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Snow-Bike Specific Fork Build

K
Feb 22, 2016
208
65
28
Belgrade MT
So I have decided to build a set of forks that will be winter specific, after some research and asking a few guys I have decided to run the open chamber wp fork. My question to all of you does anyone have any further tips and info in regards to the open chamber forks, spring rate/ valving etc...

Thanks
 
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byeatts

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Premium Member
Nov 29, 2007
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So I have decided to build a set of forks that will be winter specific, after some research and asking a few guys I have decided to run the open chamber wp fork. My question to all of you does anyone have any further tips and info in regards to the open chamber forks, spring rate/ valving etc...

Thanks

.62 or .64 for big guys and change to heavy weight oil. it will work well without re valve. The heavy wt oil will slow compression a bunch.
 

tillbuilt

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Lifetime Membership
Dec 4, 2007
628
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Henderson, Co.
Here at RMS MX we build a lot of forks for the KTM guys.
Last season we built over 20 sets of rider and bike specific WP replacement forks. Most of the riders were either replacing 4CS's,
or ARE forks. The closed chamber set of forks are currently $1200 and the open chamber forks are $1000. That pricing includes a set of fully rebuilt forks that are inspected and refurbished, the springs will be custom made and wound to your specific riding style and weight. They will also be custom valved for RMS MX snow bike specs. It will even include the axle.

You could buy a used set off of Ebay and take the risk of having a damaged tube of something, and then have to spend $350 on a new tube. Then rebuild them, and after that, guess as to what springs you need, and have someone take a shot at valving them. Or you could just pick up the phone and give us a call and we will provide you with the best front end you could have on your snow bike.

Most guys like having one set of snow forks, and one set of dirt forks.

Rocky Mountain Snow MX 720-263-7533

Toby


So I have decided to build a set of forks that will be winter specific, after some research and asking a few guys I have decided to run the open chamber wp fork. My question to all of you does anyone have any further tips and info in regards to the open chamber forks, spring rate/ valving etc...

Thanks
 
K
Feb 22, 2016
208
65
28
Belgrade MT
Here at RMS MX we build a lot of forks for the KTM guys.
Last season we built over 20 sets of rider and bike specific WP replacement forks. Most of the riders were either replacing 4CS's,
or ARE forks. The closed chamber set of forks are currently $1200 and the open chamber forks are $1000. That pricing includes a set of fully rebuilt forks that are inspected and refurbished, the springs will be custom made and wound to your specific riding style and weight. They will also be custom valved for RMS MX snow bike specs. It will even include the axle.

You could buy a used set off of Ebay and take the risk of having a damaged tube of something, and then have to spend $350 on a new tube. Then rebuild them, and after that, guess as to what springs you need, and have someone take a shot at valving them. Or you could just pick up the phone and give us a call and we will provide you with the best front end you could have on your snow bike.

Most guys like having one set of snow forks, and one set of dirt forks.

Rocky Mountain Snow MX 720-263-7533

Toby

Thanks Toby,

I will keep you guys in mind, I got a real smoking deal on a set of used forks and I would like to see what I all have when they come in.
 

tillbuilt

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 4, 2007
628
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Henderson, Co.
If they look good and you want to ship them to us to do our valving and springs, you can. We charge $250 for valving and $199 for springs.

If you would like us to just send you custom springs you can give us a call and we will help get you the right size. They are $199.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Oct 5, 2010
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……..
If they look good and you want to ship them to us to do our valving and springs, you can. We charge $250 for valving and $199 for springs.

If you would like us to just send you custom springs you can give us a call and we will help get you the right size. They are $199.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So if I have 2 sets of SSS forks and I want both to match a 180# guy......
Could i buy one set of the heaviest springs that will fit and run the stock 14yz450f spring in the other tube?
 

tillbuilt

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 4, 2007
628
534
93
51
Henderson, Co.
Sow Bike Specific Fork Build

So if I have 2 sets of SSS forks and I want both to match a 180# guy......

Could i buy one set of the heaviest springs that will fit and run the stock 14yz450f spring in the other tube?



No, you need the same spring rate in both forks so the front end works correctly.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Sheetmetalfab

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Oct 5, 2010
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No, you need the same spring rate in both forks for the front end works correctly.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is that why single function forks don't work as well?
Don't they have rebound in one fork and compression in the other?

Binding in the seals/ slide bushings?
 
E
Dec 19, 2007
1,041
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I use dedicated open chambers on all my bikes including one set of the old 43mm oc from the old days. I had to build custom axle spacers but they are almost free and work great.

Springs make them ride higher. Oil height and valving keeps them from bottoming. If you don't ride in ice you can revalve yourself and add tons of extra oil with no down side.

I added so much oil they would stop about an inch above the ski clamps then i drained about 30cc out from the bottom. That alone will be enough for most people.

If you want to revalve get about 10 to 20 of the 24mm shims from oem, race tech or mxtech. To do a quick revalve compress the fork as far as you can with a tie down strap, lay the bike over and put a bucket under the ski so it's higher than the bars. Then ratchet out the base valve and no oil should come out.

Take the nut off the bv and just build a shim stack with all 24mm's. Stock will have 5 or so already in there. No taper..no tiny ones in between just use all the same diameter. Try 15 on each side. Then add or delete to your prefrence. Don't be afraid to turn the clicker all the way in before you decide to add more shims. Snow forks can be valved crazy stiffer than dirt because we don't have to worry about being plush in rocks or breaking bumps. Easy as pie compared to tuning for mx....

Keeping the shims all the same makes it easy to quantify the change one shim will make. I'm not crazy it really works. The skidoo snocross race manual says exactly the same method of valving the sled shocks on the mxzx race sleds.
 
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S
Mar 28, 2014
44
8
8
Airpro

How heavy of a rider are you? send me a message! we can figure out a real cost effective way to manage your fork issue. by using the same fork you run in the summer we can use the same fork in the winter. cost is way cheaper than revalving and heavier springs! AIRPRO I am a rep/dealer get you a sweet deal!
 

dooman92

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Mar 1, 2010
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Airpro

I second the Airpro option. As little as 5lbs makes a noticeable difference.
 
K
Feb 22, 2016
208
65
28
Belgrade MT
How heavy of a rider are you? send me a message! we can figure out a real cost effective way to manage your fork issue. by using the same fork you run in the summer we can use the same fork in the winter. cost is way cheaper than revalving and heavier springs! AIRPRO I am a rep/dealer get you a sweet deal!

I actually have the airpro, and althought your companies costomer service is fantastic and I think the product is great it still seemed to be to soft, Now i will say I have an XC-F and the forks are SOFT. My buddy got airpro for his Yzf 450 and it worked absolutly fantastic.
 
R
Apr 18, 2016
257
109
43
Not sure what you ended up with, I used springs from cannonracecraft in the .7 zone forget the exact number. I'm a big boy so went as stiff as we could go with the wire size I could fit...still had to grind the guides. I loosened up my compression stack because the spring rate is so stiff I didn't feel like I needed it. I slowed down my rebound a bunch so it wasn't a pogo stick. I'm on an old steel framed Cr500af and ride with guys on 2016 Ktm' with yeti kits and air pro's and custom bla bla and mine worked as well or better. Mine doesn't bottom on the big hits and I rail trail as fast as the thing will go. Oil level I raised 10mm over stock to resist bottoming but stayed with a light fluid and added some shims to the rebound stack to slow it up. I like it and my front end doesn't bottom or dig like everything else I have seen.
 
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