I just had a thought

cjgodden · Sep 8, 2009

If the discussion in the ratcheting thread is true and the track skipping on the drivers may be caused from the track being to tight, then would it not make since that the issues we have seen with the TLS clutch plates breaking, cog belts getting chewed up, driveshaft breakage, are all related to the suspension geometry being off and the track getting tighter during the travel of the suspension.

Discuss.

roo · Sep 9, 2009

I would bet "yes" on your theory!

cjgodden said:
If the discussion in the ratcheting thread is true and the track skipping on the drivers may be caused from the track being to tight, then would it not make since that the issues we have seen with the TLS clutch plates breaking, cog belts getting chewed up, driveshaft breakage, are all related to the suspension geometry being off and the track getting tighter during the travel of the suspension.

Discuss.

makes sense!

RudeAwakening · Sep 9, 2009

i concour

TLKDPROD · Sep 9, 2009

Totally.

Problems with the TLS slipping all the time could also be too much load applied to the system from wet snow conditions or super deep snow, on top of track being/getting too tight.

Snapped in between the drivers driveshaft like Rudeawakening's, is directly related to track getting too tight... and a guy who's the equivalent of two !

cjgodden · Sep 9, 2009

I just think that its kinda mess up that alot of problems we are having are directly related to rear suspension geometry. It also brings home the fact that fixing the rear suspension is A MUST DO. As you may be able to avoid some really expensive failure's. I will still keep the chain drive, as it is a bullet proof system and now that the real work is done to convert over its cheaper to replace chain and sprockets than the cog belt.

snowhawkaddict · Sep 10, 2009

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxwNLxy5_8A

Now you just got to take your Mother in-Law sky diving!

Sent from down below!VVVVVVVV

:devil:

off road rider · Sep 10, 2009

cjgodden said:
I just think that its kinda mess up that alot of problems we are having are directly related to rear suspension geometry. It also brings home the fact that fixing the rear suspension is A MUST DO. As you may be able to avoid some really expensive failure's. I will still keep the chain drive, as it is a bullet proof system and now that the real work is done to convert over its cheaper to replace chain and sprockets than the cog belt.

I like the idea of a chain drive for gearing changes if nothing else.. imagine riding the mountains one weekend geared down then hitting some open areas at another time gearing up for 100 mph.. not sure how practical that scenario is, but having the option would be bittcn..

IbBroken · Sep 11, 2009

I geared my hawk up for last year and have a 1.857 ratio from a 2.14 ratio I did not notice any loss on the bottom end but top end was big. This is the set up I had at Hawk fest and i plan on staying with this new ratio until I go 144" or larger on my track. And yes it is nice to be able to play with our gear ratio. Plus I just tore down my hawk and the chain looks great with over two seasons on it.:beer;

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I just had a thought

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