall it is exactly the reverse of this. dont forget to re-loctite the driveshaft bolt. some people take the brake rotor off and you can do it that way to if you have the tool or a punch and a hammer. it says to get a new nut every time but i have done it many times with the same nut. this way just saves a little time. nothing major.

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I'm working on a 2008 M8. Has anyone taken the caliper/double bearing housing off the end of the drive shaft? Is there a puller tool made for this, or am I missing something? I have the caliper apart and the rotor off. The shaft is off the DD. I want this off to replace the bearings.

I started this project due to the DD filling with water and overflowing through the groove in the threads of the bolt which holds the secondary onto the splined input shaft of the DD. I did not know that the cut in the threads was the vent for the Diamond Drive until I had already pulled the cover and replaced the input shaft seal. The only good part was being able to grease both sides of the input shaft bearing while I had the seal out. That bearing is not lubricated by the oil in the DD.

Getting back to the water issue, the seal on the drive shaft which protects the DD was missing! The plastic retainer was floating around,but no seal. Thus, snow/moisture gets forced into the DD around the output shaft.

I do not want to destroy anything while taking the caliper housing off the drive shaft. It looks like bearings need to slide over the spline which connects the rotor to the drive shaft. Is it rust or a keeper I don't see. Please educate me.

Twostroke said:

I've never done a track swap before, would this still be the same play by play for the 1m's?

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pretty much exept u have to pull ur chain n gears and then the bearings on both ends they r held in with three bolts and a lock ring on the track side

powerclaw

Just threw the power claw under the m10 and it was very simple thanks to the guys who took the time to make this thread.
I pulled the 5 bolts off the brake rotor mount and 4 bolts holding the pads and unscrewed the big 4 wing nut.Forgot to unscrew the bolt inside the driver and this caused an extra 15 minutes.Left the secondary on as well as the DD just pulled rotor off shaft and slide over and out dropped the shaft.dropped skid without loosening the rear 2 wheel adjusters just let the air out of shock and collapsed skid.
1 guy under an hr.
So all the credit to you guys. Without all the info would of been there all night pulling a bunch of stuff that didn't need pulled.
Thanks

Another thanks to M7 for the $200 power claw.:heh:

I change all my tracks without remmoving the DD. Even my 3" track. Just sayin', but I believe this is a very unnessasary step.

special tools?

when I the shaft from the brake side do you need the special brake nut tool and a new brake nut? I'm getting ready to put a 2.6 power claw on my 07 m1000 and i want to do any extra service it might need while I'm in there, any suggestions?