Stop Ride Brake Fix - anyone ridden a sled with the update yet?

[provoyager]

So I got my 2022 Khaos Matryx Slash 155 back 2 weeks ago for the brake overheating reflash and I had all of the other recalls done back in October. I hadn't been able to ride until this weekend and I had a few things go wrong. 1. I'm getting a check engine light for P3036: EV Actuator Check Failure. 2. My gauge now occasionally loses connection and gets no reading from any of the inputs. This happens when I turn off the sled by the kill switch and keep the sled on and then restart it... not all the time, but quite often. It also happened a couple of times just while riding. 3. My fuel gauge is now completely off. It was really accurate last year and the other day I filled the tank and it said 60%, then it bounced around down to 50 to 55, back down to 4-45 then low fuel warning... just all over the place. I got back and it took just over 5 gallons to fill and it still showed 60% again. 4. It ran hot at first. It's always run really cool, like 100-110ish under the conditions. It was hardpack trails but I had scratchers on and it go pretty darn hot and had to stop to let it cool down. It eventually ran cooler but still not back to where it was all last year.

I dropped it off at the dealer Monday morning and I should have it back by Friday as long as it doesn't need any parts that are on backorder. Haven't heard otherwise yet so hoping they get it figured out.

JP

Is your gauge the standard or the 7s?

 

[jeremyp111]

Is your gauge the standard or the 7s?

It's the 7S display and it never had any issues at all until they touched it. And the CEL didn't affect performance at all... just the annoying light on the dash.
I'm just hoping these things get resolved... it's certainly ridable but just really annoying to have a fuel gauge that is useless and have the gauges not work intermittently.

13 years on Polaris sleds and this is the first one to give me problems since my 2007 IQ 600 blew a piston over a decade ago.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

The CEL and the code don't affect performance. It's an annoyance is all.

Mine went maximum det and limp mode.

Unridable after a halfazz reflash without relearns.

Might have to browbeat the dealer a little.

Ruined an epic day.

 

[nordicmike]

make sure they relearn your power valves, still not sure how thats connected to my brake but im no engineer

 

[diamonddave]

Mine went maximum det and limp mode.

Unridable after a halfazz reflash without relearns.

Might have to browbeat the dealer a little.

Ruined an epic day.

View attachment 399096

SMF is correct. Some sleds will be affected and run horribly and sound horrible. Some won’t.

 

[jeremyp111]

What does the whole 'relearn the powervalves' entail and what problems will I see if it wasn't done? If I mention this to the dealer, will they know what I'm talking about?

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

 

[Chadly]

View attachment 399098View attachment 399099

69!!!?

 

[ndfb35]

69!!!?

Nice!

 

[jeremyp111]

I just got back from picking up my sled from the dealer and they fixed all of the issues. You guys were spot on re: the relearn function. They completed the relearn and that fixed the EV Actuator Check Failure code. They also seemed to solve the input connection issue as well. They unplugged all connections, cleaned and resecured. Hopefully that solves it. If not, there is a Polaris case # to replace the 7S Display if necessary. Lastly, they also fixed the fuel gauge issue. They pulled the assembly from the tank and found that it was hung up and not operating freely. All seems to be good...just hoping the 7S Display issues don't pop back up again. Polaris admitted that the connections quite often fixes the problem but some it has been due to a bad display and it's on backorder at the moment. Snow is coming and I'm heading up tomorrow for a couple days so I'll be able to give it a thorough test.

 

[JohnSessa]

After doing the updates, my check engine light would show on the display occasionally while technical riding in deep snow. No other warnings or codes would show up. And no limp mode.
The light would go off when I’d turn off the sled and display. I’m guessing it’s because I ride with a finger on the brake at all times. I think I need to disconnect the brake light/cable.
How and where do you disconnect the brake light?

 

[zaasman]

How and where do you disconnect the brake light?

Three options:

• Follow the brake light wire 4 or 5 inches down from the master cylinder, there's an inline plug behind the cable sheathing.
• That same wire runs into the connector bag located above the clutch cover, can unplug it there.
• Pull the brake light fuse in the load center under the hood.

 

[Pickin’ Boogers]

I've triggered the limp mode several times now. It's annoying at least, and could cause serious problems at the wrong moment.

Mechanically, my brakes are fine. The pads don't bind and the jackshaft rotates with minimal drag. I have a fair amount of movement in the lever before it engages the brake.

The problem for me is in the switch. There's no room to spare - as soon as I touch the lever, the switch disengages. This happens well before the brake engages.

I'm looking into modding the switch itself. If anyone has a solution already worked out, please share. I've been riding with the wires disconnected but I'm sure my riding partners would appreciate seeing my brake light.

 

[tdorval]

This wasn’t an issue for me until riding deep powder on a cold day. I was having icing issues not allowing the brake lever to return 100% to its rest position. Hadn’t been an issue prior to those conditions but it’s a problem in that scenario for myself. Going to look at a few options.

 

[ndfb35]

I had the same problems with my switch sticking this weekend in bumper deep snow with Temps in the single digits. It was not enjoyable and it took me a long time to work it free.

 

[PSI 800]

I've triggered the limp mode several times now. It's annoying at least, and could cause serious problems at the wrong moment.

Mechanically, my brakes are fine. The pads don't bind and the jackshaft rotates with minimal drag. I have a fair amount of movement in the lever before it engages the brake.

The problem for me is in the switch. There's no room to spare - as soon as I touch the lever, the switch disengages. This happens well before the brake engages.

I'm looking into modding the switch itself. If anyone has a solution already worked out, please share. I've been riding with the wires disconnected but I'm sure my riding partners would appreciate seeing my brake light.

grind down your lever some, i did mine and no issues

 

[line8]

Since its been talked about carrying deicer for the throttle, I suppose a quick spray of the deicer on the brake switch if its iced up could work the same.


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[Pickin’ Boogers]

grind down your lever some, i did mine and no issues

The lever already has play, no need to grind it further. The problem is the switch.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Rode one of the deepest days in years. Below 0 second half of the day.

Burnt 17 gallons of gas. Never had the brake shut me down. Ride with finger on lever from sled deck till its loaded again. My sled has a super touchy lever too.

I will say thr 23 mapping definstely cleans up thr boost runability??

 

[Steep&DeepRider]

Had mine out on a 4-day trip to Crooked Creek and had the break fault go off once on my sled. Didn't realize I was riding the break with my finger enough to actuate it. Slide went into limp mode. Pulled over, shut it off, started it back up was good to go....

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