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Need a Tundra Yoda....

Trashy

⚙️
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 10, 2003
69,547
7,297
113
Sherwood Park, Ab, Canada
Hi all,
I'm fixing up a '98 Tundra R for my 11 year old to ride as a first sled... Anything I need to know? Anyone else do this?
I was kinda wondering about the lack of a choke... all its got is a primer...
Maybe we need a work sled section in the 'Doo forum? :face-icon-small-ton
 
E
Nov 20, 2009
19
0
1
SLC, Utah
My 670 has a primer, and I like it. I never have trouble starting, but I have developed my starting ritual over the years. When the engine is cold, I open the hood and pump the primer until I see the fuel in the lines get all the way to the carbs. Takes between 5 and 10 pumps, roughly. When the fuel makes it to the carbs, I give it one full pump of the primer, pull the primer back so it's ready to to push in again when the motor starts, and pull the starter rope. It usually pops the first time and dies quick, then somewhere between the 2nd and 4th pulls it catches and runs long enough for me to hit the primer about 1/4 of the way again to keep it running. I keep it running with the primer till it gets responsive to the throttle, about 1 min or so.

If the engine has been run, but has cooled enough it doesn't want to fire right up, 1/4 hit off the primer gets it going with no more fuss. Course, you gotta pump until the fuel gets to the carbs first. After a bit you can feel when the primer starts pushing fuel, so you don't have to open the hood to watch so much. :)
 
8

800HMRK

New member
Dec 17, 2007
134
4
18
Alaska
I have a 96 tundra and if it is cold out I usually prime it 5 or 6 times and it most always starts on the first pull. Then like said above just prime it when it starts to die, usually only takes mine 1 or 2 primes before it stays running on it's own. They are great beginner sleds for youngsters.
 
S
Dec 1, 2007
120
9
18
Hi there, I have 3 tundras and my family has about 10 in total, they are a good little machine but they have some problems.

#1 get rid of the oiler right away, it is junk and i have seen lots of engine damage caused when the plastic drive shaft snaps. It is super easy to remove and sled burns so little gas that mixing it is not a big deal.

#2 junk the sock belt and run a max 2 belt, the stock one is too hard and slips, belt tension is adjusted by tilting the chain case

Heat tape the tool box if it hasn't already melted by the pipe.

Starting is not a problem even down to -40 but you will need to prime it a few times to keep it going.

If you want to spend the money a set of plastic skis is a huge improvement.

Hope this helps
 
S
Dec 1, 2007
120
9
18
Ok the oiler delete step by step.

#1 un screw the pump off the recoil housing and pull the pump shaft out.

#2 take the short intake manifold off and either stuff something in the oil hose on the underside or pull the nipple out and tap the hole for a screw.

#3 Snip off the cable that goes to the oil pump at the splitter.

#4 unbolt the strap that goes over the oil tank and air box, this will take a really long extension with a 10mm deep socket. Once the strap is gone just grab the whole mess and toss it, there is no need to undo the big oil line and make a mess.

# 5 if you like you can shorten the strap that goes over the airbox and put it back on but I don't cause it makes it easier to get the carb out for jeting changes. Don't forget to mix your gas ant 50;1 now.
 
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