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Arctic Cat: M Series 2005-2011, all models in the M-series chassis
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Old 02-02-2019, 09:42 PM
jim jim is offline
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Default M Series Sidehill Setup

I have an 09 M8 pg turbo with 153. Sled is great and can hang, but is tiring when sidehilling a lot...especially compared to the new stuff. What set up are you guys running to make sidehilling easy? I have gone soft on the pressure for front shocks...but still tougher to hold on sides and initiate technical downhill to uphill turns.
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Old 02-02-2019, 11:52 PM
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Ditch the turbo! Add '19 G2 ProClimb7 or Polaris Gripper skis!
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:37 AM
snownman snownman is offline
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Default sidehilling...

Alternative impact 36" front end will really make it sidehill nice.
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:53 AM
Big10inch Big10inch is offline
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Default

Sell that sled and buy a newer chassis??? I have spent some time recently switching back and forth between a '10 M8 153 and my '17 Mtn Cat 153. The handling is just night and day different. The 10 was a great sled in its day, the 17 is sooooo much easier to ride and my buddies Alpha is that much better than my MC.

There is only so much lipstick you can put on your pig, the best answer is stop stop wasting money on mods, money you can not recover, and invest that in a new sled. There is no set up that will get you to where the newer versions are.
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Old 02-04-2019, 10:03 AM
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Default

I'll agree that there is only SO much you can do to the bath-tub chassis before you are peeing in the wind. I will say that the alt impact 36in front end was a huge help and definatly aided in the sleds sidehilling ability. if you are running powder pro skis I've heard the "carls cut" helps as well. BUT with all this being said my 18 does things I'd never even attempt on my heavily modded 10' M8, so just keep that in mind
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  #6  
Old 02-06-2019, 07:45 PM
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Default

Add up the cost of the following:

Gripper skis
Alt impact 36" front end
Coil rear track shock if you have the snopro float back there
Longer lug track that allows you to move along on a sidehill without having to punch it as much

Those all help. I had every one of them done on my 2010 and can vouch.

It's still going to be an m-series with a really low slung center of gravity though. Rad for steep climbing but you're still putting band aids on a low wide sled. Not saying it's not worth it but just laying out the ways to go about it so you can figure out if it's worth it or not.
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Old 02-07-2019, 12:00 PM
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Default

Thanks guys. For me, I have young kids who I ski with on most days...so I'm only up there 2-3 days/year. New sled makes zero sense now. Turbo is staying (love that thing). And any big spends don't make sense for me.

So, with respect to putting as much lip stick on this pig as I can, what do you guys have for shock pressure settings up front? Rear skid? I do have PowerPros, which helps. Not the Carl's cut though...might hack them up for that. Thanks.
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Old 02-07-2019, 01:04 PM
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Default

If you've got powderpros, no real big need for the grippers. I still like the grippers better in deep stuff but the PPs with the cut are pretty darn good.


I'd say just get the alt impact arms and a coil rear shock and forget about it.


Trust me when I say this though: that rear air shock will never work with that sled. When AC designed those rear ends it was for a coil shock, which means the leverage ratio of the rear arm is somewhat progressive. Air shocks ramp up, especially those older float 1 and 2s. So you're always either getting half the travel or having to sag way too much. The floats are fine everywhere else but not on the rear end of an M-series. You can get the stock 2011 base model shocks for like 100 bucks. Sidehilling aside, that's the single best thing you can do for that sled.
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Old 02-07-2019, 01:07 PM
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My 162 Pro-Lite full of fuel with it's big tank, and my friends lightweight M7 (800 big bore) 162 full of fuel weighed within 7lb of each other on the same scales on the same day. His just felt heavier and did not handle as easily as mine due to geometry and how the weight was carried.

I personally do not like running low pressures in the front shocks. Especially on the M-series. It may make the sled feel like it's rolling easier initially, but puts the front end too low to the ground once it's up on edge: makes it push through the snow, not absorb bumps well since there is not enough stroke left, and require more effort to make it change directions. Think about what it feels like to balance a full 55 gallon barrel on it's edge and move around.

On the M1000 it helped to drill the front arm mount 3/4" lower in the tunnel. Helped lift the heavy front end and feel lighter. Holes were already in the reinforcement bracket inside the tunnel. Just had to drill them through.
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Old 02-07-2019, 05:42 PM
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:00 AM
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Old 02-08-2019, 08:21 AM
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:51 AM
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:54 AM
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Old 02-08-2019, 10:47 AM
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Old 02-08-2019, 01:21 PM
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:42 PM
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Old 02-08-2019, 03:50 PM
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Old 02-08-2019, 04:35 PM
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Old 02-09-2019, 09:11 AM
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Old 02-09-2019, 03:15 PM
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:35 PM
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