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Polaris: Pro-Ride 2010 and up, all models in the Pro-Ride chassis
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  #1  
Old 08-18-2012, 10:43 AM
Oregonsledder Oregonsledder is offline
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Default Oil pump adjustment.... revisited

The oil pump adjustment topic has been one of the hotter ones over the last year. I for one have until now, subscribed to the turn up the pump 3 turns (believing that it would increase the flow rate over the entire throttle range). Recently, there has been a post or two saying that adjusting the pump set screw only changes the flow rate at idle and nothing else. There was no explanation as to why it only changed the idle oil flow rate so I thought I would try to think about that as a possibility and try to understand and then explain it.

Here goes. On most other older sleds, you adjust the oil pump by adjusting the cable that splits off from the throttle cable. There is no set screw, just a cable adjustment to align the point on the oil pump arm and the oil pump body scribe mark. The cable will have two jam nuts that allow for this lengthening or shorting of the cable to align the marks.

On the PRO, the adjustment set screw just determines where the oil pump arm pointer and pump body scribe align. The only way to increase oil flow over the range of the arm swing, would be to shorten the cable thus, effecting the end (wide open/max flow) rate as well. Think of it this way... on older Mikuni rack carbs you adjust the idle (where the slide rests) by adjusting the idle slide stop screw. You adjust the wide open position of the slide with the cable adjuster. This is the same principle at play. Unless there is a way to shorten the oil pump cable you cannot change the oil flow rate and mid range or wide open throttle. Another difference in the PRO pump operation, is that in older sleds the pump arm spring would force the pump to max flow rate if the cable was to break, I have seen a few in my shop with a broken cable and they usually immediately foul the plugs and stall, or at least burn an excess of oil. On the PRO the spring forces the oil pump arm towards minimum flow and that’s why there is a set screw to set the min or idle flow rate.... in other words, a pump arm stop.

Additional proof for my hypothesis is, in the service manual for the PRO it explains how to prime the oil pump to remove any air from the oil lines. You are to use a wire/coat hanger and pull the pump arm all the way up (max flow) while the engine is at idle. So my conclusion is that the pump output is mostly determined by arm position relative to the pump body and less effected by engine rpm. If you want more oil over the entire throttle range, you have to be able to adjust the cable.

I will still add oil, 1 ounce per gallon just to be sure I’m getting adequate engine oiling.

I hope this helps a little and doesn't confuse more than it helps.

I also welcome any one who can prove that adjusting the pump set screw has any affect on oil pump flow rate off idle. Saying that oil tank usage increased after adjusting the set screw won’t convince me, I adjusted mine 3 turns and didn’t see any change in usage.

Last edited by Oregonsledder; 08-18-2012 at 12:01 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-18-2012, 12:41 PM
Matte Murder Matte Murder is offline
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So are you going to adjust your cable? Are you sure adjusting your cable will actually increase oil flow? My 12 used exactly 1 gallon of oil for 500 miles. Half or less than the Ski Doos I rode on the same day/times.
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Old 08-18-2012, 12:47 PM
Oregonsledder Oregonsledder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matte Murder View Post
So are you going to adjust your cable? Are you sure adjusting your cable will actually increase oil flow? My 12 used exactly 1 gallon of oil for 500 miles. Half or less than the Ski Doos I rode on the same day/times.
I have not yet figured out a way to adjust the cable/rod, there isn't any adjuster on the rod/cable that I know of. I suspect the EPA has encouraged Polaris to make the oil systems work this way so it isn't easy to adjust the oil flow. Guys who are saying that they have seen an increase in oil consumption after adjusting the oil pump set screw are seeing more consumption due to snow conditions.... I suspect. You will use more oil per mile in the deep than on firm snow, so watching the oil tank level and then the odometer is not very exact.
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:21 PM
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Uhmm...oregon, the oil pump arm/linkage..is hooked to the throttle shafts thru the screw adjuster..when you adjust that..it does change the oil pump travel..in other words you are changing the oil pump arm position relative to the throttle shafts, and when you move the shafts it moves the arm..thus varying the amount of oil the motor gets...
5.If adjustment is required, locate the oil pump linkage adjuster on the throttle body. Open and release the throttle several times to verify throttle plates are closed.
6.Loosen the adjuster jam nut. Using an Allen wrench, turn the adjuster screw clockwise to raise the oil pump lever arm. Turn the screw counter-clockwise to lower the oil pump lever arm.
7.Visually inspect the lever notch/scribe mark alignment. When in alignment, tighten the jam nut without moving the adjuster screw.
Oil Pump Adjustment Settings
PART NUMBER
ARM MARKING
LEVER SETTING
25210001204439
600B Linkage Adjustment
Set lever notch in-line with oil pump scribe mark.
12043631204438
800BLinkage Adjustment
CAUTION
Failure to properly set the oil pump lever arm may cause severe engine damage.
LINK
AGE ARMOIL SUPPLYLEVER NOTCHSCRIBE MARK
CAUTION
The oil pump lever and pump boss marks must be observed straight-on to yield accurate results.
LOOK THROUGH THIS OPENING
J
AM NUTADJUSTER SCREW
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:57 PM
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AK i will take your word for it, as I have yet to have a PRO engine on my bench where I can get a real good look at the pump. From what I can see with the can removed using a mirror and flashlight, and the shop manual which you quote above.... I can't see how adjusting the set screw can effect the entire range. I guess Carl's and some others and I just don't get it?? LOL
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:03 PM
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take and get it where you can look at it..when you move the throttle..its moving your adjuster as well..thus moving the pump arm..so any change in the adjuster moves the arm..both at idle and at throttle....easy way to see it...pull the seat and the tank bolts..loosen the shroud and slide the tank back..then pop the airbox and you can see it pretty good...
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKSNOWRIDER View Post
take and get it where you can look at it..when you move the throttle..its moving your adjuster as well..thus moving the pump arm..so any change in the adjuster moves the arm..both at idle and at throttle....easy way to see it...pull the seat and the tank bolts..loosen the shroud and slide the tank back..then pop the airbox and you can see it pretty good...
The easy way???? LOL
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:50 PM
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At a certain point the lever arm opens the oil flow fully yet can continue past that point the same as carb slides are wide open while you can still adjust the slides higher with zero effect on WOT. I posted about this originally and will stand by my statement that turning up the oil screw is just wasting oil at the lower rpm range and that you NEED to add more oil to the tank.

Have FUN!

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Old 08-18-2012, 03:01 PM
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There seems to be as many opinions as posters, but one thing is for sure.... if you add oil to the tank it will be burnt. I will dig deeper into this issue but for now I still can’t see how adjusting the adjuster set screw can add oil at any point other than at idle.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:53 PM
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:37 AM
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:22 AM
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Old 08-19-2012, 09:10 AM
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Old 08-19-2012, 09:56 AM
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:15 AM
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:30 PM
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Old 08-20-2012, 12:33 AM
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Old 08-20-2012, 12:52 AM
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Old 08-20-2012, 01:12 PM
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Old 08-20-2012, 03:19 PM
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Old 08-20-2012, 03:24 PM
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:18 PM
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:06 PM
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:26 PM
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:44 PM
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