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Simple question....... Which spark plug do you run and why?
What Spark Plugs do you run?
- Thread starter Newby2sleds
- Start date
I run the stock '12 plugs... Once im out of them, ill run BPR9ES
Both good, problem free plugs, and the expensive iridiums etc... Dont create a hype for me.
Ultimately tho, ive always had better luck with NGK plugs over other options, in any small engines. And would say that any compatible NGK plug will suit you just fine!
Both good, problem free plugs, and the expensive iridiums etc... Dont create a hype for me.
Ultimately tho, ive always had better luck with NGK plugs over other options, in any small engines. And would say that any compatible NGK plug will suit you just fine!
I only run Iridiums. If I run any thing different I seem to foul the plugs pretty fast. Even with warming the sled up properly etc.
N
Has anyone tried a different temperature range plug on the Pro?
Iridiums as well. Put a new set in every year just cause
G
I run BR8ES`s. Don`t do lake racing.
I run the BPR8eix's .... get them for about $7 each on Amazon.
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S
Fresh set of iridiums at the start of the year.
what # are the irridiums? Does it make the sled start easier (as in not having to pull all the way out to start)
br9eya
Curious... for you guys running the NON-projected tip plugs...Why and what were the results?
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G
Ran Iridiums and originally recommended them but have now determined that they foul out just as fast as BPR9ES standard plugs. No way, no how are they worth the extra money. Back to stock plugs for me (especially after Monday night changing plugs in the dark 15 miles from the rig, on my own, in the Mt Hood Natl Forest!).
Have FUN!
G MAN
Have FUN!
G MAN
For me it work very good ,,, br9eya are not subject to foul, ,,
I turn up oil pump and add some oil in the tank, the br9eya from 800ho are way better when running rich in oil !
W
Have always run champion rn7ycc or what ever they are Just because that was what came in the sled. Have never fouled one in any of my sleds. Switch them out about every couple of years. and that with 30:1 oil setting (but none added to the tank).
What is the reasoning to adding oil to the gas? doesn't all the oil get blown out through the top end eventually any way? not bashing just generally curious.
What is the reasoning to adding oil to the gas? doesn't all the oil get blown out through the top end eventually any way? not bashing just generally curious.
G
I went to the non projected tip plugs when I changed to a low dome head.
Started with the BP's and didn't like the way the way the timing showed on them at 7950 ish and hard to get color to stay near the tip. Then some old memory lit a bulb up and I tried some BY's I had. Then went to plain B's because I had a 1/2 box left from the Zuk's and I liked the look on the plugs better.
I find the standard B's are easier to read "classically" and the light bulb was about flame front.
N
I run the RKT Drop in w 13.5 domes. It's maybe on the high side for the elevation I run (3-7000 ft) I've been wondering if I should run a colder range plug. I asked Kelsey and he said to run stock.
I see Geo you run an "8" heat range plug with the higher compression head. Does the bumped up compression not really matter in 2 strokes? Are the cylinder pressures and temps not as high as 4 strokes? I guess I'm asking at what point in performance mods do we actually need to run a different heat range or insulator nose length?
I found this to be an interesting read...
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/tech-info-spark-plugs.cfm
I see Geo you run an "8" heat range plug with the higher compression head. Does the bumped up compression not really matter in 2 strokes? Are the cylinder pressures and temps not as high as 4 strokes? I guess I'm asking at what point in performance mods do we actually need to run a different heat range or insulator nose length?
I found this to be an interesting read...
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/tech-info-spark-plugs.cfm
G
N2S. I don't run high compression but I did change my head to a different shape with inserts because I am more familiar with (and easier to adjust) working with a low dome instead of the top hat that is stock.
I like trouble free and pump fuel so 135 psi is max for me with today's fuel. Stiil shoot for 40 thou squish plus mechanical "growth" (every engine is different). Over a decade ago my magic # was closer to 155. By 2000 I was needing to use some Av gas. I've always liked to tune on the rich side with a 2 stroke. I rarely have my throttle at WFO for more than 60 sec. I think projected tip plugs are used to compensate for too cold a plug and just stick out in the way. I think every OEM specs the coldest plug it can get away with. I think precious metal electrodes were designed for longevity and are too expensive for me lol.
My pick of heat range comes form viewing the plug. Tip temps can be easily changed with #'s punched into the Boony box but if it is too hot this is where it will show quickly. WFO plug temps are controlled by the plug. If I see big difference in colors down in the fire ring (bottom) I go to a hotter range. Usually you see black on the intake side and the color on the exhaust.
I find it easiest to read the plugs when I get to the correct heat range and there is no porcelain sticking out into the flow path. All I want is the spark in there.
Any plug will work but that's why I use a standard B8ES. Last time I had to use a 10 was a 4 cyl. two stroke that was not used on the street.
I like trouble free and pump fuel so 135 psi is max for me with today's fuel. Stiil shoot for 40 thou squish plus mechanical "growth" (every engine is different). Over a decade ago my magic # was closer to 155. By 2000 I was needing to use some Av gas. I've always liked to tune on the rich side with a 2 stroke. I rarely have my throttle at WFO for more than 60 sec. I think projected tip plugs are used to compensate for too cold a plug and just stick out in the way. I think every OEM specs the coldest plug it can get away with. I think precious metal electrodes were designed for longevity and are too expensive for me lol.
My pick of heat range comes form viewing the plug. Tip temps can be easily changed with #'s punched into the Boony box but if it is too hot this is where it will show quickly. WFO plug temps are controlled by the plug. If I see big difference in colors down in the fire ring (bottom) I go to a hotter range. Usually you see black on the intake side and the color on the exhaust.
I find it easiest to read the plugs when I get to the correct heat range and there is no porcelain sticking out into the flow path. All I want is the spark in there.
Any plug will work but that's why I use a standard B8ES. Last time I had to use a 10 was a 4 cyl. two stroke that was not used on the street.
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